I don't know where to put the pins on the back of the hood because the style i chose rises up twice starting close to the sides. In the spot i think they should go, is the spot where the hood rises and the pin wouldn't be strait. Any advice would be great.thanks
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Re: installing pin on hood on '93 mustang
If the spot under the hood is flat then u can slightly enlarge the holes for the hood plates and even the they will be at an angle the pins will still be straight and will still fit my 78 z28 track car was the same way the whole hood is contoured and it worked great
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If it's a 4x4 the filter is under the driver side door on the frame, if it's a 4x2 then the filter is ahead of the passenger side wheel on the frame. Pull the fuel pump fuse from under the hood and crank it over to relieve some fuel pressure and ensure that the fuel doesn't shoot out all over the place. Then unscrew the band clamp off of the filter. If the fuel lines have the plastic pin type retainers just pull the pins out and pull out the filter. If it has the metal auto-locking spring couplers then you need a 5/16" fuel line disconnect tool. Wiggle the line/filter, push the tool into the coupler all the way and turn and pull the fittings apart. Put the new filter back in with the flat end facing the rear and push the pins back in/push the couplers back on and re-tighten the band clamp. Put the fuse back in the under-hood fuse panel. Turn the key from off to run about 5 times to cycle the fuel pump and prime the lines. Check to see if there is any gas leaking and if there isn't start it up.
I don't know the above answer that I found can do for you or not. Good luck!
If fuel pump is not coming on, check the relay. The relay is incorporated into the CCRM, which is under the hood at the passenger side wheel well. Back-probe pin 5 of the CCRM connector (dark green wire with yellow stripe) using a 12 volt test light or voltmeter. Connect the other test wire to a good engine or chassis ground point. Pin 5 should be hot when the key is turned on. If not, check pins 11 and 12 in the same way. If pin 11 (light blue/orange stripe wire) is not hot, check the 20 amp fuel pump fuse.
If the pump is working, see if there is a schrader valve on the fuel rail on top of the engine where you can check for fuel pressure by depressing the valve stem. Do this carefully with a rag over the valve to prevent squirting fuel on yourself.
If you have fuel pressure, check for spark using the procedure given at the following post: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines . Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks fopr using FixYa.
With the engine cold top off the radiator with coolant. Start the engine allow it to warm up. Look for any drips or wet spots from cooling system components. Things like Radiators and water pumps would be fairly common. Pin holes in hoses or leaking gaskets may be a little harder to spot.
The make a tool called a cooling system pressure tester that will pressurize the cooling system to make it easier to spot leaks.
Also most shops will check the cooling system for a moderate fee. Once you know what is leaking you can decide if you want to tackle it yourself or let them handle the repair.
I don't have a diagram I can post, but once you install the new chain and have the two timing marks pointing toward each other, then turn the Crankshaft around twice and see if the two timing marks still line up. Remember, the crankshaft turns two times for every one time the camshaft turns.
I understand the 15 vs. 20, but that's neither here nor there. What the Factory Service Manual states is there should be 15 "pins" between the timing marks when the timing chain is set up properly. (?) The links you speak of aren't what you're counting...it's the pins in the chain. In other words, for each link of the Timing Chain, there are two pins, holding it in place...or a total of 48 pins on the length of the entire timing chain. Personally? When I install a timing chain, I rotate the crankshaft around twice to see if the timing marks still match up, and before putting everything back together, I start the Engine for a brief few seconds thereby knowing after reassembling everything, the Engine WILL Start.
If you're still concerned about the 15 pin thing, stop by your local Dealership and look in the Factory manual in Section 9 (Engine), Page 36 for a picture of the 15 so-called "chain-pins."
Find the point on the radiator support where the pins will be located.Be sure there isn't anything underneath to drill through.Measure from the fender to the center point of the hole location,and measure from the front fascia(edge where the front edge of the hood meets the body)to the center point of the hole location.Use these measurements to mark the hole on the hood.Repeat for the other side.MEASURE TWICE DRILL ONCE.
ASSUMING A MUSTANG GT NOT THE FORD GT EXOTIC 5.4 SUPERCHARGED ONE. IF THE ONE YOU HAVE IS A GT MUSTANG IT IS A CALIPER SLIDE PIN AND BOOT. YOU CAN GET A CALIPER PIN SET OR HARDWARE KIT AT THE DEALERSHIP. OT HAS THE BOOTS AND PINS AND 14MM BOLTS TO SECURE CALIPER TO PIN FOR BRACKET RETAINMENT. MAKE SURE YOU PUT GREASE IN HOLES FOR PINS OR THEY MAY SEIZE UP AND WEAR ONE PAD DOWN.
hello you can take a 1/2 in metal drill bit and drill straight through the center seams like a bad idea but does work once you cut the pin off the back it all falls apart then you just turn it to acc. with a screwdriver and install new one
Hi Hodgson, If you want,you can go on alldatadiy.com and buy you vehicle info for under 20 bucks for a year. That will give you all the wire diagrams you need. You will be looking for the vehicle speed sensor signal wire . ( VSS). I would look at the pin out connector of the computer and it will be there. Most of these have 3 wires,one power 5V, and one ground and the other is the signal. Goodluck and let me know if this helps. If you need more info I will be happy to answer any questions you have.Thanks....Dan