Do i need to bleed the front brakes to change the brake pads, is there any thing special i need to know with the chrysler

normally, you replace the rear brake pads every other change in the front brake pads. for your case, it seems that the front brakes are the only ones working.

bleed your brakes to check if rear brakes are still working. after bleeding, check your brake master if it puts pressure equally to the 4 brakes.

First, there is NO Pumping of the brake pedal
involved in bleeding brakes

I think your smart enough to know you
need to replace both rear brake hoses,
before you proceed with the bleeding

Unfortunately it takes special equipment to bleed the brakes on a vehicle with ABS brakes. If you can get the car to a shop it's best to have them bleed the air out of the system.

U NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES USING A SPECIAL TOOL THAT HOLDS THE ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVES OPEN, ANY GOOD BRAKE SHOP WILL HAVE THE TOOL OR THE DEALER, SORRY BUT THAT IS THE WAY IT HAS TO BE DONE.

the problem here is in order to bleed the brakes properly u need to have a special tool to open up the ABS high pressure pop-it valves, this special tool will be avail at the dealer or in a generic form at any well equiped front end shop, u just can't bleed the brakes without it, I see this same posted problem over and over, this information is correct, u will need a shop to bleed the brakes

For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!

yes and no, you need a 4 inch or larger C clamp to push the wheel cylinder pistons in, other than that maybe a torx socket, have you ever changed any front disc brake pads before?

don't need any special tools, standard sockets sets, "C" clams is a must unless your a He-Man and wrench set, plyer or needle nose will do. I assumed being 2003 your rotor never have been turn and i recommend every time you change your bakes is good idea to have your rotor turn. reason is it will make your pad last lot longer, removed any vibration and better even wear on the pad and eliminate any squealing although is not necessary to do so. make sure you get extra break fluid to bleed the brakes. get your self 5 feet long smallest vacum rubber hoses and a glass jar to bleed your brake fluid in. the rubber vacum hose you going to use to fit on to the bleeding nipple and run the other end of line to your the glass jar to save the brake fluid when you bleed the brakes. when removing caliper, check inspect make sure the rubber seals around your piston look good and not crack or deteriorated. before applying new pad make sure you open the bleed valve to reduce the pressure by turning the bleed nipple counter clockwise and leave it open attach that rubber hoses to the nipple because you going to press on the piston back into it housing with the "C" clamp in order for new pad to fit. becareful not to damage the rubber seals around the piston. its going to take lots of effort to push that piston back in so be a bare with it if needs to. once the pad is back in make sure you keep the reservoir full with brake fluid and then bleed the brake. two people is a good idea to do brake. one will do the pumping the brake and holding it down and other will bleed the nipple. I bleed it 2-3 time will do the job. good luck!

you have air in your brake lines

crawl underneath the front and look at the caliper if it has a duel piston caliper you will see 2 circles about 3 inches across and if it is a single piston caliper it will only have one of these circles in the middle this iswhere the pistons are. yes those pads are suitable. As for bleeding the brakes you need to start at the passengers side rear wheel and bleed it first then go to the drivers side rear wheel then go to the passengers side front wheel and then finally the drivers side front wheel. If you are only replacing the brake pads and shoes then you don't need to bleed the brakes. If you are bleeding the brakes then you will want to be sure to top up the brake fluid as you are doing thebleeding process as if you don't you will end up having to start all over again. as for special tools you may need a 3/8 hex bit and a 8 inch " C " clamp to compress the calipers after you remove the brake pads. If you are replacing the rotors you may require a special socket fo dis-assebleing and re-assembly of the front hubs.