The car was running fine, then would turnover but not start.Initially the "Check engine" and other dash lights would not come on when turning the ignition on so I could not get the diagnostic code. I began testing the ignition switch. I pulled fuses 19 (air bag) and 20 (radiator fan) when I turned the key to check voltage my dash lights came on and the car would start. If I tried to put either fuse back in the car died.With the fuses out I was able to get the following reading.12 33 35 35 31 32 55. I got a book so I know the codes are AC, Fan, EVAP, EGR.As long as I don't put the fuses in, the car runs but the "Check engine" AND "Air bag" light stays on. Do I have computer problems, ignition switch, or just a lot of different problems?
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Do you have the check engine light on?
There are some relays (I think they are in the engine compartment) that could be check. It sounds like a relay problem.
If the check engine is on, it could be a sensor, and the computer is sending the wrong information. Have it check by a professional.
The problem sounds very much as if it is on the electrical side. OK so here is the path: Battery, Ignition switch position 2 and fuel pump is engaged, position 3 and current passes through the starter fuse and relay to the starter solenoid (located piggy back on the starter motor) The starter solenoid pushes the starter motor armature forward to engage with the toothed rim of the flywheel. At the same time the armature bridges the contacts between the high power contacts to cause the motor to spin up and turn the engine over.
Check the external stuff first. Make sure the battery terminal and cable connections are clean and tight. Make sure the earth return strap from the engine block to the car body is intact, clean and secure, free of corrosion (unbolt, wire brush clean and re-bolt). Remove starter motor and solenoid, dismantle and check on the heavy duty electrical power striker plate contacts for wear, replace as necessary (often these starter motors are by Denso and replacement kits for the copper contacts can be got for less than $10). Check the main starter fuse, clean the contacts until bright. Check the starter relay. If possible remove the cover and inspect the printed circuit board, resolder any dry or annular cracked joints. Pass a folded piece of fine sand paper between the electrical breaker contacts to freshen them up. Make sure the relay pins and corresponding sockets are all clean and bright.
The above sounds like a lot of work but once it is done and you are reassured that everything is as it should be you will not need to re-examine this for another ten years or more.
Lastly, make sure the ignition switch is OK. Contacts can become worn and if you find that a wiggle the ignition barrel with the key in results in 'start' versus 'no start' then the fault is here.
There are plenty reasons for the check engine to come, from fuel system malfunction to timing belt sensor, you need to get the car somehow to a garage and perform a diagnostics test, that will tell you what is wrong.
check all battery leads and earth straps
"" car body and engen bay straps""
also check battery terminals are tight check its full of battery water too if its been low for a time bump it!
and have a ""drop meeter test"" done on the battery if its a bad battery it should show that up first time it could have cracked plates inside the battery its self, test by turning on head lights then hit starter, if every thing go's dead!!!! put ""good jump start"" battery on to car and try it again,,, all should work just fine then,,,,it could just be a flat battery?????
I had the same issue that has evolved into the car starting and idling for 2-3 seconds then stalling. After doing this five times it won't turn over at all. All the dash lights are on but no turn over. After the car sits for appoximately 15-30 minutes, it starts and runs fine for 3-4 weeks then does it again. I was told this is due to the camshaft and crank position sensors needing replaced.
major suspect here is a bad ground... you likely loosened or compromised it when at headlamp bucket area.. remove battery again and check for its negative side to be secure adn all otehr wiring there to be clean and secure..good luck and advise
I have a similar problem with my 94 concorde... and was advised the on board computer was in need of replacement. Further research led to pulling the computer and cleaning the ground connection to the chassis. It will sometimes leak under the computer and corrode, and compromise the ground, which in turn will cause faulty "code" readings and the engine control light to come on.