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if it has threaded holes on it u can run 2 bolt in on either side to drive it off. if not u will have to beat it off with a hammer. sometimes they can b a pain in the u kno wat. also try to put penetrating oil on the wheel hub and in the holes the wheel lug studs stick out off.
I would go to a local salvage yard and take the OEM studs out of a saturn cylinder head there, if you go after market you have to worry about the size and width of the studs not to mention the correct thread pitch....
Before we get to putting it the Belt back on... Look at the alignment of the Pulleys. Most times the Tensioner or Idle Pulley are "canted" - meaning pitched or leaning forward, which causes the belt to "run off" the pulley - throwing the belt. With the Belt off: check side-to side play for each one of the Pulleys by hand, especially for the Tensioner and Idle Pulleys. There should not be any side-to side play. If there is any other Pulleys that are canted - check if they are properly tightened. A new belt should not have come off on it's own without some other problem.
GENERAL/Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with a Tensioner: A. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link) B. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. C. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. D. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with Tensioners: a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right. c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley. d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley. e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Regarding the Strip Lug -Studs. Is this on the wheels with Rotors (Disc) or Drums? If the tire was not properly mounted, or the Lug Nuts were not properly Torqued; this will cause the Lug Studs (bolts) to be stripped. With the vehicle raised and properly supported by jack stands: For Rotors: Remove the Tire, Brakes (Calipers/Pads) and Rotor, exposing the Wheel Hub (Bearing) Assembly with the Studs fully exposed. Rotate the Wheel Hub to a location where the Lug Studs can be clearly removed FROM THE REAR OF THE WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lug Studs back thru the Wheel Hub Assembly. Remove the loosened Lug Studs.
For Drums: Raise, support, remove the Tires. Remove the Drums off the Wheel Assembly. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lugs back into the drum, removing from inside the Drum
Purchase the new, correct size and length Lug Studs and new Lug Nuts. If the Studs were stripped, most like the Nuts are too. To reinstall the Lug Studs: Purchase an additional two (2) Lug Nut that fits that Lug Stud. Also purchase several Large Heavy Duty Washers that can fit on the the Lug Studs.
Place the Lug Stud back into the Wheel Assembly from the Rear (Rotors) or from inside (Drums). Use High Temp Grease for the area of the Lug Stud Splines that have to be "drawn" into the Wheel Assembly (with Rotors) or into the Drum. After the Lug Studs are "IN" as far as they will go: on the outside place at least two (2) of the Washers on Lug Studs. Use a Lug Nut and tighten as far as possible down-on the Lug Stud as possible. Next: Using an Impact Wrench tighten that Lug Nut down/on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Assembly/Drum. Check the rear of/inside the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. The Heads of the Lug Studs should be firmly against the Wheel Assembly/Drum. If you do not have a Impact Wrench - use at least a 24-in Breaker Bar and Tighten the Lug Nut on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. This takes longer and alot more work, compared to 10-seconds using the Impact Wrench. Repeat as necessary.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!
This is usually one of two things. Either the hubs/studs have become
rusted to the inside of the drum, or the shoes have worn a circle
larger than the inside edge of the drum. If the drum is loose but will
just not pull off, the shoes are in the way and you need to adjust them
down a bit. Look for a small adjusting slot 180 degrees from the bleeder nipple. If
the drum is not loose then you have the rusted solid situation; I have
seen folks repeatedly squirt WD40 or some non flammable substitute
around the stud holes, apply some heat and ping with a hammer until it
loosens. Myself I like to put a puller on the drum, tighten it
until I warp the drums and then buy new drums!
Remove tire and wheel, remove caliper and brake rotor. DO NOT apply the brakes while the caliper is loose. Hit stud you want to replace hard with a LARGE HEAVY hammer to drive it out towards vehicle. DO NOT use a light hammer. It will distort the stud and possibly mushroom the end making it very difficult to remove. Once the stud is loose, you may or may not have enough room to get it out of the hole. You may need to pull the hub loose from the rear suspension to gain more room. Remove the stud. Place new stud in hole. Put a stack of washers over the stud, grease the threads, and using a new FLAT nut with the same threads as the lug nut, tighten until the stud is pulled all the way into the hub. Remove the flat nut, reattach the hub assembly (if you needed to take it loose) and reinstall the brakes.
there called studs you need to tap them out then insert new ones from behind the hub can be done with not much to take apart if not it would probably be between $100 & $200 at a workshop for labor and up to $20 for the studs