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32 mm socket for axle nut, ratchet, needle nose pliers to remove axle nut cotter pin, 14 mm for brake calipers, not exactly sure what the tie rod bolt size is, but it would probably be in a metric socket set if its not a 14mm
Hi, welcome to FixYa. My name is Shaun. I hope I can help you out with your problem. From the sounds of it, it definitely sounds like your CV joint is the issue, especiallyif you noticed the clicking sound getting worse when turning the car. CV joints aren't incredibly difficult to replace with some basic tools, but if you have limited experience, I would recommend letting a shop do it. First you will need a socket to fit the spindle nut. This is the large nut that holds the wheel assenbly to the CV shaft. If you do not have access to an air impact wrench, I highly recommend getting a 1/2"drive socket and using a large (at least 16") 1/2" breaker bar to remove this nut, as it is VERY tight. Secondly, you will need a basic socket set and a basic combination wrench set. if you son't already have these, here's a word of advice. Don't waste your money buying any SAE tool sets. Buy metric. You can always find a metric equivalent for SAE, but not vice-versa. It may also be necessary to get a ball joint seperator, but you can rent these from most auto parts stores.
Heres the basic rundown of the process. Jack the car up and place it on a jack stand. Remove the tire, then the spindle nut. It helps to loosen the spindle nut a little before jacking the car. Seperate the ball joint on the lower A-arm from the hub assembly, allowing you to swing the entire suspension assembly outward. It may also help to disconnect the sway bar linkage if your car has one to make this easier. While pulling outward on the hub assembly, tap inward on the end of the CV shaft, dislodging it from the wheel assembly. Once the CV is free from the wheel assembly, pull it free from the transmission. This may take some prying to get it free. Make sure you have a drip pan under the car, as wou will lose some fluid. Reinstallation of the new CV axle is the reverse of removal. Make sure to check your transmission fluid level when you are done.
I hope this helps you in some way. Have a good day!
Remove the wheel cover/hub cover from the wheel and tire assembly, then loosen the lug nuts.
Fig. 1: After removing the wheel/hub cover, loosen the lug nuts
Raise and safely support the vehicle, then remove the wheel and tire assembly. Insert a steel rod in the rotor to prevent it from turning, then remove the hub nut and washer. Discard the old hub nut.
Fig. 2: Before removing the hub nut and washer, insert a steel rod in the rotor to prevent it from turning
Fig. 3: Remove the hub nut and washer, then discard the nut, and replace with a new one during installation
Remove the nut from the ball joint to steering knuckle attaching bolts.
Drive the bolt out of the steering knuckle using a punch and hammer. Discard this bolt and nut after removal.
Fig. 4: Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer, then discard the nut and bolt and replace with new ones during installation
If equipped with anti-lock brakes, remove the anti-lock brake sensor and position it aside. If equipped with air suspension, remove the height sensor bracket retaining bolt and wire sensor bracket to inner fender. Position the sensor link aside.
Fig. 5: If so equipped, remove the anti-lock brake sensor and position it aside
Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a suitable prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing. Use care to prevent damage to the ball joint boot. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the stabilizer bar.
Fig. 6: When separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle, be careful not to damage to ball joint boot
Slide the link shaft out of the transaxle. Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur.
Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent.
NOTE: Never use a hammer to separate the outboard CV-joint stub shaft from the hub. Damage to the CV-joint threads and internal components may result. The halfshaft assembly is removed as a complete unit.
Install the CV-joint puller tool T86P-3514-A1 or equivalent, between CV-joint and transaxle case. Turn the steering hub and/or wire strut assembly aside.
Screw extension tool T86P-3514-A2 or equivalent, into the CV-joint puller and hand tighten. Screw an impact slide hammer onto the extension and remove the CV-joint.
Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur.
Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent.
Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
Fig. 7: These tools are necessary for halfshaft removal
Fig. 8: Installing the specified tools to remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle
Fig. 9: Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, since damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur
Fig. 10: Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent, and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent, then remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle
Fig. 11: Exploded view of the halfshaft assemblies and related components - automatic transaxle
the nut is special its metric, the parts store will know its like a 30or35. i know an inch and a half socket is to small If you got the tool i see no problem. you may have to tap on it a little but it should come right out.
I believe the size is the measurement from any of the flat sides of the lug nut across to a flat side directly across from it. So to make it easy to measure, just remove one, and I assume it would be measured as metric. An easier way would be what size metric socket fits the lug nuts? That would be the nut size.
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