Question about Ford F-100

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My 1977 ford f-100 was running now when i turn the ignition the engine does not turn what couyld be wrong i installed a new battery but after drivcing 60 miles it cranked up slowly but started then i got home and notrhing turned over

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Sounds like it needs an alternator to me.At least check the belt and make sure it is tight enough.If the belt is not broke and is tight,Autozone will do a free alternator and battery check.
Good luck! Greg

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

Testimonial: "what else could it be "

  • Greg McCarthy Sep 27, 2010

    The first reply by ginskie wasn't very good.If it's the fuse it won't even start.If it's the start relay it won't start.Misfire would result in backfire(lean mixture,too much air,noticeable increase in temperature guage) or at least herky jerky or reduction in power.Ignition module or switch would not start because it is an input to the start relay which ends in a 12v signal to the PCM telling the rest of the system all go.A new battery drained that fast is 99% of the time alternator.That guy just listed all the input components to the PCM and 1 indirectly controlled by the resulting output of the PCM.The signal out of the PCM tells the fuel pump and auto shutdown relay all is good and enables the ignition coil and fuel injectors.

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In your case there so much things that could be wrong.
here are some of the causes! It might be that you have,
weak starter, misfiring (spark plug) or coil, does you battery gets drain? must be your aternator, fuses or relay, but sometimes most likely s the ignition module or switch. try chcecking this fisrt and what would happen. Then let me know If I could be more help... best of luck.

Ginskie.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

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1996 Renault Clio Club 1.2 Petrol. Batteries replaced in ignition key. Unable to start car. Battery ok, engine turns over ok but will not fire up. Prior to replacing the batteries there was no proble


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With the vacuum line(s) dis-connected from the distributor and plugged up, the engine timing should be set at 4 degrees before top dead center idling at 650 rpm, and if it has California emissions then the ignition timing should be set at 12 degrees before top dead center while idling at 700 rpm. If the timing specifications listed on the vehicle emission label are different from these specifications then the specifications listed on the emission label are to take precedence.

Use a timing light to check the ignition timing, (and be sure that the timing light is connected to the #1 spark plug wire) and if the ignition timing is not to specifications then loosen the distributor hold down and turn the distributor until the timing marks move into position and are aligned to the timing specification, then tighten down the distributor hold down and then re-check the timing to be certain that the distributor did not move out of timing when the distributor was tightened down, then re-connect the vacuum line(s) to the distributor and re-set the engine idle back to where it was if it had to be changed. Be sure that the timing scale and marker down on the harmonic balancer/crankshaft pulley and the engine block are clean and they will show up well, and you can also mark them with chalk so the engine can be timed easily.

If you connect the vacuum line(s) to the distributor and the engine runs poorly then all of the vacuum line(s) to the distributor will have to be checked and then connected to their proper vacuum source.

If the ignition wires are leaking secondary voltage you might get a good secondary voltage shock if you touch the distributor to turn it. Let me know if you need help connecting and using a timing light, or if you require any further assistance.

Here is a firing order diagram to help assist you.


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Hi iam marlin i have a 1973 ford f-100 ranger with a 360 engine. i installed a new solenoide. i had a problem at first, i got it started but it had a whining sound so i turned it off but when i went to...


Test for power at the solenoid on both sides while holding the ignition in the crank position, you should have 12 volts on both sides. If not then verify voltage to the solenoid from the battery , if no volts then verify the battery connection at the battery , by testing voltage on the battery post not the battery cable if voltage is ok then the cable needs replaced between the battery and the solenoid.

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run a jumper from your alternator to your battery. This is a temporary fix and should stabilize the voltage and charge the system. It seems there is a short or grounding problem somewhere between the alternator and battery, so you will need follow the wiring but given the age of the vehicle, you should change the wiring from your generator or alternator to your battery. Be sure when you are running a jumper, your gauge wire is heavy enough and make sure the wire isn't hot. This is a temporary fix so don't go on a long road trip.

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2 Answers

1977 Ford F_100 wiring diagram


http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/search.php?query=1977+ford+f_100+wiring+diagram&submit=Go

The link should provide you with a lot of useful info the truck is well just cool. ;)

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Sep 16, 2008 | 1981 Ford F 100

1 Answer

Electrical problem


there is a short on the car electric circuits, or inside the ignition block. If I was in your shoes I would start by replacing the ignition block. This can probably fix it. If it doesn't, you should check the ignition circuit backward to find the short.

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