There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.
The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.
That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.
If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.
To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
The same principal applies to HEI (High Energy Ignition) ignition systems with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap.
Check the ECM fuse and the ignition coil. The other issue that could cause this would be bad ICM (ignition control module). You can remove the ICM and have it tested at Auto Zone, Napa or most auto parts store.
The ICM is to expensive to just change if it's still in good working order. Good luck and thank you for using fixya
SOURCE: wont start
Make sure that you're getting spark. A very common thing on these engines are coils going bad. If you can verify spark, check to make sure you have an injector pulse. As you rotate the engine, look inside of the throttle body and make sure that you see fuel pulsing into the engine. You can still have good pressure but you don't have an injector pulse, the fuel still cant get into the engine. You can use a test light as well to test for an injector pulse. One wire going to the injector will have constant power and the other will blink when the engie is rolled over. Does it start if you spray starting fluid into the throttle body? If it does, it's a fuel delivery problem. Again be sure you have spark from coil to distributor and plugs. You can remove the ignition module and take it to NAPA and they have a module tester. Have them test the module several times not just once. This will eliminate the possibilites of an intermitted problem. Let me know how it does. [email protected]
SOURCE: 2000 Chevy Blazer Cranks but wont start...
What about the fuel filter????? Have you changed it out??? If you can spary something like a started fluid, that means it is a fuel problem. My last check, it has to be above 50-psi on the fuel pressure to make it run right. I had 35psi, but whould not get over 30mph or down hill maybe 45mph. Check both filter & pressure, but check pressure with a New fule filter!!!!
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