If there's anyone who has or knows where I could find the diagram to render the correct lbs of torque while tightening the bolts after a gasket replacement. I would really appreciate it very much.
Valve 1 shows the bolts to remove and not to touch
Valve 2 shows you where the bolts go and their length
Valve 3 shows you the order to use for the torque wrench
1) bolts #8 + 9 are dowel bolts. Make sure they go in 1st to align the VB.
2) make sure you use a torque wrench to tighten the VB bolts ( 96in lbs I think????) Due to the VERY thin metal walls of the VB, they are VERY easy to distort.
3) when you remove the VB, a whole S***load of fluid will pour out....get a bucket or drain pan ready...
4) when you lift the VB up, the manual valve will still be connected. Just slide the link rod out by moving the vb towards the front of the car. It's ok if the manual valve slides out. It only goes in and hooks up to the linkage 1 way on the '99. On the '93 you have to pay special attention because it is easy to mixup the orientation of the valve.......
5) if it is the '93 you are working on.....your replacement VB may come with instrucitons on replacing/modifying the manual valve.....just resue your old one and save yourself the time in doing the modification.......
This is per the ATSG Book Never use a 3rd design manual valve on a 1st design manual valve link. This will allow extra play in the linkage and could result in wrong gear engagements.
Functionally the 3rd design manual valve (1994 +) is the same as the 2nd design (1992 +) it just has a plastic cap on the end to prevent the manual valve from being installed backwards.
Install the manual valve with either the flat (1991-1992 early), or notch (1992 + including 1994 +) UP.....NOTCH OR FLAT UP!!!!
Hope this helps a little its 97In-lbs, according to the ATSG book but i think alldata has it listed at 96In-lbs.
You can use a 1st gen manual valve in a newer valve body (one with a 3rd gen valve) , therefore avoiding the issue of link/valve incompatabilities......
I should add, if you remove only the bolts listed above, the VB will come out as a complete unit....no worries about balls or springs falling out....just about .5L of fluid!
If I can get your email, I can send you a picture of the order for torquing the valve body this is for my SC2 1993, but I think they are the same. my email is rocks_water4gas@inbox.com
Hope it helps Good Luck Roxanne
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you can look up repair guides on autozones repair section, but when i replaced my valve cover on my 98 saturn sc2, I did a alternating star patern like on a tire, and I just tightened it down till I saw the seals from the spark plug wholes plump out just a lilte. I have no leaks and no problems. The torque speks in the book are in inch pounds not foot pounds. So I just did it on my own.
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