I have replaced both drivers and passenger side axles, wheel bearings. Change the passenger side caliper, checked the rotors, changed the strut assembly on the drivers side. Alos had it aligned 3 times. While driving you have to hold the steering wheel tight and if you let go- it immediately pulls to the right. I am ready to run it off a cliff. Any suggestions what it could be?
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Congats to you, especially at 53. Go back to the passenger side and check the backing plate/dust cover for the rotor. They do bend or can be bent when doing the work you did. They can and will make noise and get louder when turning. I usually use a screwdriver and go around and bend it away from the rotor. Sometimes I have to pull the tire off, because it is rusted and rubbing towards to center of the rotor.
It could be a bad wheel bearing, and if so it probably is the passenger side, but check them both sides. Raise both wheels off the ground, or one at a time, and rock the wheel back and forth and up and down. The side with the bad bearing will have a lot more play in it.
To replace, the wheel "hub" with sealed bearing inside is replaced. The hub is bolted to the wheel knuckle, which supports the hub, the CV joint and axle shaft, the brake caliper and rotor, and the wheel itself. If you are experienced at car repair and have the proper tools, you can do it yourself. At a shop, expect a 2-4 hour labor bill, maybe under 2 hours if everything comes off easily. The cost of the hub and sealed bearing is probably less than $100, although prices can vary greatly.
Instructions 1.Set the vehicle transmission in "Park" and engage the emergency brake before attempting to remove the front right axle. Place wood blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling and loosen the lug nuts one complete turn on the right front wheel with a tire tool.
2. .Lift the front passenger side of the vehicle with a floor jack and slide a jack stand under the vehicle frame near the wheel. Lower the floor jack so the vehicle is sitting on the jack stand and move the floor jack out of the way.
3. Remove the lug nuts with the tire tool and set the front passenger wheel out of the way. Take the cap off the end of the axle with a standard screwdriver and remove the cotter pin from the axle with a pair of pliers.
4. Slide the crown washer off the axle and loosen the axle nut with a crescent wrench. Unfasten the top and bottom bolts that secure the brake caliper to the rotor with a socket wrench and slide the bolts out of the caliper.
5. Lift the brake caliper off the rotor and remove the brake pads from the caliper. Suspend the brake caliper from the vehicle frame with a wire hanger and take the rotor off the axle.
6. Unfasten the thru-bolt on the vertical sway bar with a socket wrench and remove the bolt from the sway bar. Take the channel bolt out from between the sway bar and lower A-arm that the thru-bolt ran through, and loosen the bolts that secure the front right axle to the center flange with a socket wrench and breaker bar. You may need to loosen the bolts with the breaker bar before removing them with the socket wrench.
7. Slide the front right axle off the center flange and let it rest on the A-arm. Lift the front passenger side up with the floor jack to get enough room between the steering knuckle and A-arm and slide the axle out of the vehicle. Install in reverse order.
Lift the front of your Ford F-250 off of the ground using a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench to prepare the truck for servicing. 2 Open the hood on the engine compartment and take the lid off of the master cylinder that bolts to the brake assister on the driver's side firewall.3 Remove the hex-head bolts on the back of the brake caliper with a socket. With the bolts removed, pull the caliper off of the Ford's brake rotor.4 Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and discard them. Squeeze the brake piston back into the backside brake caliper with pliers, and then insert the new pads into the brake caliper.5 Pull the rotor cap cover off the middle of the rotor with a screwdriver and use a socket to remove the nut located behind the cover.6 Pull the rotor off of the wheel spindle.7 Remove the old wheel bearings from the brake rotor and insert them into the new rotor. If the old wheel bearings are worn, replace them with new bearings.8 Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle and secure it using a bolt and socket. After you tighten the bolt, press the cover back onto the rotor.9 Place the caliper on the rotor and secure it with a socket and hex-head bolts. 10 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the F-250. 11 Close the master cylinder after putting the wheels back on the Ford and lowering it to the ground. Press on the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor Replace the F-250's Rear Brakes 1 lift the rear of the Ford F-250 off the ground with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench.2 Place a strip of paint on the back of the brake drum and rear brake drum cover so you can position the brake drum orrectly when you put it back on. If you plan to install new brake drums on your Ford F-250, skip this step. 3 Place the brake drum puller on the brake drum and pull the drum from the wheel hub. The method for attaching the brake drum puller depends on the brake drum puller that you use. 4 Remove the springs that attach the brake shoes to the wheel hub by pulling them off with pliers.5 Lift the old brake shoes off of the wheel hub and place the new brake shoes on the wheel hub. Secure the new shoes with the springs.6 Pound the brake drum onto the axle hub with a rubber mallet.7 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the Ford.8 Put the wheels back on the F-250, lower it to the ground and, then press on the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the brake drum.
Do both of them. Remove the tires. Pry the caliper assembly to loosen the disc pads. Unbolt the caliper and pull it with the pads off of the rotor. Remove the wheel bearing cap. Extract the cotter pin and take of the wheel bearings and rotor.
It depends. For a regular 1/2 ton and most 3/4 tons no, just remove the caliper and the rotor comes off over the wheel bearing hub. 1 ton suburbans, require more work, you will require a large socket to remove the axle nut, and a slide hammer or 3 jaw puller big enough to pull off the rotor and wheel bearing as an assembly. The rotor on some 3/4 tons and all 1 tons bolt from behind thru the wheel bearing and need to be removed together. The wheel bearing has to be unbolted from the spindle, then the wheel studs have to be punched thru to remove the rotor. The splines on the wheel studs hold the rotor to the wheel bearing. 1 ton will say 3500 on the side, 2500 for 3/4 ton and 1500 for 1/2 tons.
It's a press-in bearing. If you don't have the tools to press the bearing, you can still save some money. Here's what I did: - Drain transmission oil, - Remove front right wheel, - Remove brake caliper, pads, caliper hanger, - Remove the wheel speed sensor (even if no ABS), - Remove the two large strut bolts (100+ lbs ft/lbs of torque), - Remove the ball joint nut, - Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, - Remove the axle from the transmission using a pry bar.
Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle, wheel hub and brake rotor removed from the car, and it'll all be ceased together. Bring the whole thing to your favorite mechanic and get him to separate all these parts and to install the new bearing in the steering knuckle. It'll cost about $100.
Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle with new bearing and hub installed, and the brake rotor. Take these parts home and put the car back together in reverse order.
Seriously consider replacing the axle while you're at it.
Check brakes, then check axle bearing. If brakes check out OK, then jack up so the wheel is off the ground, put car in neutral, now spin the wheel and put one hand on the coil spring, if you feel any roughness, the bearing is bad.
I cannot see it, but I am guessing that you need to replace your axle seal. To do this,you have to pull your CV shaft out. Remove the tire, remove the caliper from the top of the rotor. Using a hammer on the back, remove the rotor. Take off the spindle (axle) nut, separate the axle (CV shaft) from the hub. Replace seal. It should pop right out. Good luck!
Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands Take off wheel remove brake caliper remove caliper bracket remove rotor remove axle retaining nut cotter pin remove axle retaining nut remove axle from output flange pull axle out of vehicle hub and bearing assembly held in by 4 bolts
installation is reverse of removal. You will need to find out the torque specs for the axle retaining nut.