Question about 2004 Volkswagen Golf

4 Answers

LOSS OF POWER

Electronic diagnosis has identified faults with the two fuel sensors on my VW FSI 1.4 -2004. These have been replaced --but I am still experiencing serious intermittent loss of engine power.
Any ideas?

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  • alison157 Dec 21, 2008

    Intermitent Loss of Power on VW FSI 1.4 - 2004.

    This has happened several times on my 2004 Golf. It seems to occur when pulling away and after a gear change. Suddnely all acceleration disappears and no matter how much I press on the accelerator there is no power and the car slows. The last time this happened I tried to pull over but suddenly the power returned and I could accelerate again.

    No warning lights are coming on and my garage has replaced the nox sensor and tested.

  • r_martin84 Jan 15, 2009

    I have the same problem on my 1.6 FSI Golf. The garage so far has replaced the fuel pump, pressure switch and the ECU has been reprogrammed by VW. So far its cost me over £400 and the problem is still there

  • swain_derby Feb 23, 2009

    My wife is currently experiencing the same problem in her 04 plate Golf 1.6fsi. The car randomly decides to loose power but no lights come on the dash, it doesn't stall, the steering doesn't go and it doesn't stutter. It just feels like you have no acceleration even with the acc pedal pushed all the way down. Its like something is blocked and you cannot get any more power then it suddenly clears and you get acceleration again. Very dangerous at juctions or on the motorway but VW just offer a computer diagnosis for £80 that they have already told us will not show anything because the engine light hasn't come on and so nothing will be logged.



    Can anyone help?? Apparently its relay 109 on the TDi range (£10) but cannot find a fix like this for petrol 1.6fsi.



    Sounds expensive - Help!

  • Razzy35 May 04, 2009

    My VW Polo TDI kept losing power and I had to keep my foot on the accelerator to keep the car going.

    The garage replaced one of the injectors and the car is perfect now.


  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

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My car has now been sorted.
Turns out it was a problem with the feul pump. cost another £200 to get everything done but its been running fine for a few weeks now.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

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  • Volkswagen Master
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Number of things
1 fuel injectors
2 worn throttle body
3 inside gas tank sending unit filter needs replaced
4 a/c compressor failing
5 replace air filter
6 depending on mileage of vehicle worn cam, bearings oil rings
7 oil and water mixing together (oil will look like chocolate milk on dipstick if this happens
8 not enough air from the electric fan in front of vehicle (hook constant power and a switch with power key off)
9 wrong fuel type (maybe you car requires premium)
10 alternator wareing out and makeing a slow drop in power
11 binding brakes or emergency brake line binding
12 worn sparks plugs wires and electrical unit that houses this
13 worn capacitor looks like a little tear can with power points on it

this is just basic diagnosing without being there to see the vehicle in person these are the things right off the top of my head that i can help diagnose right now
some of these things wont show on a diagnostic cause there more mechanical and sensors wear with mechanical
hope this helped you in your quest

Posted on May 21, 2008

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Volkswagon 2004 golf 2.0 petrol fault codes 17440,17441,17953,18322 the car just lost all its power.pulled over tuned off.restarted all fine.

Posted on Apr 11, 2011

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I have a Golf 1.6 FSI 2004 model. I have just had problems where I was losing power when driving on an incline. When going up something steeper, my speed reduced to around 20mph and I was being overtaken by lorries! to cut a very long story short, after telling VW that I suspected it was exhaust problems, (having experienced such problems on previous vehicles in the past) it took them various diagnostics and referrals back to VW, for the garage to confirm it was infact a problem with the exhaust. It cost me £1300 for them to confirm what I said some months ago what I thought the problem was. It was a case of 'the computer says no'! Because the problem could not be picked up on diagnostics, there was 'nothing wrong with the vehicle'. My advice to anyone after my dealings with 'VW Customer Care', is to say that they don't care at all. As soon as I can be rid of my car...I will, and it will never again be a VW.

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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Hi Nilo Ruperto:
I suggest keep in mind this information about your DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code), these OBDII DTC codes are made up of
1. The 1st character in the DTC indicates a letter which identifies the main system where the fault occurred (Powertrain, Body, Chassis or Network)
2. The 2nd character is a numerical digit which identifies Generic or Manufacturer Specific
3. The 3rd character is also a numerical digit which identifies the specific systems or subsystems where the problem is located.
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12_20_2011_1_09_53_pm.gif

Within each category (Power train, Chassis, Body and Network) of DTCs there are assigned ranges for different vehicle systems.

According with your details (loss power) and the follow list (your code isn't listed), your problem could be in the FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM or some EMISSIONS and EXHAUST RESTRICTIONS...

12_20_2011_1_11_53_pm.gif

First I suggest disconnected the negative cable battery few minutes to make a soft computer reset, remember that generic OBD codes reader could dont show the right answer code; if ypou have the possibilitie to visit some Dodge dealer to scanned PCM (Powertrain Control Module) again to see what codes you have since they were cleared you really don't know if that is an old fault from a previous repair, was caused by someone unplugging a connector while looking for a problem, or is actually a fault that is present.

I would be more concerned about the oxygen sensor code, if that one has reset since they were cleared by your mechanic, that could dramatically affect engine power and fuel economy. Oxygen sensor signal is used by the computer to calculate how much fuel to inject, so if O2 signal is dropping out the fuel mixture when the engine is warmed up will be way off.

Although timing chains can jump, if this happens the engine will be difficult to start and will run very poorly since the valves would be opening at the wrong time, so I suspect that is not the cause of your problem.

One thing that is very common... is a possible exhaust restriction. If you have been driving around with a failing oxygen sensor the fuel mixture will be too rich (too much fuel); this would result in unburned fuel going out the exhaust pipe, and it would then burn in the catalytic converter resulting in catalytic converter damage. the inside of the converter can melt or break apart, partially blocking exhaust flow. You can check for this is a couple of ways. First, reach under the truck when the exhaust is cool and shake the converter or tap on it with something and listen for any kind of rattling noise inside; if it rattles the internal ceramic is broken and the cat needs to be replaced. Your mechanic can also use a pressure gauge to take an exhaust backpressure measurement upstream from the cat; anything over about 1 psi under load indicates a problem. Another quick test is to loosen the exhaust at the engine and drive the truck a short distance to see if power is restored.

Based on your description of the problems, I suspect you may have a faulty front oxygen sensor and a damaged converter as a result.

Other good idea to take a fuel pressure measurement as well. Fuel delivery problems can show up as a low oxygen sensor reading under load, and would result in a power loss under load such as when climbing hills. You may possibly have a weak fuel pump or restricted fuel filter. An exhaust backpressure measurement and a fuel pressure measurement taken when the problem is occurring will likely reveal the source of the difficulty.

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