Question about 1997 Ford Escort

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2.0 SOHC. Motor had a knock in the bottom end. It spun a rob bearing. Everything on the crank was polished out and I had the rods fixed and I put new bearing all through the bottom end. I replaced the timing belt while i had it out and apart. I made sure all marks for timing and oil were lined back up. I got everything back together and back in the car. I cranked the car and it sounded fine but when you put the car in gear it sounds like a knock coming from the valve cover. I did not mess with any of the valve setting or anything. My local machine shop says that something could be binded. Im not sure where to start with this problem. Any ideas or thoughts?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking

These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.

  • Remove the cylinder head.Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  • Drain the engine oil.
    Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
    Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
    Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
    Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
    One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
    After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
    The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
    When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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SOURCE: timing belt

You obviously need to replace your TPS, and you may need a new belt tensioner as well. On these cars the timing belt setup is not about no 1 cylinder being top dead center. Here are the proper steps to do a timing belt on this vehicle:

To change the timing belt first place the right side of the vehicle on a jack stand and remove the right front tire. Remove the plastic cover inside the wheel well to expose the harmonic balancer. Remove the serpentine belt (standard 3/8" rachet will set in the belt tensioner to relieve tension). Remove the harmonic balancer (19mm). Place a jack under the engine on the right side of the vehicle, then remove the engine mount from the top of the fender well, (17mm deep well socket and 17mm wrench required) it is not necessary to remove the mount from the side of the engine. Remove the timing cover, (10mm) it has 2 nuts. Loosen the timing belt tensioner, (10mm) then pry it away to relieve the tension. Slide the timing belt off of the cam gear.

To position the new belt, the cam gear has a arrow on it, and the cylinder head has a small dot. Align the arrow with dot, and make sure it is aligned (the arrow must point up). The crank gear has a notch and the engine has a groove to align the notch. Again, make sure the notch and groove are aligned (they again will be up). Place the new timing belt in position around the crank gear, the water pump and belt tensioner and leave the slack at the top. Again relieve any tension from the belt tensioner, and slide the belt on to the cam gear. Place a slight bit of tension on the belt and tighten the belt tensioner. Use the 19mm bolt from the harmonic balancer and turn the engine 2 complete turns and verify that the cam gear and crank gear are in their proper positions and aligned with the dots and notches. After 2 complete turns of the engine, and verifying everything is still aligned, re-assemble in reverse. No further adjustment is necessary.

Note:There is no timing adjustment for this vehicle, and if you are not properly aligned on the cam gear and crank gear it will not run properly.




Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 218 Answers

SOURCE: '93 Chev Suburban engine knock, sounds like rod

MAKE SURE THE CRANKSHAFT IS NO DAMAGED.IF IT IS THE NEW BEARINGS WILL GO BAD QUICKLY

Posted on May 06, 2009

jmgldsmth
  • 1889 Answers

SOURCE: 04 ford ranger rod bearing

Your vehicle timing chain jumped a sprocket
spinning a bearing means that the bearing does not get enough oil between it and, it's rod; causing the "babbet" a soft slippery metal lining the bearing; to heat up and, weld it's self to the crankshaft or. piston rod

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: In need an immediate answer if someone can help.

If the torque converter failed to that extent the truck would not move. Most ford converter's have a drain plug. If yours does drain it and see if any bearings or bearing remains come out. Even still, a blown torque converter on a stock production engine won't break the crank.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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I have a 2001 cadilac deville that has a wicked knock in the engine. it is a rod knock (from the sound) so i figure my options are to change the engine, or change the rod ect. I wanna know if the engine...


Thats going to be a tricky pull. you can actually do BOTH methods fro pulling that motor. Which ever is easier for you would be better.

As far as the rod knock. Rod knock simply means that the rod bearing has spun and is no longer a smooth surface. potentially, you could pull the motor and replace just that rod and bearing if the crankshaft was unaffected. the majority of the time, more work needs to be done. I think in this case, it may be cheaper to remove the motor and replace the crank and bearings. A replacement used motor will probably run about 1k if you can find one at a yard.

