Motor will turn over but will not start. Replaced maf, plugs. plug wires, cranckshaft positioning sensor, o2 sensors, and checked timing. bought the car les than 90 days ago. retuned it to the dealer and was told that the head gaskets were blown. car never ran hot. was traveling about 65mph and attempted to pass another vehicle when the rpms suddenly dropped, stopped on side of road and restarted the car 15 minutes later after several attempts. arrived home and has started three times various times but runs very rough. could it possibly be the head gaskets? Never heard of both going at the same time.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
An expert who has answered 200 questions.
Re: vehicle will not run
Check the color of your oil if its like milky then yep it would be head gasket i guess replacing both is the way to go as its hard to determine if both are good or not. maybe the dealer was aware already of this prob.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
They are related mostly. All have to do with air intake. 170 codes are both sides running lean, to much air. 303 is a #3 misfire, could be a vacuum leak around the plenum. you replaced the spider. Could be the injector not seated right(smell for gas in the oil/dipstick), also could be a bad wire or spark plug. 1509 is an electrical problem with the idle air control motor. Check the plug for corrosion. Also wires usually break a round the plug. This also could be the problems with too much air.
Disconnect the fuel return line at the fuel rail and monitor your fuel pressure when the ignition switch is cycled to the run position several times WITHOUT starting the engine. Connect a hose to the rail to allow fuel to drain and not spray all over the back of the engine. If your fuel pressure is high (60psi or higher) it will show that you have a defective fuel pressure regulator , or debris in the fuel rail causing a blockage of fuel flow. If the pressure is normal with the return line disconnected it suggests the fuel return line is plugged up between the engine and tank or in the tank. Your issue is that you are Running extremely rich, hence your O2 reading .
When the MAF on most vehicles reach a point of preventing the engine from starting, you can usually just unplug it and the engine will start. If that doesn't work-
You may want to try having the O2 sensor, ( Oxygen sensor ), checked. It works with other components of the emission system and can cause similar symptoms as the MAF, including preventing the engine from starting.
Do not physically touch the heated wires, they are ceramic coated and sensitive. Only spray tehm With carb cleaner or MAF sensor cleaner.
It sounds like you are running lean. IF your TPS is adjustable, it may need adjusting. TPS = throttel position sensor. Other than that, a bad intake air temperature sensor or bad upstream O2 sensor should turn on your check engine light.
Your problem is most likely a sensor problem. Did you get a check engine light?
It could also be a fuel pump. These vehicles are verry sensitive to even slightly low fuel pressure. Once the pump starts to get tired they just start running crappy followed by stalling and hard starting.
Id start testing cheap stuff first. Like the O2 sensor. If it has been a while or never changed then it needs changed. Should be changed every other year or so to keep it working in tip top shape. cheap O2 sensors may have to be replaced more often like once every year.
Next I would look at the MAF sensor. These often get a bit dirty inside and affects the ability for it to detect the proper amount of air. Clean it with a MAF safe cleaner and it just might do the trick.