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Posted on Sep 21, 2010
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We a vac line on the top of the tranny.cant find where to attached it. the new motor is reall hard to start.it pops and smells like it flooding. it came with the trotle body on the motor should i replace it with the 1 that was on the original motor

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Joseph Prosser

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  • Master 780 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2010
 Joseph Prosser
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Joined: Apr 15, 2010
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The pops and the disconnected vac(uum) line and the smell of fuel may al be related. The vacuum line to the auto transmission is there to tell that gear shift about the level of load that the engine is under. When you first start the car and accelerate really slowly notice how quickly the gear box shifts up through the gears. However if you accelerate hard the transmission holds each gear for a long time to take advantage of the high power delivered by the high engine speed. The vacuum line conveys to the transmission the level of vacuum in the inlet plenum manifold. When you accelerate slowly the throttle plates only opens a small amount and maintains a strong vacuum level. This vacuum permits the transmission to shift up through the gears quickly. If hard acceleration is demanded the throttle plate is fully open and there is almost no vacuum. The lack of vacuum on the transmission restricts gear shifts. The vacuum lie usually makes connection with the transmission on the left (facing towards the front of the car) near the selector switch. The other end of this line must make connection with a port on the inlet manifold plenum or runner (on my car the port connection is actually very close to the injector on the inlet runner towards the back of the engine). The open connection port is causing the other problems. With un-metered air entering the plenum (not passing through the throttle) the engine computer is struggling to keep the injection times long enough to keep the fuel to air mix balanced. This gives rise to very uneven running and perhaps the 'pops' and smell of fuel that you are experiencing. Locate the connection and stick the vacuum line from the transmission on it. Make sure that there no further leaks compromising the inlet vacuum. Make sure the interior of your 'new' throttle is very clean. All of these things help and add up to a better running engine.

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Flooded

engine hard to start smelling fuel first look under hood for signs leaking fuel lines if you raise hood get strong gas smell look for wet fuel leaks on top engine where fuel lines located.if see no leaks could have leak at fuel rails to fuel injectors.if see no leaks look under vechicle around fuel tank area look for fuel dripping.
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Describe your how do i replace 1993 jeep Cherokee radiator

Start steps when vehicle is cold. Drain the rad fluid - located passenger side lower bottom of the rad. When draining remove the rad cap (keep your bucket there for complete job). After empty, the tranny lines must be removed, a tool is available for this - from Parts Source or UAP. They join at the bottom of the rad, after removing (don't break the clips or lose them) keep the lines upright to avoid draining the tranny fluid. Undo the 2 bolts holding the fan shroud, slowly and gently push the shroud towards the motor (do not bend the tranny lines attached to the rad). Then lift up and move to the motor. Undo the clamps holding both rad hoses, drain the bottom hose into the bucket. Undo the 8 screws or bolts (10mm ??) holding the top plate that keeps the rad stationary - the hood latch is connected to it, move it towards the front of the vehicle. Pretend you are dismantling a bomb, one wrong move and you will be replacing more than a rad. Lift the rad straight up, watching everything in the way. With the rad on the ground with the tranny lines pointing upright, spray WD40 on the tranny lines and undo them (inspect for any holes). Be smooth when you do it or you will be buying new ones. Start with last step first when you install new rad.
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How to take out my 1993 jeep cherokee grand laredo 4.o radiator. in line six cid

Start steps when vehicle is cold. Drain the rad fluid - located passenger side lower bottom of the rad. When draining remove the rad cap (keep your bucket there for complete job). After empty, the tranny lines must be removed, a tool is available for this - from Parts Source or UAP. They join at the bottom of the rad, after removing (don't break the clips or lose them) keep the lines upright to avoid draining the tranny fluid. Undo the 2 bolts holding the fan shroud, slowly and gently push the shroud towards the motor (do not bend the tranny lines attached to the rad). Then lift up and move to the motor. Undo the clamps holding both rad hoses, drain the bottom hose into the bucket. Undo the 8 screws or bolts (10mm ??) holding the top plate that keeps the rad stationary - the hood latch is connected to it, move it towards the front of the vehicle. Pretend you are dismantling a bomb, one wrong move and you will be replacing more than a rad. Lift the rad straight up, watching everything in the way. With the rad on the ground with the tranny lines pointing upright, spray WD40 on the tranny lines and undo them (inspect for any holes). Be smooth when you do it or you will be buying new ones. Start with last step first when you install new rad.
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shift into 4wd and move truck a couple of feet.
if light is still off, park truck block the wheels set the park brake jack right front wheel and try to hand spin the wheel if wheel doesn't turn 4x4 is functioning properly but there is a wiring problem use an ohmmeter to check the 4x4 switch wiring fuse and bulb
if wheel turns freely the front axle or transfer case is not engaged
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if the driveshaft will not spin the transfer case is engaged properly
with trnsmission in neutral or park start engine measure vacuum on the two vac lines at front axle shift motor . one line should have approx 20" vacuum. other line should have none
if no vacuum measured look for vac leak or bad vac switch
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does shift motor plunger move at least 1/2 inch
no shift motor bad
yes check axle shift fork and vac motor for binging
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