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not possible without a device that pulses the coil on and off, unless you mean you just want to test it? I am confusing cars but most cars now have a dual feeding system or coil over each combustion chamber. You can feed a coil 12v and once you release the gound it will fire but, the coil needs to be attached to a spark plug and the sparkplug needs to be touching a ground source to watch the spark occur after the release of ground.
Could be a short in the coil for the sparkplug. Check the magneto- pull the plug wire off the spark plug and hold it close to the frame of the while someone tries to start it. Keep all parts of your body clear of the mower- only hold the sparkplug wire. When the motor turns over, verify spark from the wire to the frame. If no spark, you likely have a bad magneto coil. If you have a good spark, try taking the air filter off and use some engine starter fluid (not much) and then try and start again. If it starts and runs for a second with the starter fluid, you probably have a problem with your fuel not getting in, which leads to troubleshooting the carb and intake.
it has 2 internal , wasted spark coils. there is not one coil, but looks like 1 large pack but is really not. it has 2 coils inside , 1 running 1and 4 and one running 2 and 3 spark plugs. so are all 4 failing and did you use the correct test, for wasted spark. in that you must test 1 and 4 at once? and 2 and 3 at same time. did you? the fuel pump relay sends 12v to power the coil pack. so if that is dead, so will all spark all 4 sparkplugs. repost stating if you have 1 or All spark dead.
change faulty sparkplug or ht lead,check lead by holding sparkplug end near to engine nearly touching,have someone turn engine over whils checking for spark jumping,if spark present then not lead,change spark plug,if sparkplug ok then check pressure in cylinder, poss piston damage
OK most stock engines for daily street driving use the NGK BUR6 and BUR8 spark plugs the 6's go in the Leading side so the bottom 2 spark plug holes. The 8's go in the Trailing side which is the top 2 spark plug holes.
Now as far as the plug wires. You have 2 coil packs one will have markings by the output tips that say L1 and L2 the other will say T1 and T2. its very simple L= Leading side, or bottom plug. T=Trailing side or top plug. 1=Front rotor, 2=Rear rotor.
Hook up everything that way and you should have no more issues.
Hi there, sounds like this car might have either a bad coil pack or the distributor cap has gone bad. 3 most important things are air, fuel and 12v power. Seems your getting all three but one of them is giving you trouble. Sounds like spark. Try a new distributor cap or a new set of coils and see if that solves the problem.
if it isnt the spark it has to be fuel or air which would lead to lack of fuel pressure which can cause sluggish behavior or the air sensor in the intake if there is any is not working properly and the computer is running on a safety fuel map that is a base map used by manufacturers which burns alot of fuel but stops the engine from destroying it self. Check the coils o the sensors.
Check your spark plugs and wires yourself. Remove one sparkplug at a time from the engine block, plug the wire back on, place the sparkplug on the engine or vehicle body so that the outer thread of the sparkplug would touch the body, or engine (GND) you can secure it with a cellotape or so. Turn the ignition key to the START position and when starter is spinning wach for high voltage sparks appearing between the body,engine or gasket and the tiny black end of the sparkplug called electrode. If there's a sparks, than it's fine, othervise try to get one working sparkplug and to retest this. If now it works then your sparkplugs needs to be replaced. Othervise check the resistance of the high voltage coil primary windings. this should be something between 0.2 and 10 ohms, when coil is disconnected from vehicles wiring. I just do nts remember the exact figure. If multimeter doesn't show anything, replace the coil, otherwise check if the supply current is flowing to the coil plug when IGN is ON. If it's fine then check the COM line at the same plug, using analog muldimeter is the easiest and not harmfull way to do this. If COM isn't comming You might need to go deeper into ECU, or even to replace it. If COM is fine then it would identfy that coil itself is faulty.
Depending on weather its a V6 or 4cyl the are in the center of the engine cover(s) in a row, if its a 4cyl pull the 4 plug leads out and a long spark plug wrench will go down the hole to unscrew the sparkplugs, if its a V6 then unscrew the 6 screw and the pull out the 6 coils from the center of the engine covers to reveal the spark plugs