Question about 1997 Ford Escort
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking
These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.
Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
SOURCE: timing belt
You obviously need to replace your TPS, and you may need a new belt tensioner as well. On these cars the timing belt setup is not about no 1 cylinder being top dead center. Here are the proper steps to do a timing belt on this vehicle:
To change the timing belt first place the right side of the vehicle on a jack stand and remove the right front tire. Remove the plastic cover inside the wheel well to expose the harmonic balancer. Remove the serpentine belt (standard 3/8" rachet will set in the belt tensioner to relieve tension). Remove the harmonic balancer (19mm). Place a jack under the engine on the right side of the vehicle, then remove the engine mount from the top of the fender well, (17mm deep well socket and 17mm wrench required) it is not necessary to remove the mount from the side of the engine. Remove the timing cover, (10mm) it has 2 nuts. Loosen the timing belt tensioner, (10mm) then pry it away to relieve the tension. Slide the timing belt off of the cam gear.
To position the new belt, the cam gear has a arrow on it, and the cylinder head has a small dot. Align the arrow with dot, and make sure it is aligned (the arrow must point up). The crank gear has a notch and the engine has a groove to align the notch. Again, make sure the notch and groove are aligned (they again will be up). Place the new timing belt in position around the crank gear, the water pump and belt tensioner and leave the slack at the top. Again relieve any tension from the belt tensioner, and slide the belt on to the cam gear. Place a slight bit of tension on the belt and tighten the belt tensioner. Use the 19mm bolt from the harmonic balancer and turn the engine 2 complete turns and verify that the cam gear and crank gear are in their proper positions and aligned with the dots and notches. After 2 complete turns of the engine, and verifying everything is still aligned, re-assemble in reverse. No further adjustment is necessary.
Note:There is no timing adjustment for this vehicle, and if you are not properly aligned on the cam gear and crank gear it will not run properly.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
SOURCE: 04 ford ranger rod bearing
Your vehicle timing chain jumped a sprocket
spinning a bearing means that the bearing does not get enough oil between it and, it's rod; causing the "babbet" a soft slippery metal lining the bearing; to heat up and, weld it's self to the crankshaft or. piston rod
Posted on May 20, 2009
If the torque converter failed to that extent the truck would not move. Most ford converter's have a drain plug. If yours does drain it and see if any bearings or bearing remains come out. Even still, a blown torque converter on a stock production engine won't break the crank.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
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