I assume that when you refilled the cooling system that you had checked to ensure that first, that it was completely full of coolant (not just the overflow tank) and any air locks had been purged from the system by allowing engine to come fully up to operating temperature, with the heater control on full, and second that there are no leaks anywhere and the radiator cap is in good condition. The heater hoses and those pesky little bypass hoses in the cooling system tend to go hard and split if they are over 10 years old, allowing coolant loss. Those spring type hose clamps tend to be less effective in clamping as the hoses become hard. Worm drive ones are the best to use. The thermostat may be faulty and can be tested by suspending in a suacepan of water and heating water to near boiling point. Thermostat will start to open around 180 Degrees F or 82 C an be fully open at 200 F or 95 C if it is OK. If it does not work like this replace it.and yes you can run engine without one but the engine will run too cool but at least it will not develop any air locks.
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Did you let vehicle run when adding coolant, with heater on as well? I normally let it run until rad fan comes on and off 2 or 3 times and add coolant as necessary during that time,with cap off, or return bottle cap off.. A lot of people forget to run heater while bleeding/refilling the system, which causes airlocks, as well as they don't bleed air out long enough.
THANKS, DID WHAT YOU SAID TO BLEED THE SYSTEM.IT DOSENT SEAM TO GET HOT BUT IT KICKS BACK THE WATER,SO I TOLD MY SISTER TO GET NEW CAP AND THERMOSTATE, AND THIS TIME INSTEAD OF POUR WATER GET ANTIFREEZE.
DONT KNOW IF THAT HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT. BUT GUESS WILL SEE.
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