Question about 1993 Saab 900

Open Question

My 1993 saab 900 ruby fasten seat belt light isnt working. i thought it was the bulb but it isnt. it used to work up until a couple of weeks ago. where should i start please? regards michael

Posted by on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Saab 900 headlight

You turn the black plastic cover then there is a spring type deal you have to undo then the bulb comes right out.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: deadbolt mode

Deadbolt mode must be activated and deactivated using the key in the driver's door. Insert the key and turn (I believe) all they way to the right to activate and all the way to the left to deactivate

Posted on Oct 15, 2008

Saaboheme
  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 saab 900 belt diagram

Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.

(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.

All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.

Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in Englishicon_cheesygrin.gif ).

Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).

Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.

Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).

(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).

(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.

Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.

Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).

(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.

Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).

(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.

Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.

(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.

If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!

(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.

Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.

Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.

If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

saabreur
  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: fitting front headlights

You really need to clarify what you are trying to do!

The headlight case is secured by two horizontal bolts at the top of the case, visible from outside the car and under the hood when it is slid forward but not raised, and one vertical screw at the outside of the case that connects to the body or side lamp case(?) and is visible from inside the engine bay. There is no adjustment to the fitting of the headlight case to the body.

Aiming the headlights is done with the nylon knobs on the back of the headlight, from inside the engine bay.

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: I need a diagram showing the locations of the fuse boxes

The fuse box is located on top of the drivers side fender under the hood. A smokey looking plastic box. There are two thumbscrews that hold it closed. Flip the lid over and it will tell you what fuses go where.

Posted on May 30, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

2003 ford escape seat belt warnign light


Probably no need to see an expensive mechanic. My seat belt warning light came on a few days ago when there were four people in the car and the rear seat belts weren't fastened (I thought that was why it lit up). However, the light came on and stayed on when I was the only person in the car. Logically, it suggested a bad connection somewhere, so I checked the connector under the passenger seat and made sure it was properly fastened together. I then sprayed a small amount of WD40 into the female clasps of both front seat belt connectors, clipped and unclipped the belts a few times and the light is now fine. Try it - it worked for my 2003 Escape.

Jun 03, 2012 | 2003 Ford Escape

1 Answer

How do the obd 2 clear the check engine light on a 1995 Saab


  • A 1995 Saab 900 still used the ISO 9141 not OBD II so an OBD II will serve no purpose to your vehicle. Saab 900 did not use OBD II until 1996. If you want the check engine light to go away on this vehicle you have to fix the problem and then the battery disconnected for a couple minutes and the light should stay away if all is OK.

  • If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
  • Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.


Regards, Tony

Oct 12, 2011 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

MY 1992 sAAB CONVERTIBLE HAS A PROBLEM: tHE PASSENGER'S SEAT SEEMS TO HAVE A PROBLEM AND THAT HALF OF THE SEAT WORKS...WHEN i MOVED THE LEVER FOR THE SEAT TO MOVE BACK ONLY HALF OF THE SEAT RESPONDS...


Under the seat there is supposed to be a cable that runs from one side to the other. It releases the other side to move. It is come off or broken.

Aug 11, 2011 | 1993 Saab 900

1 Answer

On a 1996 saab 900 SET how can i reset the SRS indicator warning ?


i just put new breaks on my 1996 saab 900s front and back but the abs light comes on and off, also over a week ago and my check engine light is on and staying on all the fluids and everything is in the car i dont no what it is and nobody knows i just bought the car June 26, 2011 please help.

Sep 28, 2010 | 1996 Saab 900

1 Answer

Reverse not working in my 1995 saab a week after the clutch was


Standard tranny's are pretty simple. Sounds like some of the linkage came unconnected. Take it back to whoever replaced the clutch and have them repair the problem. They apparently didn't put it back together right. You have to disconnect the linkage to pull the transmission to replace the clutch.

Dec 09, 2009 | 1995 Saab 900

4 Answers

Saab 900 will not turn over, starter motor has been replaced.help


is the trigger wire on starter (sm conn) energised when you turn key? should be close to 12v. could be bad ign switch if no power..

Apr 06, 2009 | 1996 Saab 900

1 Answer

1996 SAAb 900 SE moving problem


driving up hii driveway the cr stopped it won't start

Mar 01, 2009 | 1994 Saab 900

2 Answers

Instrument panel's lights out parttially....


The driver speaker cover comes off with Torx and after shining light through windshield, you will see two bulbs on a printed circuit film set apart from each other. You can reach them and twist and pull, clean contacts if bulbs not blown, replacement Sylvania 2721. There is also the reostat/dimmer knob that can be jiggled on dash, lower than the bulbs, each controling each bulb. I am in process of replacing mine with LED lights, which are brighter and come in colors as well. You just have to make sure the LED draws no more than 12 VDC as the alternator output is 14 VDC. Check out superbrightleds.com , there you will look for # 74 bulbs, which is same as 2721...I just came across the site today and thought, although your ????was a while ago, maybe this will give Saab Nation the ability to see at night....LOL
Peace

Dec 17, 2008 | 1988 Saab 900

2 Answers

I don't know how to change the fog/driving lights on Saab 900 '97


It's a bit harder on the 97 if you have a Talladega model. Reaching won't work. You have to half drop the lip bolted to the bottom of the bumper (this is part of what makes it a talladega). You'll need 7, 8, 10 mm sockets, a torx driver, a little luck. A lift helps tremendously as there are only a couple inches to work between car and ground.

Drop the lip, then get in there and undo the bulb. Reverse

Nov 14, 2008 | 1997 Saab 900

1 Answer

98 saab 900 se convertible - driver side seat belt is fully "in" and is stuck. I can't really move it in and out, because it is almost fully withdrawn inside...


The belt ratcheting mechanism is knackered. I have tried twice to fix this problem and simply could not do it. My ultimate solution was to buy a used belt from Goldwing Saab in NY and install that. It is about a 35 to 40 minute job in the verts.

Jul 23, 2008 | 1997 Saab 900

Not finding what you are looking for?
1993 Saab 900 Logo

Related Topics:

131 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Saab Experts

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22095 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75077 Answers

rgbypoet

Level 2 Expert

166 Answers

Are you a Saab Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...