Electric cooling fan does not come on at any time,even when a/c is on checked fuse , it;s ok.
Checked fan ,it's ok ..difficult to check fan relay , looks different , not like a normal looking relay .it's square and flat , possible solid state style.
Would like to know how to diagnose this problem
The fan relay is located below the r/h headlight bezel and below the plastic moulding. I am replacing the second one in two years. You have to cut a hole 1.5" from the verticle wall at the back of the headlight cavity 2"X2"centered on what looks like a rain gutter in the plastic moulding to access the relay screws. Save the piece you cut out ...you'll want to silicone seal up the rain gutter after. Hope this helps. D
To test a replay you must ground one pole, (86 I believe) and
give power to another (56 I think) they will be next to each other or
1-2 pins apart, if you hear a click when you give it power and ground
the relay is good
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no engine stated, nor which fan. (up to 4)
under what conditions, they dont run full time.
which ones? human cooling fan, (or engine)?
the 4.0L has 2, called the hybrid fan system.
one on the engine water pump end,. and one electric.
the behind engine radiator fan? electric ? or hydraulic.?
did you scan it yet, OBD2 scan tool to see if there are power issues?
like DTC P1499?
did you read the FSM?
chapter 7 yet.
if the motor does fail, for fan did you do the fSm hot wire test?
page 7-47 (2 fuses checked)
same page, did you read the DTC statement on that page.
it says , the relays are monitors, and reported if bad.
page 27 to 32, (both engines, not stated)
as you read there, the 4.7L is totally different. (hydraulic fan drive called the G-rotor)
well the electric fan will turn on and off at any time. when you stop your vehicle and the fan continues to run what is happening is the temp sensor says the motor is still too hot and it needs more cooling. now as it reaches the cooling temp it is also suppose to shut it down. have the sensors checked.
Check your temperature sending unit. Here's how it works: sending unit sends a message to the computer telling it it's hot. Computer sends a ground signal to the relay that in turn completes the circuit to the fan. If the temp sender does not do that and the computer, fuse, relay and wiring are good, the fan won't come on.
If the electric cooling fan is inoperative, check the 15A fuse in the junction block and the 40A fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) with a 12 volt test lamp or DVOM. Refer to the inside of the PDC cover for the exact location of the fuse.
be sure the fan itself is still in working order.. if so you can also run a hot wire to fan, replacing the factory wires.. you can stilll us the factory ground wire.. just be sure to put a fuse on the hot wire just incase it shorts out..never can be to careful... this will save u a couple hundred bucks... hope this will help you...keith....
Usually the electric fan(s) are temperature activated. I would look into the temp switch. If you're not sure what it is, go to the auto parts place and ask for one. This way you can look at it then hunt for it under the hood. It usually screws into the engine in the cooling system. Also, make sure the fan has a good ground. Check for power to the fan when the engine warms up. If you have a/c, turn it on and the fan should come on whether the engine is warm or not.
When the engine is at operating temp check the electric cooling fan. If it is not moving then i would check the fan relay which is located under the right side headlamp. 9 times out of 10 this is the problem
the only problem that vehicle has is with cooling fans is relay/module or electrical harness to module that burns up located behind and under right front headlamp assy must remove headlamp to access relay/module that is what powers up fan motor module assy.