TOOK THE TURBO REPLACE THE GLOW PLUG,PUT FUEL LINES ON PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND NOW IT ACTS LIKE THERE IS KNOW FUEL GOING THROW,NEED TO FIND A SCHEMATCS TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IN THE RIGHT PLACE,HE SAYS THE GLOW PLUG ISN,T WORKING
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Many things to check. Wonder if this work was done to alleviate problem or problem was from doing the work.
Putting gas fumes in a 21:1 compression cylinder is sure way to ruin engine.
2 possible problems are losing your diesel fuel draw from an air leak in the fuel lines and an inoperative glow plug timer.
When you change a fuel filter you lose the vacuum lock that is in the fuel lines. Some mechanics add fuel to the new filter to remove some of the air and promote fuel draw. The O rings on the injector lines are a special type which resists petroleum products. Using cheap O rings will cause problems.
Glow plug timer-there is a power Relay to the timer and the timer itself is a type of Relay. You should hear clicking noise and lights should dim as timer provides power to the glow plugs.
Other things to check would be the Vacuum pump as Diesels work differently than gas engines and require a pump to supply Vacuum. Covering the intake suggests engine needs a Vacuum draw.
Weak fuel pump. Too weak to pressurize or draw fuel. Can be measured with pressure gauges.
Really bad rings could also cause symptoms.
Would be interested knowing what proved to be wrong.
Is the glow plug timer opperating for long enough ? and do you wait for glow light to go out before starting? On real cold days there could be a problem with fuel waxing up in the lines, your heaters would compensate for this. some add a little kerrosene to the fuel. check with your fuel supplier. There is also a verry good Wynns product that lowers the freezing piont of the wax in deisel so that freezing is less likley to occour. hope this helps
2 items that will put you back on the road. The glow plug controller When you turn the key on do you hear it. Its on the left rear of the engine above the rocker cover to the left of the turbo charger the glow plus is a assistant to aid in starting, There are two type of controller its either a rely or a solid state, Cycle the key it should come on for 2 seconds. cycle the key again. then start it,if it start get a glow plug control.now if it doesnt start are you willing to use either(its called instant start) use the one for diesel. did it start and stay running. if it stays running glow plug control is needed. Now if it didnt stay running and shuts right of youll need to replace the cam sensor, the cam sensor is located in the right side of timing cover behind the water pump pulley. They are plaque with damage. inspect the cam sensor and the connector for damages, If the camsensor rattles its defective. This cam sensor are failing left and right oh by the way carry an extra one the are common failures
Check all of your glow plug wires, if they are all on it may be your glow plugs or your fuel pump, glow plugs are cheap and dont cost much and are easy to replace. fuel pumps are not cheap and are very complicated to replace. I hope this information helped. Be careful and drive safe!
what you need to do is add some sulfur additive to the fuel to build the viscosity rateing and also check the glow plug realy itselfs to make sure when it fires that voltage is actaully getting to the glow plugs
first of all the glow plugs are located under the valve covers. be sure to disconect both neg bat wires before starting. remove valve covers , the gaskets are reusable but take care not to damage the wires. the glow plugs will have a single wire plugged into the top. remove wire from plug and with an ohm meter set to sound put one lead to the wire connecter on the plug and the other to the head. if you have good contact that plug is ok. reconnect wire and go to the next. when you find one with no connection its bad. after all a glow plug is basicaly a direct short that causes heat. i believe it takes a 10mm deep socket to remove. make sure that you use anti sieze compound on the threads. good luck
If you just want to change the seal at the fuel lines, you may be able to if you have enough patience and a few specially bent wrenches. It is much easier to remove the turbo. If you do remove the turbo don't forget to replace the two o-rings. If you want to remove the pump completly (most of the time a new pump is needed to repair a leak), then I would remove the fuel supply tube bolt from the back of the pump, remove the fuel lines from both heads, replacing the grommets with the updated grommet which resist breaking apart from the newer fuels. Then remove the two bolts from the pump and rotate the engine by hand untill the pump comes up about a half inch. This way if the tappet falls out of the pump the cam lobe will be up enough that it will not fall down into the engine. Then you can replace the o-ring at the bottem of the pump and all the rest of the seals or the entire pump. Don't forget when going back together seat the pump and then rotate the engine by hand again untill the pump sits almost flush and then torque everything. The fuel supply tube should be about 40 ft. lbs. The bolts are probably around 120 inch lbs like everything else but just use good judgement. You can make a clicking sound while using a regular ratchet if it makes you feel better.
do not understand you what you mean. assuming your car was ok before you changed f/filter you need to bleed the fuel system of air. esiest to do would be to loosen fuel line at the injectors and have assistant crank the engine while you observe for clear fuel leak without any air bubbles from fuel line.tighten fuel lines and start engine. might have to repeat a few times. good luck.