Has anyone had problems with Reduced Eng. Power/Stability control disabled/svc 4 whl drive? Had continual problems with these msgs. Today was first time that vehicle would not go over 20 mph when these lights came on. Dlr. changed battery, another shop was unsure. Afraid to go anywhere now as it is happening more and more. 44,000 miles, of course, just out of warranty when this began. Any help would be great.
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Re: 2004 GMC Yukon XL Reduced Eng power
It sounds like it could be your pcm power control module. only because there are so many different lights coming on at once. or and this may sound stupid but check under the drivers seat. there is a ontrol box there. push the connector and make sure its connected... Believe it or not.. when the seat moves it can tug on the cable. It did on mine and I lost the fuel pump and the fuel guage. I also lost traction control. I had the pump replaced and of course it worked when i drove it out of the dealer only to stop 2 days later... By chance i came accross a web page.. I cant find it now. and a guy had the same problem and it took 4 weeks for the dealer to find out it was under the seat. I check mine frequently and have not had a problem since... lucky for me the fuel pump was under warrenty.
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I've had the reduced engine power mode happening intermittently below 40 degrees for the last year on my 2007 Yukon Denali XL. I do not wish to play the game of throwing parts at it by some incompetent repair shop so I've read and researched for many hours! I JUST MIGHT HAVE THE BEGINNINGS OF AN ANSWER. On one of the many forums, can't remember where, someone mentioned they felt like the butterfly was sticking on the throttle body in cold temps. He said, after warming up the engine, he would rev it several times to "loosen it". Sounded ridiculous but it has worked for me for the last 2 weeks. Now, I think the engine power reduced mode is the result of many different running issues but a lot of people complain about this during colder months. Here's a couple of my scenarios: I'm driving down the highway and I can feel it start to "miss" or faintly "cut-out" for several minutes. This is sort of a warning that shut down mode is coming. I pull over, put it in park or neutral and just rev the engine 4-6 times. Put it back in drive and get back on the road. I always make the rest of my 45 minute journey without incident. Scenario 2: it's cold outside and the check engine light comes on. Another warning sign for me that shut down mode is enivitable. I do the same procedure of pulling over, revving it 4-6 times and just go on with my travels. By doing this preemptive routine I have not had the shut down mode problem in the last 2 weeks except for one time when I had just left the house and it hadn't had sufficient warm up time to do the revving procedure yet. It seems to be a short-lived fix that doesn't last more than a couple of days but it has me feeling better about explaining to a mechanic, when I do finally take it in, as to what to look for and how I seem to fix the issue albeit temporarily. My next report will come when it is fully repaired by a "competent" shop. Hope this helps a few of you as its really a free test case diagnostic !
I had the same problem in my Yukon Denali And after 4 throttle body's, replacing gas pedal, rewiring the grounds replacing sensors, took it to not one but two GMC dealerships who were useless they can't fix their own trucks they're not the brightest !!!! After thousands of dollars I found a mechanic very familiar with this issue you want the solution it will cost ya 500$ for me to tell ya!! Just kidding I know how frustrating this problem is okay here is the fix the problem is these electric throttle bodies are GARBAGE!!!!!!! Don't matter what u do or what u replace it will come back on unless u convert your electric throttle body to the old cable throttle the actual fix was 900$ but I spent thousands and thousands trying to fix it!!! Please save your money and tell ur mechanic u want to convert to the old cable throttle!!! Gmc is well aware of the problem but won't fix it for u cuz they're useless
Wheel hub bearing . When the ABS see's a problem will disable traction control an ABS an will turn on RED brake light as well . Fluid level has nothing to do with it .
Refer to ABS Description and Operation in Antilock Brake Systems