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Spun bearing


You are up for an engine rebuild. Remove the engine and turn up side down in a stand. Remove the sump and find the failed bearing by taking off the big end caps. If you find a con rod damaged you will have to remove the head and that piston and replace the con rod. If it is a main bearing that has spun you should only have to replace the crank shaft and fit new bearing shells Either way you will need another crank shaft. Check the price of a low mileage engine from a wrecker as it will be quicker and possible cheaper in the long run

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It sounds like i have a rod knock but if i jack up the transmission the sound goes away what could be the problem? and what could i do to fix it?


If it sounds like a rod knock it probably is. jacking the transmission is probably putting more oil under the rod. supressing the sound. The fix is a remanned crank and bearings, that is if one of the bearings hasn't spun on you. Cost if you do the work is around $300.00
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Being able to turn the engine just means that it is not seized up yet, but there can still be a spun rod bearing or crank bearing, and the engine will still turn over until it seizes up.

If the engine is full of engine oil and it is making a loud knocking sound, especially from the lower end of the engine (sounds like someone is swinging around a ball peen hammer inside of the engine), then it will most likely be needing a new engine very soon.

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Uhh there are no rods in the head. That dealer has a loose rod in his head maybe.
The crank, rods and pistons are all in the bottom end of the engine.
What it likely is is either a broken piston skirt or a spun rod bearing.
Spun crank bearings are rare and sound deep.
A spun rod bearing can be fairly quiet on idle depending how bad it is worn out, but it will be really loud on acceleration. Piston slap from a broken skirt can be pretty loud too but it mostly sounds like diesel rattle only a bit less. Some have described it as a loud pinging sound like detonation.
Drain the oil and check for metal debri. If you can tilt the vehicle a bit for the oil to drain more towards the drain hole that could help. Then look for metal pieces and judge their size. There should be NO glitter whatsoever in engine oil, or any kind of debri. Now a rear end or transmission is different. Those always have a little metalic sheen to them.
Best of luck.

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I changed out the waterpump and two weeks later its KNOCKING so i chyeck everything i did then pulled off the pan and sure enough the # 5 cyl.rod had spun a bearing. i replaced All the Bearings and 15 min...


mate u have to get ur crank shaft polished.very soon it will knock as soon as u start.dont start too much otherwise u have to change ur crankshaft.service every 5oookms and good expensive oil please

Oct 04, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Intrepid

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Why do i hear knocking in my engine if i just replaced the heads?


.the knocking comes from the piston and rods sounds like the bottom end of your motor is shot you might have a spun bearing

Aug 29, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Durango

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Knocking sound coming from around the oil pan.


This is a big sign that you might have a spun rod bearing if it's coming form your oil pan. Use a screwdriver and put the flat tip end on the oil pan and the plastic end near your ear like a stethascope and if you hear a knocking it's probaly a spun rod bearing or a bent or warped wrist pin on the bottom of your piston. So some good advice is to not run it anymore until you get it a mechanic to fix it. If you want to do it yourself you have a job ahead of you but refer to an Haynes Auto Repair Manual and you will have fun doing a job by yourself. I hoped this help!

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a knock from the bottom of the motor is a big end bearing STOP DRIVING, new engine or rebuild required, a knock from the rear of the engine could be loose pressure plate on clutch assembly, that is if it is a manual, STOP DRIVING. a rattle from top end is lifters or rockers but you say its a knock so probably not it. one test to do, remove all drive belts to water pump etc and start if the knocking is still apparent then it is internal and time to consider trade in, rebuild or new engine.

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If you hear it knocking no bearing replacement is going to fix that long term. Its best to pull it, the crank shaft will have to be turned or polished and or replaced, weather its a rod or a maine, and posibly line boared if its a maine thats knocking. Do it right and pull it.

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