Question about 2004 Mercedes-Benz CLK-Class

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2004 mercedes clk reads coolant visit workshop. The coolant level is ok, but the radiator fan keeps runs on high as long as the car is running. I replaced the coolant level sensor which did not solve the problem. Any suggestions??

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It could be either the left front fuse and relay box,left front sam or the engine control module. Basically it's in a safety mode right now because the engine control module is not getting the coolant temp. The early clk's had this problem when they came out with the new body style. Was a common problem for awhile.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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1 Answer

My car keeps running hot. I have changed the radiator, water pump, thermostat and temperture sensor. It seems like the cooling fans are not working. I don't know what else can be the problem. Please help.


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possibly faulty electronic fan control module which is inside the radiator fan, must get your car in to the Mercedes workshop and read fault code and also they can activate and check is the fan is working or not by there diagnostic CPU, if the activation dos not work, then replace the radiator fan , is this information helped you?

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1 Answer

I own a 1988 190E mercedes benz, my problem is the rising temperature when it is on an idling mode


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1 Answer

Car overheats


Check the coolant level in the recovery bottle or surge tank, usually mounted on the inner fender. With the engine cold, the coolant level should be at the FULL COLD or between the FULL HOT and ADD level. With the engine at normal operating temperature, the coolant level should be at the FULL HOT or HOT mark. Only add coolant to the recovery bottle or surge tank as necessary to bring the system up to a proper level. On any vehicle that is not equipped with a coolant recovery bottle or surge tank, the level must be checked by removing the radiator cap. This should only be done when the cooling system has had time to sufficiently cool after the engine has been run. The coolant level should be within 2 in. (51mm) of the base of the radiator filler neck. If necessary, coolant can then be added directly to the radiator.

While you are checking the coolant level, check the radiator cap for a worn or cracked gasket. If the cap doesn't seal properly, fluid will be lost and the engine will overheat.

Worn caps should be replaced with a new one.

Periodically clean any debris; leaves, paper, insects, etc. from the radiator fins. Pick the large pieces off by hand. The smaller pieces can be washed away with water pressure from a hose.

Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins with a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful, the fins are very soft. Don't wiggle the fins back and forth too much. Straighten them once and try not move them again. It is recommended that the radiator be cleaned and flushed of sludge and any rust build-up once a year. If this has not been administered within the stated time, this may be why your vehicle is overheating at this time. Have the Radiator flushed asap if this is the case.

Now, if the coolant level is proper and, the cap is in fair or good condition, i would advise to move in the direction of the cooling fans and sensors as well. These fans are vital to the cooling process as well. The cooling fans must cycle in intervals to keep the coolant cool during stop and gp driving or, long idle. They are also very important during the operational period of the AC during travel as well. i recommend inspecting the cooling fans while the engine is running. they should cycle during the running period. if this is not the case, you will need to test the operational value of these devices. The test procedure follows below


TESTING


1. If the fan doesn't operate, disconnect the fan and apply voltage across the fan terminals. If the fan still doesn't run, it needs a new motor.

2. If the fan runs, with the jumpers but not when connected, the fan relay is the most likely problem.

3. If fan operates but a high current draw is suspected continue with the following ammeter TESTING.

4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the cooling fan.

5. Using an ammeter and jumper wires, connect the fan motor in series with the battery and ammeter. With the fan running, check the ammeter reading, it should be 3.4-5.0 amps; if not, replace the motor.

6. Reconnect the fan's electrical connector. Start the engine, allow it to reach temperatures above 194°F and confirm that the fan runs. If the fan doesn't run, replace the temperature switch.



Ok, Now we will move on to the next possible issue. The water pump. ok, due to the fact that your pump is driven by the drive belt, you will need to start the engine and listen for bad bearing, using a mechanic's Stethoscope or rubber tubing.

* Place the stethoscope or hose on the bearing or pump shaft.
* If a louder than normal noise is heard, the bearing is defective.

Replace the pump in this case.

You will also notice leakage around the pump housing if the seal has failed as well. this will strain the impeller and, ruin the pump.

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1 Answer

Radiator coolant


first question is after you changed your hose and refilled while the car was running with the radiator cap locked but loose with the heater on high and set on hot run the car till the thermostat opens shut the car down once it does anti freeze level will drop and air will rise and (extreme caution taken with drain pan below ) start the car use two people run it shut it down let air escape threw cap start again run a couple of minutes shutdown again let cool down take cap off restart car with cap off watch radiator level will somone lightly increases gas peddle refill level to top reinstall cap completely tight then let idle down some vehicles have a small bleeder mounted in the thermostat houseing or in line with the radiator circulation system

Sep 10, 2008 | 1992 Mercedes-Benz 190

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