Question about Chevrolet Blazer

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Got a 92 blazer that the brake pedal goes to the floor and is spongy, but also fades/sinks when holding it. I've bled all 4 wheels twice, 1st time bled old out until new came through, felt spongy and goes to the floor, 2nd time I bled I had pumped 10 times then held to purge out more fluid, did that 3 times each wheel, made no difference. saw only a few little bubbles on a couple wheels, acting like tons of air in lines. has ABS, can the ABS master cylinder be bad? replaced the main master cylinder before I bled the brakes at all, made no difference. I also pre-filled and purged the new master cylinder after I got it. Went through 2 new ones thinking it was the master cylinder having the problem. If i possibly still have air in the lines, how many times will I have to pump and hold before the front and back lines purge completely so I know for sure it has no air?

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 959 Answers

Blead from the furthest point forward... so , if your master is on the firewall on the drivers side.. rear right , rear left , right front and then left front...

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

  • lytesp33d Oct 04, 2010

    didn't help, bleeding makes no difference. even tried another brake booster thinking maybe vacuum leak in it, everything is same, nothing at all better. Doesn't seem so much to feel like air in lines anymore, but weather you mash the pedal trying to lock up the tires or apply even and firm pressure, it's seems to stop at the same rate. Can't quite get even one tire to lock up solid as hard as I try, maybe that's the abs actually working but it feels like the pedal is sluggish and it takes way too long to stop, like the pedal is stiff and you can't seem to get it to go down fast enough to stop quick enough. I would also think if it's the abs doing it's job, it would make the pedal vibrate as well as the brakes, always smooth.

    Thinking of just running lines straight from the master cylinder to the wheels with maybe a junction block in between. No abs or any kind of braking assistance to interfere.

    I just can't think of anything else but the abs giving me problems right now.

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2 Answers

Abs light is and so is brake light


Hi Kathy, I'm guessing that you mean you've replaced the brake master cylinder. It helps to be as specific as possible, so we can help you in a specific way. Make sure that the brake fluid pipes connecting the master cylinder are sealing correctly. There must be no leakage from them at all. Fill the reservoir and keep it filled throughout the whole bleeding procedure by having someone topping up each time the level goes down. Begin the bleeding procedure at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and move one wheel at a time closer. The procedure is to push the pedal repeatedly to the floor and releasing to come full travel to the top of its movement. Repeat several times and while holding the pedal fully depressed to the floor open and close the bleeding valve on the wheel being bled before beginning the pumping action over. Once all wheels have been bled and you have reached the wheel closest to the master cylinder, if the pressure in the system is insufficient repeat the whole job until brake pedal pressure is normal. Look for signs of leakage on all four wheels in the event there is a leak on a wheel cylinder. The brake warning light should extinguish when the park brake is released and the ABS light when pressure is normal in the system, unless there is another separate fault. Finish up on the bleeding first and let me know how you get on. We'll tackle one job at a time. Regards John

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1 Answer

BRAKES BLED PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR WHEN STARTED


if a master cylinder is bad and you are sure you have all the air out and no leaks.pedal will go to floor , running or not. if booster is bad it will cause a hard pedal. but if master cylinder is bad it will turn on a brake light on dash if it works. make sure the wheel cylinders are not leaking. I beleive that the master cylinder is bad, or you have a leak somewhere. If the master cylinder is functioning properly, the brake pedal will depress to a certain depth and no further.

Apr 20, 2012 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

I HAVE A 95 F250 AND THE BRAKE PEDAL GOES TO THE FLOOR. I HAVE REPLACED THE MASTER CYLINDER TWICE AFTER BENCH BLEEDING, REPLACED THE BRAKE BOOSTER . BLED THE SYSTEM 3 TIMES AND THE BRAKE PEDAL STILL GOES...


You need to check wheel cylinders, the only way that the brake peddle will go to the floor like that is if there is a lose of fluid pressure somewhere .

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1 Answer

I can't get my brakes to bled. I pump the brakes 3 time then hold it to the floor, loosen the cap to let air out,but pedal still goes to the floor


pump up pedal with bleeder locked 6 or 7 times slowly,hold pedal down crack bleeder pedal should sink lock up bleeder before lifting pedal repeat several times should do it also remove bleeder feom caliper to make sure its not blocked

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3 Answers

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1 Answer

87 jag xj6. Brake pedal spongy goes all the way


If the brake lines and fluid is clear then you may have to look at the brake booster found at the other end of the brake pedal under the hood...

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2 Answers

I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...


When you bleed the brakes are you starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder? Also was the master cylinder bench bled? If everything there is okay and you are not getting any air in fluid stream, you could try bleeding the brakes by having some one slowly pump the pedal till it is firm. Then have them let off open first bleeder valve and slowly depress to floor and hold there untol the valve is closed. repeat this at all bleeders. You may want to have car running to do this. Try this and let me know.

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Spongy brake pedal


I have a 2001 Chevy 1500 4 X 4 that recently had all new pads, rotors, and calipers installed. Since then my brake pedal goes almost to the floor before I get any brakes. I took it back to the shop and they bled the brakes with no better results. I bled them also with no results. I took the truck back and they installed a master cylinder with no results. It's now at the Chevy dealer and they say it's normal - BS! I had good brakes before I had all of the brake parts replaced, no one can figure it out. If you have a load in the truck or if you tow anything you better be looking at the ditch to avoid an accident. The original brakes would put you nose into the windshield and now I could stop it better the Fred Flinstone way. Anyone have an answer????????

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