Question about 1985 Toyota Corolla 2 Door

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1985 Toyota Corolla, standard 5 speed. Car idles and runs great for first 10 minutes. Once warm, it starts to have engine rattle like piston slap or lifter rattle only at the middle part of the acceleration. Powers up hills okay. Is fine driving along the flat highway.

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  • Toyota Master
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Your harmonic ballancer is shot.
With the engine off , key out of the ignition... grasp the belt that goes down to the engine crank and see if you can make it turn a little ... if you can , you will see that the outside of that bottom most pully turns ... while the crank does not...
Replace the harmonic ballancer with a new unit... ( used ones are 90% junk by the time you get em from a bone yard...)

There is a cut out on the passangers side to access the bolt you need to take out... it is behind the tire , so the tire must be removed to access it...
easy fix ya !

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hi when i start my 2004 toyota corolla 1.4i in early in morning its goes off if i dont reff it.i need to leave the car strat for atleast for ten or fifteen minutes when car is warm it sound very smooth but...


Look into the following:
Weak cylinder compression. (Check valve clearance)
Clean the throttle body and re-learn idle speed control system.
The abnormal engine noise is often called piston slap and it is heard at cold start when the ambient temperature is near to zero. This is absolutely harmless.

Oct 12, 2013 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 3 month old corolla 2012 le automatic. The engine temperature stays below C when I start the car in the morning and heating doesn't work. Even letting the engine run on idle for a few min


You need to have the dealer look at this, if you fool around with it you can void your warranty. Toyota looks for any legal excuse to void the warranty.

Dec 06, 2012 | 2012 Toyota Corolla L Sedan 1.8L 4-cyl....

1 Answer

It has rough idle when you first start it then straightens out after warming up


sounds like low compression at start up do to piston slap and not alowing car to warm up over the years before driving off. 3.1, 3.4, 3.5 motor pistons are exact size at operating temp there for cold temps at start up cause the pistons to slap the cylinder wall.. Gm engineers did this to reduce operating temp while driving by lowering friction in the cylinder. problem is most people these days start there cars and take off down the road..my suggesting would be to check piston compersion at operating temp and see if it meets spefications for ur mottor before replacing any other parts...

Aug 16, 2012 | 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

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Toyota 92 model no idle upon initial start up but idle when engine is warm


Engine stalling issue at low speeds

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control



May 30, 2012 | 1992 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

When i start my 1997 toyota rav 4 it makes a loud rattle noise..and everytime i push the gas it rattles even louder..after running about 5 minutes it usually goes away...what is wrong with my engine?


without being there to listen to it then it is going to be hard to say what the problem is......but since my 20 plus yrs working on toyota and lexus and depending on the mileage and whether or not you have ever replaced the timing belt......i would first start by checking the timing belt because when the motor is cold the rubber on the belt gets hard and if the belt is streched when first started it will start flapping and will slap against the timing cover and as it warms up the rubber on the belt softens up and the noise will reduce to a less noticeable sound......i have also the wrist pin bushings and the pins themselves that are connected to the pistons make this noise and also if the oil rings are sticking it will leave the pistons loose in the cylinder wall and as the motor warms up the noise will go away.....i hope that this info will help and if you need anymore info let me know with more detail.....also if you could let me and fixya know if i was able to help you in any way and a comment and a thumbs up would be greatly appreciated....thanks and good luck.......have a blessed day...........

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2 Answers

Engine make Knocking noise when cold


I have the same problem on my 2.0L 2001 Legacy auto. It began about 1000 miles ago. It has now done 84k. From my online searches this is most probably 'piston slap', and is not serious. To save weight Subaru shaved down the skirts on the pistons. With normal engine wear the pistons will at some point rattle against the cylinders until the engine is heated up and the pistons expand. The rattling should go away after a few minutes. If it persists say 10-15 minutes, it may be another problem.

Feb 06, 2009 | 1998 Subaru Forester

2 Answers

1985 AE82 4AC Toyota Corolla


YOU HAVE AN EARTHING PROBLEM MOST LIKELY A FAULTY EARTH STRAP BETWEEN THE ENGINE BLOCK AND THE CAR BODY [THIS IS A SEPARATE THICK CABLE OR FLAT BRAIDED CABLE WHICH IS ATTACHED AT ONE END TO THE ENGINE BLOCK - USUALLY ON THE CYLINDER HEAD, AND THE OTHER END ATTACHED TO THE FIREWALL OR CHASSIS RAIL] IF THIS WIRE IS BROKEN OR THE ENDS ARE CORRODED OR LOOSE THEN YOU WILL GETTHE SORT OF SYMPTOMS YOU DESCRIBE.

RUN A NEW CABLE FROM ANY POINT ON THE ENGINE BLOCK TO A PART OF THE BODYWORK AND SEE IF THAT CURES YOUR PROBLEMS

N360



Jul 08, 2008 | 1985 Toyota Corolla 2 Door

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