Question about 1994 Chevrolet Suburban

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I bled the brakes in weel sequence on a 94 chevy suburban.and the pedal still has excessive travel a simi soft feel and 70% braking braking ability and the abs light & brake light stay on.what coud be wrong?

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Brakes are a pain. It sounds like the Crossover valve is not centered and you are using diagonal braking with only 2 wheels. Since 2 wheels are shut off, you need to bleed the fartherest rear wheel. If you have a helper you can have him/her pump the pedal and feel for movement in each wheel.

The rear side that does not move much still needs bleeding. The diagonal front brake that is paired with that one back wheel would be bled next. That should center the Crossover valve. As soon as the valve is centered the light should go off.

Sometimes you need to crack a fitting on the Crossover valve to get it centered. If the repair was for a broken brake line or a blowout on a Brake piston, that wheel and the diagonal wheel on the opposite end of the vehicle would be shutdown and the Crossover would be on that side. Just crack the fitting on the opposite side of the valve and the Crossover should float back into place.

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

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How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    I replaced disc brake pads, rear shoes. wheel cylinder,master cylinder, power brake booster all new. Question: My brake pedal is not solid,goes low to the floor almost. I have bled the master cylinder 1st,...


    Check your lines going to the brakes the rubber hose on the 1993 chevy have a tendancy to crack and brake are you using an excess of brake fluid

    Sep 12, 2011 | 1993 Chevrolet C1500

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    I replaced front and back brakes on my 1996 1500 Chev Suburban. Bled the brakes starting at the farthest line. The pedal is soft and travels too far. Does not seem to stop very good. What is the...


    it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.

    Apr 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    When driving my 2000 pontiac sunfire, I will use my brakes and sometimes they go to the floor and the car barely comes to a stop. Sometimes they work fine though. If I pump the brakes they work fine as...


    try this ABS bleeding procedure:

    WITHOUT TECH 1® OR T-100®

    Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
    This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
    1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
    2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
    3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
    4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
    5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
    6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

    Manual Bleeding
    See Figure 3
    1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
    2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
    3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
      1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
      2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
      3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
      4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
      5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
      6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.

    4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.
    dd40a47.gif

    Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

    1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
    2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
      1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
      2. Open the bleeder valve.
      3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
      4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
      5. Wait 5 seconds.
      6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.

    4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
    5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
    6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
    7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
      1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
      2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
      3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
      4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
      5. Wait 5 seconds.
      6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
      7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.

    8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
    9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
    10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
      1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
      2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
      3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.

    11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.

    Oct 12, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

    1 Answer

    What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy Suburban?


    Bleeding the Brakes
    EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
    To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
    The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
    Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
    1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
    2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
    3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.
    97e350f.jpg

    Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid

    506ad18.jpg

    Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel

    eea0a0a.gif

    Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series

    640f041.gif

    Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series
    1. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
    2. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
    3. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
    4. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.
    Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
    1. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
    2. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
    HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.
    1. Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.
    Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before cranking the engine.
    1. Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
    2. Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on the dipstick.
    3. Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
    4. The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.
    The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops, check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.


    Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).

    Jun 19, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    I have a 2000 chevy blazer. had to short fix left rear brake line with hose and clamps. bled air from that side, brakes were soft in the pedal. checked right rear for any air had none. brakes still feel...


    do not drive the vehicle. remove the hoze. replace it with steel line. rubber hoses are not meant for the high pressures of brake lines. it is expanding when you press the brake pedal. very unsafe.

    Mar 23, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

    3 Answers

    While driving my 1994 Honda Accord the brakes went out. I can only get the car to stop if I press the brake pedal all the way down to the floor. When the car is shut off and I pump the brake pedal, I can...


    There may be air in the lines. Bleed all your brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the resevoir, and finishing at the closest one. Try the pedal after its bled. If the pedal still feels soft or travels to the floor there may be a pinhole leak that may be spraying on the underbody of the car, or the seals in the master cylinder are gone filling the vacuum booster(if equipped). Air compresses more than oil so if bleeding works that may be the problem.

    Feb 21, 2010 | 1994 Honda Accord

    2 Answers

    Excessive brake pedal travel brake pedal goes almost to the floor before stopping, tried bleeding brakes at the callipers with no difference.


    Check the rear brakes are not leaking, or have air in the fluid feed line.
    If above OK, it's probably caused by a faulty master cylinder.
    (To check :- Slacken off the master cyl feed to the front (then rear) brakes, and observe if any fluid is being delivered - if not it is definitely a master cyl problem).

    Aug 10, 2009 | 2001 GMC Yukon Denali

    1 Answer

    Excessive brake pedal travel and 'soft' brakes


    the brakes have to be bleed you wrote that when you start the car the pedal goes to the floor that means the booster is working fine take it back and tell them you want the brakes bleed

    Nov 14, 2008 | 2003 Honda Accord

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