Clutch pedal all the way to the floor, bleeding it repeatably, within minutes pressure gone and air in lines. replaced master cylinder. what do i need to do and where can i get a diagram for clutch cylinder

Faulty throw out bearing.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models

1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
   CAUTION
   While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
   
5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)

1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
   WARNING
   Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
   
4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.

Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)

1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
   CAUTION
   Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
   
5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.
   
   
   Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
   
6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

bleed master cylinder first then slave

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

It's a matter of bleeding the clutch system completely. You do need to make sure you don't ,have any leaks at the Clutch Master Cyl. or at the Clutch Slave Cyl or the line running between both, and that you don't have clutch fluid in the drivers compartment just below where the clutch rod comes through the firewall. That would of course mean you have to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder due to internal leakage.

This isn't so unusual, you'll have to pull up on the pedal by hand & pump it a few times to get pressure enough to properly bleed the system, or, you will have to start with bleeding the Clutch Master Cyl. first by loosening the line there & have someone push down the pedal, then before letting up on the pedal, tighten the line to prevent air from being drawn in. Repeat two times to get any air out here.

If your parts and lines are all in good shape then re-fill the resivoir & have someone to pull up on the clutch by hand if needed & then if necessary, use their hand to depress & pull the pedal a few times to try & build some pressure so that you can bleed the Clutch slave cylinder a few times to get all of the air out. After you've finished bleeding the system, the pedal should stay in the up position except when being depressed and you should have consistently even pressure when using the clutch.

good luck.

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Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

you need to bleed master & slave cyl master dont hold much fluid must bleed similar like brks when when starts coming out of bleeder close bleeder let sit couple of minutes air travel top of master pump pedal more repeat pumping pedal air residue will work it self out

When you fixed the brakes, did you take the lid off the master cylinder. I just wonder if you spilled out your brake fluid. The only reason the pedal should go to the floor is if the brake fluid is gone or the master cylinder is not working. Check the fuse. Check the brake fluid level. The pedal only goes to the floor if there is no back pressure in the lines between the master cylinder the lines to the brake pistion on the calipers. Please give me a good ratin and keep me informed.

You have air in the system, Keep the reservoir full, attach a hose to the bleed screw the other end of the hose in a small clean jar. Open the bleed screw, push the clutch pedal to the floor, close the bleed screw, repeat over and over till you are getting fluid and NO bubbles. do not reuse the brake fluid. When the bubbles are gone your clutch will work.

Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes. You'd pump the clutch pedal several times to get the pressure up, and then open the bleeder on the slave cylinder (mounted down on the transmission). Repeat and add fluid as needed until no air comes out.

Two things - first off, some cars have more than one bleed point (the Nissan 300ZX is one of those), so be sure there is only the slave cylinder to bleed. Second, if it went right to the floor, something failed - either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. Changing the slave is relatively easy - usually two bolts and it comes off, you put on a new one, and bleed it as described above. Often the slave cylinder is less than $30, so it's worth it to try changing it if you can't get the pedal to come back off the floor on its own. A clutch master is significantly more expensive and more difficult to change, so start cheap and easy and replace the slave cylinder if you can't pump the pedal to get pressure built up for a bleed.