In bleeding brakes on my 97 T-bird does the engine need to be on or only the ignition..??

I want to know a ill bit more about how the problem started. If it just went from having brakes to not having brakes it could be the brake master cylinder, or on gm vehicles they have a brake proportion valve. Let me know how it started please

Now you need to bleed the clutch at the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission to restore the clutch.
Put a wrench on the bleed valve and open it, then lightly close it. Now have someone pump the clutch a couple of times to build pressure. Then while the clutch pedal is slowly pressed down open the bleed valve, then close valve as pedal gets to floor. Repeat this bleed process until a steady stream of brake fluid comes out the bleed valve. Then you should have a good clutch again.

answered

ok theres no bleeding coolant but bleeding the brake lines and replace coolant to full mark and run car so the thermostat gets hot and opens and then will need to add more water or coolant

the first thing i would look for is a leekey brake line

good luck!

This is bizarre... I'm suspecting dirt in line(s). Are you bleeding correctly? Starting w/ Right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. You might try using a power bleeder also. A possible long shot, is brake proportioning valve sticking.

1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable support.
2. Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies.
3. Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage.
4. Inspect the battery state of charge.
Install a scan tool.
5. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. With the scan tool, establish communications with the electronic brake control module (EBCM). Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
6. Bleed the base brake system. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.
If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure:
7. 1. If a DTC is detected, check for the cause and repair as necessary.
   2. If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again.
   
   
8. When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal in order to inspect for firmness. Remove the scan tool.
9. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Inspect the brake fluid level.
Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.

1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable support.
2. Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies.
3. Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage.
4. Inspect the battery state of charge.
5. Install a scan tool.
6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
7. With the scan tool, establish communications with the electronic brake control module (EBCM). Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
8. Bleed the base brake system.
9. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.

im having the same problem w my 97 bird... lopey or rough idle. no luck yet changed or tested many sensors already... if you have any tips let me know and ill do the same, [email protected] Thanks

Itsw very unlikely their is a problem with the master cylinder. When you pump the brake's to bleed them it uses up the vacuum and the brakes will be spungy because the servo isnt working properly. After bleeding leave it running for a few minutes then try the pedal it should be ok. If their is a problem with the master cylinder then the pedal would go all the way to the bottom but not spungy. You may need to bleed the brake on the other side to get all the air out of the system.

Those bolts should be allen head bolts and NOT torx (star shaped). With a torx bit in that hole all u will do is mess up a torx bit and the flats for the allen wrenches to grab onto. Try using a 10 or 12 mm( cant remeber which it is) allen head wrench.