Question about 1995 Geo Tracker

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Does bolts and nuts viberate or just fall off the transmission

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Some nuts and bolts are one-time-use only. If they were properly tightened in the first place, they should not come loose. If parts that were torqued to correct specification come loose, buy a tube of 'Locktite' thread locker from an auto parts store, remove the offending part, put a drop or two of the fluid on the threads and reinstall to correct torque. This material holds the part in place, yet can be removed when needed. Hope this helps!

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

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2003 TL. How do I remove the oil pan?


Not too hard if it is a southern car, if it's from the north, a bit more effort might be needed because the nuts on the exhaust rust. If you are working on the ground, get it up high on ramps or jack stands. Always put another support under the car. Leave the floor jack in place and use jack stands, slide something, like the front tires, under the car, too. NEVER work under a car without a backup support. Cars can, and do, fall off jack stands.
1st you have to remove the exhaust "A" pipe. 3 nuts, 14mm on each exhaust manifold need to come off. ALWAYS spray a penetrating lube, like WD40, on any exhaust nuts before loosening, and before installing them. You need a really good socket, extension and a breaker bar, make sure the socket is on the nuts correctly, break them loose without rounding them off. Then two 12mm nuts on the support bracket, and 3 14mm nuts at the outlet of the "A" pipe at the converter. If these last 3 are too rusty, you can unhook the exhaust hangers and move the assembly over. (Leave the back muffler hangers on.) Drain the oil. (I always try and do these jobs when an oil change is due) two 14mm bolts going from the oil pan to the transmission, and a 10mm bolt holding an access plate at the transmission end, remove access plate. Now a bunch of 10mm bolts and nut holding the oil pan in place. You might have to pry the pan loose, a big drift works good. There are a couple of spots to hook onto and pry.

Jun 08, 2015 | Acura TL Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wiper relay


Problem is in the wiper transmission. Check where the wiper motor bolts to the transmission arm (long arms that connect wiper arms to each other) sometimes the nut falls off or the plastic ball cap breaks.

Nov 16, 2013 | Nissan Pickup Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to replace an alternator on a 2006 p.t.crusier


GENERATOR

REMOVAL


  1. Remove the air cleaner lid, disconnect the inlet air sensor and makeup air hose.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Loosen the upper generator T-bolt lock nut.

  1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  2. Remove the right front wheel.
  3. Remove the accessory drive splash shield.

  1. Remove the pencil strut.

  1. Loosen the lower pivot bolt.

  1. Loosen the accessory drive belt T-bolt.
  2. Unplug field circuit from generator.

  1. Remove the B+ terminal nut and wire.
  2. Remove the generator belt.
  3. Remove the axle retaining nut.
  4. Remove the lower control arm from steering knuckle.
  5. Remove axle shaft. Put a container under the transmission to catch the transmission fluid from the transmission.
  6. Remove the generator lower mounting bolt and nut from the upper T-bolt.
  7. Remove generator out the bottom.
INSTALLATION


  1. Install generator and loose assemble the bolt and nut.
  2. Install and tension the generator belt.

  1. Tighten the lower pivot bolt to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) .
  2. Install axle shaft.
  3. Install lower control arm to steering knuckle.
  4. Install the lower ball joint nut and tighten.
  5. Install the axle retaining nut and tighten.

  1. Install the pencil strut, refer to the body.

  1. Install the B+ terminal nut and wire and tighten to 11.3 N.m (100 ins. lbs.) .

  1. Plug in the field circuit to the generator.
  2. Install the accessory drive splash shield.
  3. Install the right front wheel.
  4. Lower vehicle.

  1. Tighten the T-bolt locknut and tighten to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) .
  2. Connect the negative battery cable
  3. Install the air cleaner lid and connect the inlet air temperature sensor and makeup hose.
  4. Check the transmission fluid.

