Question about 1997 Chrysler Cirrus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 97 sebring lxi, 2.5L -
first thing you got to do is determen weather its electrical or fuel problem, you can take a test light and hook to a ground and the light end to a spark plug and see if it lights while someone turns over engine, if it lights you got spark. if its got spark, on to fuel, take fuel pressure test, don't think because you can hear pump working does not mean it is, it can sound like it is but its not, at least putting out enought pressure, not the correct amount it will not run. pumps will go out just that way with no warning at all.
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
Don't buy it. My husband and I have a 1996 Cirrus and it is a money pit. We have only owned the thing for a short while but we have already had to fix some major problems - and now the horn won't stop honking and the shim we are using to stop it from doing so is no longer working. We are going to have to take apart the steering column and disable the horn at this point. Hope its not connecting to any of the tail lights!
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
Mine is doing the same thing. My check engine light did finally come on and when a reader was put on it the code is P0505 on the reader. When I looked that up it said "Idle air control system". I phoned my mechanic and he said to bring it in next week before it turns into a more serious problem. So far it hasn't stalled, but it makes me nervous. I am on oxygen, so I don't want to get stuck somewhere if it breaks down. So it will be going in for sure.
Hope it isn't expensive as I am on disability.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
Have somone check the timing belt make sure it has not jumped any teeth common problem on a old car with high mileage.
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
Testimonial: "I verified the problem was the timing belt. I thought it was the MAP sensor but turns out, timing belt was about to break, thanks."
The #2 O2 sensor should be found "down stream" from the catalytic converter. When you crawl under the vehicle, follow the exhaust pipe from the engine to the catalytic converter. Right before the converter, you'll see one of the oxygen sensors. (That's number 1.) When you follow just past the catalytic converter, you'll see another one. (That's number 2, the one you're looking for.)
The role of the #2 O2 sensor is to make sure not only that the #1 sensor is actually doing its job of maintaining a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio governed by the computer, but it's also making sure that the catalytic converter is not only present, but also that it's doing its job as well.
This isn't a very expensive part, it's easy to find, and will require an O2 sensor socket to do the job. Make sure you don't use any grease on the new sensor! It can actually render it unusable and cause your check engine light to come on again.
That reminds me...When you change out your #2 O2 sensor, in order to turn off the Check Engine light, you'll need to take it somewhere such as an auto parts store like Advance Auto Parts, who have a scanner to connect to your car's computer and clear the fault code. Otherwise, your computer will have to count a certain amount of ignition cycles before it determines that all is well with your emissions system.
Good luck, have fun, and I hope this helps! :)
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
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