Question about 1999 Isuzu Amigo

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Replaced # 5 exloust valve now timing off but belt is on rite /what is cam pre load

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  • yadayada
    yadayada Oct 02, 2010

    then the belt is not on right, PERIOD

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Cam pre-load in layman terms is the camshafts tension in the direction of movement this slack can make a one tooth difference in belt position. Check your manual for procedure, I do Porshe's by hand. Many times I have gone back to establishing all top-dead-center positions from scratch to insure the belt is correct, check your distributor also...

Posted on Oct 02, 2010

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Does my 1998 GMC c7500 6.0 have a crankshaft position sensor or a camshaft position sensor


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if it pre valve timing control then it will have a crank shaft sensor

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While replacing timing belt on my 2003 pt cruiser (2.4 liter) I got the belt on with the crank pulley and compression pulley (top front) in timing but exhaust pulley (top rear) off by one tooth. Took belt...


To readjust the cam timing loosen of the valve rockers so that the valves will not move as the cams are turned.. Set the crankshaft on TDC no 1 piston. This will make the mark on the crank sprocket line up with a mark on the housing. The cam shaft marks are to ne facing each other with the "up" marks facing up. Loosen of the adjuster idler and use an allen key to lever the pulley away from the belt. Fit belt and let tensioner off Ensure tensioner spring is in line with the notch. Repeat procedure to get it there.. The valves will now be timed . replace the rockers and adjust as required . The problem that you had is that there was load on the cam lobes from incorrect positioning of the cam shafts and the shaft turns until the load was equal between two lobes.. There is every possibility that there will be bent valves as it is an interference motor.

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Just replaced blown head gasket now the car takes a long time to start and when it does it runs very ruff at idle but at 1500 rpm it levels out


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I replace timing belt but cant set timing


Hi Robert, It would help to know what engine is in your vehicle? A rule of thumb way to set up the valve timing is as follows. Rotate the crank shaft until the crank shaft mark is about 90 degrees from TDC. This will protect the valves from damage when rotating the cams to align them. With the tappet cover removed rotate the cam shaft or shafts so that the number one cylinder is on compression (both inlet and exhaust valves fully closed) and the last cylinder in line on overlap, Look for adjacent timing marks on the cam gears and somewhere close to those look for the alignment marks (maybe notch marks, holes or indented match marks). (Some manufactures use the machined gasket surface where the tappet cover closes onto the cylinder head). Look closely for the static mark on the cylinder head and align the cam(s) to it or them. Once completed, set the crank at Top Dead Center and look carefully for a timing mark which aligns with the gear and set them. Fit the belt so the marks align when the tensioner bearing is released and presses the belt under load. (follow the manufactures recommended tightening instructions.) . (Remember never to crimp a timing belt, if it has been, throw it away and get another, even if it is new!) If the belt snapped and that is the reason for replacement, internal damage may have resulted inside the engine. A snapped belt may cause damage to the valves, the camshafts, the cam shaft caps and to the pistons. If the engine turns much faster than expected and sounds as if there is no compression, you have problems! (Those I've just mentioned. I hope not for your sake. best of luck Regards John

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1 Answer

How to replace a broken timing belt for a 1998 daewoo lanos?? Would there be any head damage?


yes it is quite possible that valves are bent if the cam belt broke or teeth stripped off of old belt, which unfortuneately means removing the cylinder head and getting it repaired (valves replaced and possibly guides) see some of my other posts for cam belt timming marks locations etc...
depending what motor is in your vehicle twin cam or single?

stevenhurc_14.jpg and if its twin cam you usually need cam locking tool for cam gears.

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How to replace a broken timing belt


Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.

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Noisy engine suggesting cam belt prob at 50,000 miles


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2 Answers

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The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.

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