Question about 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Diagnostic center is flashing "coolant sensor bad" we have replaced the coolant unit on the thermometer behind the radiator, and i just replaced the level sensor today. both are brand new but im still getting the flashing lights saying its bad what can i do to stop it and what else do i need to do to repair it

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  • Jeep Master
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GET SOME ONE WITH A CODE SCANNER ERASE CODE.WHEN YOU REPLACE ANY SENSORS ON ENGINE.YOU HAVE TO ERASE CODE.IF CODE STAYS ON.YOU COULD HAVE WIRING FAULT,PCM FAULT,NEW SENSOR COULD BE DEFECTIVE.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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I bought a 2003 Honda Odyssey used.It was running hot when i got it. I did a compression check on all cylinders.Readings were 240psi consistently on all six cylinders and 250psi on the wet test. Chang


Can you tell if it is really getting HOT? Perhaps it is just a bad reading that maybe the new sensor will correct? That fits with the delayed thermostat & fans. Perhaps checking with a non contact thermometer?
The compression sounds good so the head gasket must be intact. No mousse on the oil cap or evidence of oil/coolant exchange?
Radiators can get clogged - more use for that non contact thermometer - make sure the radiator has no cold spots indicating blockages.

Dec 25, 2014 | 2003 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

2005 impala temp gauge not working light says overheating replaced thermostat temp sensor and bleed system. Any thoughts


Remove the radiator cap, let the car run. When the car is at temp. and the thermostat opens you should see coolant circulating in the radiator. If there is coolant flow and you know for a fact that the engine is not actually hot,(check with a laser thermometer: point the laser at the engine block and read temp.) then you more than likely have a problem with the coolant temp. sensor. Check the connections, replace the sensor.
If you do not see coolant circulating in the radiator then you have an issue with either a thermostat, water pump or possibly a blockage or at worst a problem in the head. Check the overflow with the car running, if it is steadily "blowing bubbles" in the over flow (like someone blowing bubbles into a cup with a straw) then there is compression leaking into the cooling system and there is a problem with the heads. Remove the heads and have them checked for cracks at a machine shop.
If there is no "blowing bubbles" then I would remove the thermostat, run and check for circulation in the radiator again. If it is flowing, then replace the thermostat. No flow, Check the radiator with a laser thermometer. With the car at temp. point the laser at different areas of the radiator and see if you have "cold" spots. If you do then you have blockage at the radiator. If you have consistent readings across the radiator that is not "cold" then change your water pump.
I hope this has been helpful and helps you to solve your problem.

Jul 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 Pontiac Montana. Van overheats (redlines) occasionally, which results in loss of heat (very cold air). When this happens lights flicker, like something is turned on??? After this their is a loss of...


Where do you hear a valve or flapper moving??? Behind the dash ( instrument panel ) It sounds to like you have a electrical problem , not overheating problem . You need to test to see what the real engine temp. is . Also have vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes ,Sounds like A/C is kicking on , the flaper noise you hear is probably the temp actuator inside the dash . You can buy the tool in the video at harbor freight cheap. Point it at upper radiator hose ,near the engine . The IPC illuminates the hot coolant temperature indicator in the message center when the IPC determines that the coolant temperature is greater than 128°C (262°F). The IPC receives a class 2 message from the PCM indicating the coolant temperature. Are you getting any such message ?
How to Use an Infrared Thermometer to Diagnose Car Problems

May 07, 2017 | 2001 Pontiac Montana

1 Answer

I have a 2008 Town and Country and the temp gage gets to dead center and I smell antifreeze. Never remember the gage ever reaching the center before either. So I Checked to see if the radiator cooling fan...


ok this might sound crazy but you say you smell coolant but never said if you checked to see if it was full posible bad coolant temp sensor or no coolant passing the sensor please more info on coolant usually if low coolant fan will stay on however you say you smell coolant. If the coolant sensor is bad fan wont command on it will have a high resistance a low coolant temps and low at high temps. I would check sensor since its obviously getting hotter than half way if you dont have coolant leak the relay behind the head light by the way is a common problem I would have just changed it if its original and it grounds to body thats why it is riveted however you can bolt them. Hope this helps check for thermostat opening at right temps to.

Jan 07, 2011 | 2008 Chrysler Town & Country

2 Answers

It goes and stops after 10 minutes. with 30 minutes cooling time it will go again for 10 more minutes. Ideas?


SOUND LIKE ENGINE GETTING TOO HOT.HAVE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE CHECK USING HAND HELD INFRA RED THERMOMETER OR SCAN TOOL.IF ENGINE GETTING TOO HOT CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.MAKE SURE FRONT GRILLE AND RADIATOR CORES AND CONDENSOR CORES NOT STOPPED UP WITH DEBRIS AND LEAVES RESTRICTING AIR FLOW.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD HAVE RADIATOR FLUSHED AND ENGINE BLOCK FLUSHED SO COOLANT WILL CIRCULATE PROPERLY.

Sep 17, 2010 | 2002 Saab 9-5

2 Answers

Overheating


The engine is kept cool by a liquid circulating through the engine to a radiator. In the radiator, the liquid is cooled by air passing through the radiator tubes. The coolant is circulated by a rotating water pump driven by the engine crankshaft. The complete engine cooling system consists of a radiator, recovery system, cooling fan, thermostat, water pump and serpentine belt.