Aug 17, 2013 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

How to remove a transmission for a 2002 GMC Yukon


Removal & Installation 4L60E/4L65E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
    • Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
    • Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
    • Rear propeller shaft.
  2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor.
    • Transfer case, if equipped.
  4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
  6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Torque converter access plug 4L60E/4L65E removal 9308kg37.gif

    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
    • The transmission from the vehicle
  8. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
    • Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  4. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
    • Torque converter access plug.
    • Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    • Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
    • If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  11. Lower the vehicle.
4L80E/4L85E To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Transmission fluid
    • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
  2. Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
    • If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
    • The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
  4. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Starter motor
  6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  7. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
    • The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
    • The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
    • The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
    4L80E/4L85E removal 9308kg36.gif

  8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
  9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
  2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
  3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
  4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
    • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
    • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
    • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
    • The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
    • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
  6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
  7. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter motor
  8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
  9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
  10. Install or connect the following:
    • The transfer case
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
  11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
  12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
  13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
  14. Lower the vehicle.
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Oct 12, 2010 | 2002 GMC Yukon XL

2 Answers

Do i have to pull the motor out of a 1997 chevy s-10 to remove the transmission?


Removal & Installation To Remove:
Transmission mounting on 2.2L engines 88457g33.gif

Transmission mounting on 4.3L engines 88457g34.gif

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
  3. Drain the transmission fluid.
  4. Remove the driveshaft from the transmission (2WD) and transfer case, if equipped (4WD or AWD).
  5. Support the transmission with a suitable transmission jack.
  6. Remove the shift cable from the transmission control lever and bracket.
  7. Remove the nut and washer securing the transmission mount to the crossmember.
  8. Remove the bolts and washers securing the mount to the transmission.
  9. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold(s).
  10. If equipped, remove the bolts securing the converter pan cover to the transmission.
  11. Remove the 3 bolts securing the torque converter to the flywheel.
  12. Remove the bolt, clip, and strap securing the three fuel lines and transmission vent hose to the transmission case.
  13. Remove the bolts and nut securing the transmission to the engine.
  14. Remove the oil filler tube and seal from the transmission.
  15. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the transmission. Plug the lines and the ports in the transmission.
  16. Unplug the wiring harness connectors from the transmission.
  17. Inspect for any other wiring, brackets etc. which may interfere with the removal of the transmission.
  18. Since the transmission acts as a rear engine mount, properly support the rear of the engine with an underbody support of other suitable support before attempting to remove the transmission. Otherwise the rear of the engine may pitch downward and components on the rear of the engine and on the firewall may be damaged.
  19. Remove the transmission from the engine by pulling the transmission rearward to disengage it from the locator dowel pins on the back of the block. Carefully lower the transmission from the vehicle. Use care that the torque converter does not fall out of the front of the transmission

Jul 16, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

2006 1.8s. I have a problem removing the long bolt on the transmission filter of my 2006 Sentra. I replaced the filter but the bolt threads would not catch.I see someone else has the same problem. Any...


On RL4FO3 automatic transmissions there is a nut and washer on the top of the valve body, that holds that long screw, there are no threads in the valve body so it will never get tight , to replace you need to remove the valve body or get mighty lucky using a thin long tool with a 90 degree bend in it to hold down the nut and washer until you can grab a thread, the good news is you know where the general location of the nut and washer are. If you can't get it to start, and decide to remove the valve body, be really careful those gaskets are brittle. Go to a break down on that transmission and you can see the bolts that actually hold the valve body on the transmission body. The parts house should have told you this.
I never change filters on these transmissions unless I am rebuilding them. Just drop the pan squirt some brake cleaner on the filter until all of the grime comes off of it and then let it dry completely. Clean you pan, put it back together, add new fluid.
I have seen those transmissions run years without that long bolt in them. most of the time they hit a bump and the nut and washer fall to the bottom of the pan. The nut and washer are stainless steel so they might not be attracted to the magnets in the pan depending on the grade of stainless they happened to be using that day. I would try to use a long skinny 90 degree tool to get the nut and washer started back on the screw and then you will have more peace of mind.

