Question about 1993 Buick Park Avenue
There are a few websites that sell videos for this type of repair, but if you read carefully what i'm about to tell you, this can be
done in an hour or less. First, you'll need the following tools
a hammer/12" pry bar or tire iron/ 7" C clamp/ flat med screwdriver/ 5/16 + 3/8 allen wrench, you don't need both but I forget which size it is. Next jack up the left side put a stand under it and remove the tire and turn the wheel all the way to the
right. There are 2 female hex bolts 1 top 1 bottom of the calipar
insert the proper size allen wrench into the bolt and give the
wrench a whack counter clockwise with the hammer + remove
the bolts. Next use the pry bar to wiggle the calipar from the roter. Now remove the outer brake pad and take the C clamp
with the screw end against the inner pad be carefull not to touch
the brake hose or bolt, and screw in the clamp until the piston
collapses into the calipar. The clamp should be fairly easy to turn, but if it's not and the piston won't collapse, then the calipar is frozen and has to be replaced but thats another lesson.
Once the piston is in remove the old pad and save the retaining
clip(unless you got a new one) smear the silicone compound
that came with the new pads evenly on the back of the new pads place the retaining clip on the inner pad and install the pads into the calipar and put the calipar back in place, you may
have to push back the rubber boots the bolts go through as you
put the calipar back on the roter put the bolts back in and slowly press the brake peddle at first it will be low but by 2nd or
3rd pump it will come back. That said it's widely recommended
that you do both sides at the same time unless the right side was done very recently for some reason. Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 01, 2010
Probably not a video, but brakes are to be performed in Axle sets. If the LF is worn more than the RF, something is wrong, like frozen caliper.
Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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