Code set po335ckp senor.ck 3 pin con. corrosion both at pin con. and on sensor male pin in ckp sensor, replaced sensor clean pin con out with elect.cleaning solvent,check pin key on. three wire, yellow has batt voltage,brown wire has grn. blue 6.2 volt ref. installed new ckp code sets soon as bendex hits flywheel

6. CHECK CKP SENSOR (POS) INPUT SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR OPEN AND SHORT 1. Disconnect ECM harness connector. 2. Check harness continuity between ECM terminal 14 and CKP sensor (POS) terminal 2.continuity should exist. Refer to Wiring Diagram. 3. Also check harness for short to ground and short to power. OK or NG OK >> GO TO 7. NG >> Repair open circuit or short to ground or short to power in harness or connectors. 7. CHECK CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (POS) Refer to EC-326, "Component Inspection" . OK or NG OK >> GO TO 8. NG >> Replace crankshaft position sensor (POS). 8. CHECK GEAR TOOTH Visually check for chipping signal plate gear tooth. OK or NG OK >> GO TO 9. NG >> Replace the signal plate. 9. CHECK INTERMITTENT INCIDENT Refer to EC-147, "TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR INTERMITTENT INCIDENT" . >> INSPECTION END Component Inspection UBS002UJ CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (POS) 1. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor. 2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (POS) harness connector. 3. Remove the sensor. 4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.

Corrosion in the wiring, connections and the male/female pins in the connectors can set this code .

p 0305 is misfire on no 5 cylinder code p1340 refers to camshaft (CMP) sensor 1 bank/ crankshaft position (CKP) sensor ---out of sequence === causes ---valve timing--CMP/CKP sensor installation---CKP sensor rotor
misfires are more injector problems that plugs
take it to an authorized service center for the position senor and valve timing problems

no code with a c but P0455 refers to EVAP system , undo and retighten the gas tank cap ,clear the code and drive for a day and reread codes ,if comes back then you have a gas leak to atmosphere so check all the breather lines to and from the fuel tank for any loose connections etc if none found get a new gas cap

Either one of the sensors is at fault or the timing chain has jumped a cog tooth. I would check out the former option thoroughly as a) it is more likely and b) much easier and cheaper to sort. You need to locate both the crank (CKP) shaft position and cam (CMP) shaft position sensors: How to check? If a sensor has died completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical connections associated with the open circuit. First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy sensor signal from getting through. If the sensor suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.

There are two types of sensor used:

2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.

How to fix? Check the wiring for continuity and that the electrical connection is clean and secure. Remove the CKP and clean off any dirt build up on the tip.

If you strongly suspect the sensor as being at fault it is a relatively inexpensive device to replace.

I would look at the crank position (CKP) sensor, its connection and wiring continuity.

Where is it located? the crank sensor is located on the 'back' of the engine on the edge of the flywheel housing above the starter motor mounting.

A common symptom is Hesitant acceleration, acceleration ceiling - Miss-timed ignition due to a faulty CKP signal can be exacerbated by increased engine speed. The engine maybe run evenly at idle but will fail to accelerate properly at higher revs until the engine reaches a power ceiling
How to check? Often the voltage output from faulty CKP sensors declines with temperature rise so a car that seems to be fine initially can become erratic after 20 minutes. If the CKP has died completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical connections = open circuit. Furthermore spark delivery to the plugs will be absent. First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through. If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.

2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature.

How to fix? Check the wiring for continuity and that the electrical connection is clean and secure. Remove the CKP and clean off any dirt build up on the tip.
If you strongly suspect the crank sensor as being at fault it is a relatively inexpensive device to replace.

Crank position sensor fault. Check that the connection is clean and that the wiring to the PCM has continuity. If it all checks out swap out the CKP. The situation you describe matches the last of symptoms below:

Symptoms of faulty crank position sensor

• Starting difficulty/failure/stall - If the faulty CKP timing problems are severe they may prevent the engine to fire, to fire and then stall, or stall at some random time without warning.
• Hot engine shut off and failure to restart - The engine may start and run perfectly from cold but will begin to misfire or suddenly shut off after about 15 minutes once the engine has reached operating temperature. This effect is due to thermal expansion of the CKP causing an intermittent break in electrical continuity and therefore the signal output to the ECU is interrupted. Sometimes the engine will restart but fail again after a further 15 minutes. On other occasions the engine will not restart until it has completely cooled down.

• Misfire - miss-timed spark delivery caused by a faulty CKP signal can cause misfire and back fire events.
• Hesitant acceleration, acceleration ceiling - Miss-timed ignition due to a faulty CKP signal can be exacerbated by increased engine speed. The engine maybe run evenly at idle but will fail to accelerate properly at higher revs until the engine reaches a power ceiling.

How to check? If the CKP has died completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical connections associated with the open circuit. Furthermore spark delivery to the plugs will be absent. First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through. If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.

2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.

The crankshaft sensor would fit with the symptoms. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise so the temperature at which your CKP was checked over is critical. How to check? First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through. If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output. There are two types of CKP:-

2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC (note well) should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage (again note well) should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. If there is a marked decline in voltage output between hot and cold, replace the CKP. If all looks well apply this diagnostic to the cam position sensor CMP (it works in exactly the same way)

If the CKP has died completely there will be very high resistance between the device's electrical connections associated with the open circuit. Furthermore spark delivery to the plugs will be absent. First check that the electrical connection is clean and secure; dirt or corrosion can impair an otherwise healthy CKP signal from getting through. If the CKP suffers from a drop in voltage associated with heat increase this can only be detectable with a voltmeter or oscilloscope with a graphical display; an analogue display voltmeter might just be able to show needle fluctuations due to voltage variation output.

Look at the electrical connector with the CKP:

2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output). One pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts AC should measure a signal in the 0.2 to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin.

3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output). One pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' and the third pin is 'signal'. A DC voltage should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin.

It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, 20 minutes later, when the engine has fully warmed up to operating temperature. Often the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise.

How to fix? Check the wiring for continuity and that the electrical connection is clean and secure. Remove the CKP and clean off any dirt build up on the tip.

If you strongly suspect the crank sensor as being at fault it is a relatively inexpensive device to replace.

If the above does not solve the issue I would carry out the exact same diagnostic on the cam position sensor. In fact it is not a bad idea to at least test the cam sensor at the same time as testing the crank sensor as they work on very similar principles and are prone to the same faults. Time spent diagnosing the problem can reduce the amount you spend in dollars on spare parts.