Check the coolant level in the recovery bottle or surge tank, usually mounted on the inner fender. With the engine cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD or between the FULL HOT and ADD level. With the engine at normal operating temperature, the coolant level should be at the FULL HOT or HOT mark. Only add coolant to the recovery bottle or surge tank as necessary to bring the system up to a proper level. On any vehicle that is not equipped with a coolant recovery bottle or surge tank, the level must be checked by removing the radiator cap. This should only be done when the cooling system has had time to sufficiently cool after the engine has been run. The coolant level should be within 2 in. (51mm) of the base of the radiator filler neck. If necessary, coolant can then be added directly to the radiator.

While you are checking the coolant level, check the radiator cap for a worn or cracked gasket. If the cap doesn't seal properly, fluid will be lost and the engine will overheat.

Worn caps should be replaced with a new one.

Periodically clean any debris; leaves, paper, insects, etc. from the radiator fins. Pick the large pieces off by hand. The smaller pieces can be washed away with water pressure from a hose.

Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful, the fins are very soft. Don't wiggle the fins back and forth too much. Straighten them once and try not move them again. It is recommended that the radiator be cleaned and flushed of sludge and any rust build-up once a year. If this has not been administered within the stated time, this may be why your vehicle is overheating at this time. Have the Radiator flushed asap if this is the case.

Now, if the coolant level is proper and, the cap is in fair or good condition, i would advise to move in the direction of the cooling fans and sensors as well. These fans are vital to the cooling process as well. The cooling fans must cycle in intervals to keep the coolant cool during stop and go driving or, long idle. They are also very important during the operational period of the AC during travel as well. i recommend inspecting the cooling fans while the engine is running. they should cycle during the running period. if this is not the case, you will need to test the operational value of these devices. The test procedure follows below


TESTING


1. If the fan doesn't operate, disconnect the fan and apply voltage across the fan terminals. If the fan still doesn't run, it needs a new motor.

2. If the fan runs, with the jumpers but not when connected, the fan relay is the most likely problem.

3. If fan operates but a high current draw is suspected continue with the following ammeter TESTING.

4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cooling fan.

5. Using an ammeter and jumper wires, connect the fan motor in series with the battery and ammeter. With the fan running, check the ammeter reading, it should be 3.4-5.0 amps; if not, replace the motor.

6. Reconnect the fan's electrical connector. Start the engine, allow it to reach temperatures above 194°F and confirm that the fan runs. If the fan doesn't run, replace the temperature switch.



Ok, Now we will move on to the next possible issue. The water pump. ok, due to the fact that your pump is driven by the drive belt, you will need to start the engine and listen for bad bearing, using a mechanic's Stethoscope or rubber tubing.

* Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
* If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

Replace the pump in this case.

You will also notice leakage around the pump housing if the seal has failed as well. this will strain the impeller and, ruin the pump.

Now. the last area of concern will be the thermostat. this is the most common issue that will inflict overheating in many vehicles. The thermostat is used to control the flow of engine coolant. When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed to prevent coolant from circulating through the engine. As the engine begins to warm up, the thermostat opens to allow the coolant to flow through the radiator and cool the engine to its normal operating temperature. Fuel economy and engine durability is increased when operated at normal operating temperature.


There are several ways to test the opening temperature of a thermostat.

One method does not require that the thermostat be removed from the engine.

* Remove the radiator pressure cap from a cool radiator and insert a thermometer into the coolant.
* Start the engine and let it warm up. Watch the thermometer and the surface of the coolant.
* When the coolant begins to flow, this indicates the thermostat has started to open.
* The reading on the thermometer indicates the opening temperature of the thermostat.
* If the engine is cold and coolant circulates, this indicates the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced.

The other way to test a thermostat is to remove it.

* Suspend the thermostat completely submerged in a small container of water so it does not touch the bottom.
* Place a thermometer in the water so it does not touch the container and only measures water temperature.
* Heat the water.
* When the thermostat valve barely begins to open, read the thermometer. This is the opening temperature of this particular thermostat.
* If the valve stays open after the thermostat is removed from the water, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.
* Several types of commercial testers are available. When using such a tester, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
* Markings on the thermostat normally indicate which end should face toward the radiator. Regardless of the markings, the sensor end must always be installed toward the engine.
* When replacing the thermostat, also replace the gasket that seals the thermostat in place and is positioned between the water outlet casting and the engine block.

* Generally, these gaskets are made of a composition fiber material and are die-cut to match the thermostat opening and mounting bolt configuration of the water outlet.
* Thermostat gaskets generally come with or without an adhesive backing. The adhesive backing of gaskets holds the thermostat securely centered in the mounting flange, leaving both hands of the technician free to align and bolt the thermostat securely in place.

Aug 13, 2010 | 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

Need to locate and replace coolant sensor


If you are refering to the coolant level sensor (causes low coolant light to turn on), it is located on the radiator near the battery on the passnger side. It is on the radiator tank, just below the radiator cap and the upper connection for the transmission line. Heres a picture of the sensor on my 2002 Impala when I removed the radiator (it's the square thing in the center of the picture):

07b01b9.jpg

Jul 12, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

2 Answers

1995 ford ranger with 4.0 auto, I have very little heat based on out side air temp, have replaced radiator, water pump and changed thermostat 6 times, the temp gauge will go to mid range and then drops to...


i am suspecting a flow issue like a clogged radiator or something to do with the impeller on the water pump was there alot of rust? If so that is the impeller and it is in your system real good make sure to flush it until clear water runs out

Dec 21, 2009 | 1985 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

Diagnostic code P0128 on a 2002 chevy astro van


Replace the thermostat,and the coolant sensor,and itt will fix ya up.

Oct 06, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Astro

2 Answers

Where is the coolant sensor located?


Most likely 2 one on the radiator and one on the engine block.

Aug 11, 2009 | 1995 Subaru Impreza

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