Feb 22, 2010 | 2006 Nissan Sentra

2 Answers

Changing the starter on my 99 tahoe


Starter Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Denali, Denali XL, Yukon XL, 1999 – 2005 REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
Removal & Installation
4.8L, 5.3L And 6.0L Engines
CAUTION Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Protective shields, as necessary
    • Starter solenoid shield
    • Starter-to-transmission close out cover bolt
    • Engine oil level sensor connection
    • On 4WD, front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut
  4. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.
    • Mounting bolts from the engine block. Slide the starter forward until the starter clears the transmission.
    • Starter transmission close out cover
    • Positive battery cable and wiring harness from the starter
    • Starter from the vehicle 0900c152800a6916.jpgStarter removal—4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Positive battery cable to the starter. Tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
    • Starter transmission close out cover
    • Mounting bolts to the engine block and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated.
    • Front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
    • Engine oil level sensor connection
    • Starter-to-transmission close out cover bolt
    • Starter solenoid shield
    • Protective shields as necessary
  3. Remove the safety stands.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.
5.7L And 7.4L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Mounting bolts and shims
    • Wires
    • Heat shield
    • Starter
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Starter
    • Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm), and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
    • Heat shield. Torque the bolts to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm) and the nuts to 35 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
    • Mounting bolts and shim. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm).
    • Negative battery cable
6.5L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cables
    • Mounting bolts/nuts and shim, if used
    • Starter
    • Wires
    • Heat shield and bracket 0900c152800a6917.jpgExploded view of the starter motor—6.5L engine
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Heat shield and bracket. Torque the bolts to 13 ft lbs. (17 Nm).
    • Wires. Torque battery wire nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm), and ignition nut to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
    • Starter
    • Mounting bolts/nuts and shim, if used. Torque the bolts to 33 ft lbs. (45 Nm) and the nut to 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm).
    • Negative battery cables
8.1L Engine
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • On 4WD, front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt tip is flush with the support bushing. Do not remove the bolt.
    • Positive battery cable nut
    • Positive cable from the solenoid
    • Engine harness ground nut and ground from the solenoid
    • Mounting bolts and starter
    • Heat shield bolts, nut and shield, if necessary
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Heat shield, bolts and nut if removed. Tighten the bolts to 35 inch lbs. (3 Nm) and the nut to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
    • Starter and bolts. Tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    • Ground wire and nut. Tighten to 30 inch lbs. (3.4 Nm).
    • Positive cable and nut. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  2. Reposition the front axle mounting bracket through bolt until the bolt is fully seated.
    • Front axle mounting bracket through bolt nut and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
    • Negative battery cable

Sep 28, 2008 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

2 Answers

1991 Ford Ranger manual transmission remove


444a343.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
  3. Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
  4. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
  5. On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
  6. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
  7. Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
  8. Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
  9. Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
  10. On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
  11. Remove the starter motor.
  12. Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
  13. Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
  14. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
  15. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
  16. Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
  17. Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
  2. Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
  3. Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
  4. Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
  5. Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
  6. On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
  7. On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
  8. Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
  9. Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
  10. Install the speedometer cable.
  11. Check and adjust the fluid level.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
  14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  15. Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.
The above was pulled frrom:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800391da

hope this helps

Jul 02, 2008 | 1991 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

Front axel


Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the two 18mm bolts that hold the brake caliper bracket, and remove it and the rotor. Remove the small bolt that holds the antilock brake sensor and remove the sensor. Remove the 32mm axle nut. The nut may be hard to remove but it is right hand thread. You can remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the strut and swing the whole wheel bearing assembly out just barely far enough to remove the axle without removing the lower ball joint. The axle is splined in the wheel bearing assembly and you can knock it out with a block of hard wood and a hammer. Reach back along the axle with a long extension and remove the two nuts holding the axle carrier bearing. Be careful not to let the axle fall down and damage the axle seal in the transmission. The axle should slide easily out of the transmission and only a tiny bit of fluid will leak out. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo

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