Question about 2007 Mercedes-Benz R350

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Cam Gear problems - 2007 Mercedes-Benz R350

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Maybe its not the cam,check the lifters.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

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Same as any other v-8 dis-assemble the front of the engine to get to the timing cover. Loosen the oil pan bolts to allow the timing cover to be slipped out. unbolt and remove the timing cover. Turn the engine over by hand until the dot on the crankshaft gear( the small one) is at the top 12 oclock position, and the dot on the cam gear(large gear) is at the bottom 6 oclock position remove the old cam gear and old chain. Install new gear and chain with the marks in the same places. Re assemble engine. DO NOT be tempted to just put in a new chain, replace the chain and cam gear as a set, wear on the cam gear will cause the chain to be slack, which in turn causes the cam timing to be late.

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Replaced distributor after rebuilding engine, rebuild done by local shop. After approximately 10,000 miles the distributor gear failed. Teeth wore until they were sharp than several broke. What could be...


My neighbor had the same problem on a 1999 Suburban. They had used a new gear from NAPA instead of GM the gear wore out in no time. Get a new gear from GM. I don't think he had to replace the cam.
I hope this helps.

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There is a dot on each of the gears one on the large cam gear and one on the small crank gear.The crank gear dot on the teeth of the gear should point to the 12oclock postion straight up then the one on the cam gear point sin the 6 O clock position so the dots meet each other then you put the chain on the cam gear then around the crank gear then bolt on the cam gear the dots should still be lined up with each other.this puts the engine in the #4 firing postion

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My distributor gear on my 89 Chevy 5.7 motor with hydraulic roller cam keeps getting chewed up.I've tried a bronze gear and a steel gear and still the same problem.What's wrong?


You can try putting a thrust button on the front of the cam (available at speed shops) That will keep the cam from walking back and forth. Also, check the shims between the gear and housing. if I remember correctly the clearance there is minimum of 15 thousandths. If it's tighter than that it may bind on the cam gear. Also, if the gear has failed multiple times take a good look at the teeth on the cam. If they have become damaged, it will continue to "eat" dist gear unless you remove the cam and either "dress" the gear or change the cam.

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There should be marks stamped into the cam and crank gears that need to line up with corresponding marks on the backing plate before you remove the cambelt.

If there are no markings, you need to make your own.

Rotate crank until at TDC (reinstall the crank drivebelt pulley loosely and front cover to do this, then take them off again)

Once at TDC, use correction fluid and mark the crank position twice - once on the crank gear itself and a corresponding mark on the backing plate.

Ditto for the cam gear.

Make sure these marks are aligned when cambelt is replaced, turn engine one full revolution when new cambelt is on to double check marks line up where they should and you're good to go.

Sometimes the cam isn't marked but the crank gear is. In that case line up the crank gear and use the above step to mark the cam gear.

Be precise as the cam gear will most likely move when you take the cambelt off due to tension from the cam on the rockers

Hope this helps :)

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