Question about 1995 Volvo 940

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Got 940 estate auto,when starting from cold starts ok then starts to choke,have to rev to clear then ok,MPG not to good either,plugs,leads & dis and rota are replaced and other iders

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  • 18 Answers

Could be the fuel pressure regulator. Could be clogged vacuum lines as well.

Posted on Dec 30, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When i start the car up in the morning the auto choke really revs up for about 2 min. Anyway i can remove the auto choke?


If it has an elec choke which most do unless you have a manual choke cable installed in your vehicle you can disconnect the wire to it on your carb but this may make it difficult for you to start and keep your vehicle running when it's cold

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940 SE Turbo won't start. Seems to be linked to damp weather conditions. but is so intermittent it is impossible to be sure. Fuel pump relay replaced.


try changing the distributor cap and if that doesnt work then the coil in case the coil tower insulation is breaking down

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Sometimes to start you have to give it a lot of


Hi
This sounds like a cold start system fault, which is a number of things.
  1. Cold start temperature sensor not operating correctly so the cold start system won't work when the engine is cold.
  2. The idle needs to be set to the correct RPM of the engine when warm, if it is idling ok when it is warm then this wont be the problem.
  3. Spark Plugs are worn and need replacing.
Most case's its the cold start system not operating correctly and if you have a good workshop to take it too they should pick this up quite quickly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

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1 Answer

2006 crv 2002 willnot start with turning key willstart with tow or short pushallparts of fuel (diesei)line cleaned pump&inj.test ok engine will turn when key is used key test ok test show lack of fuel...


hi if when engine starts and warms up it then runs ok ? then starts ok rest of day ? considering vehicles age/milage ? have you checked heater glow plugs ? you only need one glow plug to fail/ leak to earth on cyl head and this will knock out/ leak power to earth of all other g/plugs also consider the possibility that the engine coolant sensor ( not the temp sender) has gon faulty this sensor gives ecu signal to provide excess fuel for cold starting on cold starts and auto cuts off as coolant heats up? rather like using choke control on carbs years ago ? also diesels used to have excess fuel device on pumps on trucks in days gone by ? whick assisted in cold starting hope this info helps?

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1990 daihatsu applause 101a 1.6lt 5spd manual


I have had the same problem, replaced everything. Have not solved it. Sometimes car stops completely whilst driving. Your problrm will only happen when air con is on. There is a small electronic box under glove box. Turn small dial to the low postition or high, whichever fixes it and also bring your revs up with the idle screw on throttle body. I still have not solved my engine cut out problem, must be a faulty relay. I have replaced the computer and distributor but still have the problem

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Runs rich on start up runs ok when hot


The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor COULD be the culpret but first I would check the choke for proper operation.

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If yours is a Mikuni carb, here's what I did to make my choke work manually on a 1986 Plymouth Voyager:

http://imhdd.ms11.net/CHOKE/choke.html

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Cold start


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1976 Gran Torino motorcraft 2150 2bbl carb. Starts and runs ok at high revs but as choke eases off and revs decrease, engine stalls. Fuel pump OK. Float levels and choke pull off OK. No obvious vacuum...


Are you sure your idle ports ( size of pinhole) in carb aren't plugged with something? What happens if it starts to die, and you give it a quick squirt of WD-40 , down throat of carb?

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