Question about Mitsubishi MT160, MT160D, MT180, MT180D, MT180H, MT180HD, MT210, MT210D, MT250, MT250D, MT300, MT300... (TRM1)

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3 poiny hookup

I removed the 3 point arms to replace a broken shaft and don't remember the steps of replacing them. A picture would be nice.
Charles Tilley

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I have a MT160D Mitsubishi...and here are some pics of how the whole mess should go back together.....
Jerry S in California3 poiny hookup - 6eece1b.jpg

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Here is a picture of my MT210D. Hope it helps.

SEIhde3 poiny hookup - 612226e.jpg

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

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Latitude. How can I replace control arm and ball joint assembly?


Lower you can do fairly easy. Upper, a bit tougher.For the upper you will need a spring compressor.

Mar 21, 2016 | 2011 Jeep Patriot

1 Answer

Volvo windshield wipers don't work


From the wiper motor, the wiper linkage attaches to both wiper arms. If one side is working, then that indicates that your motor is working, and the linkage to at least 1 wiper arm is working.

What's left? The linkage to the other arm, and the connection of the arm to the pivot shaft assembly. Let's find out:

1. Remove the inoperative wiper arm. You will expose the shaft that the wiper arm attaches to. It will have a head on it that looks like a small peanut butter cup, with shallow ridges or splines all the way around it. This can be formed on the end of the shaft, or it can be a separate piece that is removable. If you don't see it, it may have come off with the wiper arm, so look for it to be still embedded in the wiper arm hole. Once you find it, how do those splines look? Are they stripped? If so, they may be rotating within the arm instead of rotating the arm itself.

2. Run the wipers again. Is the shaft rotating? If it is, then the arm and/or splines were the problem, and you need to replace withever component had the stripped splines, whether the arm or that p-nut butter cup splined part. (Or both, if you want to be extra safe and not have to mess with it again for a while.) If you're lucky, it'll be a separate piece that you can replace easily. If not, it'll be formed as part of the wiper linkage, and you'll have to replace the whole linkage. If it's just the arm that's stripped, replace the arm. Easy.

3. If the shaft does NOT rotate with the arm removed, then the linkage is broken, usually at the connection where the wiper shaft connects to the long arm that hooks both wiper shafts together. The bushings are often plastic, and they wear out. If it's plastic, you can get a replacement at the dealer, which will be nice, new plastic to last however long this one did. But if the linkage is metal all the way along, you'll have to do more work than with the easily replaceable plastic connection.

3b. To gain access to the linkage on most vehicles, remove both wiper arms. Next, remove the (usually) black plastic vented piece under & around the wiper shafts. This should allow access to the wiper linkage.

For those who who have neither wiper working and were hoping this would cover it, you're in luck. If neither wiper is working, here's how to test the system:

1. Turn the key to ON.
2. Turn on the wipers.
3. Listen for the sound of the wiper motor. LIsten in the cab, but also in the engine compartment as well. If you hear it but have no wiper movement, your motor is fine and the linkage is the issue.
3b. If you do not hear any motor sounds in the cab or the engine comartment, it's either the motor or the switch (I assume you've checked the fuse already).
4. Check the wiper motor: Does it have a connector for the wires, or just one wire. If it has one wire, remove that wire and check it for voltage with a multi-meter or test-light. If you have a connector, you'll need to know what wire is which. Maybe. Most of the time, the motor is grounded thru the body, so if you remove the bolts and move the motor away from the body, you can check for voltage between the motor and body.
5. If you have no voltage, then it's the switch or wiring, or possibly the resistor, if equipped. If you DO have voltage at the motor, but no motor movement, the motor is bad and must be replaced.

Apr 19, 2013 | 1996 Volvo 850

1 Answer

Front drivers wiper not working


I have the same problem. When I removed the drivers side wiper arm, I found that the nut that held the arm in place was only finger tight, which allowed the arm to raise slightly off the splined shaft. This caused the shaft to strip the splines out of the wiper arm.. after inspecting and cleaning the shaft, it appears that the splines on the shaft are still in decent shape. You may need to only replace the wiper arm. About $50 at a few online toyota parts sellers. replacing it is simple and requires only a flat blade screwdriver to remove the black cap off the nut, and a wrench to remove and replace the nut. simply remove the nut, and pop off the wiper arm. push the new arm onto the splined shaft pointing the same place as the passenger side wiper, then tighten the nut down. I would also suggest wiping the metal shavings off the splined shaft with some sort of abrasive pad, like scotchbrite, before putting the new wiper arm back on. I hope this helps.

Jan 27, 2013 | 2007 Toyota Highlander

1 Answer

How do i remove the front drive shafts on a 97 mazda b2600 4wd to replace the cv boots?


When you did the ball joints you should have pulled the axles

I would guess that you know the axle nut has to come off & that
in most cases you break the bottom ball joint loose, so you can
get the axle out of the steering knuckle

So I will guess you can't get the axle out of the trans

You use a long pry par,3 foot or more & put the end against
a piece of wood, so as not to pry on the aluminum trans case

Then you pop it out with the pry bar.
You don't pry on the axle ,you use the side of the pry bar
to bang it with the end against the wood

Sep 26, 2012 | 1986 Mazda 323

1 Answer

Engine randomly cut out while driving or idiling,,, sometimes starts right back up other times takes a couple minutes... Cause?????


Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John

Apr 23, 2012 | 1984 Ford Mustang

2 Answers

Clinking noise when a bump is hit or turning corner.Suspect suspension, but don't know were to start.


i would start by checking the wheel barrings on the side of clicking located just behind the brake assembly

1 remove the tire ( on side of clicking )
2 remove the brake assembly ( remembering how it all goes back together )
3 remove the rotor

you should see the wheel pins that hold on your tire give that a turn and have a listen for
grinding, clicking, squeeking, or any other abnormal noises

you can at the same time check your balljoints located on the upper and lower part of the control arm
look for busted/broken boots and or some play by moving your control arm up and down and side to side

Sep 03, 2011 | 2002 Nissan Xterra

3 Answers

How easy is it to replace the front wiper motor on a 2004 ford escape ? Where is it located ?



Front Wiper Motor
Removal & Installation

NOTE A new wiper motor assembly comes with the linkage arm installed.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove the windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft
    WARNING Do not remove the wiper motor linkage arm from the wiper motor assembly. If the arm is removed, the wiper arms may not park in the correct location.
    NOTE Use a suitable tool to separate the wiper linkage arm from the wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft assembly.
  3. Remove the 3 bolts and the wiper motor.

    7f7866e.gif

    Fig. Wiper motor and linkage

To install:
  1. Install wiper motor and bolts.
  2. Tighten wiper motor bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
  3. Install windshield wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft.
  4. Check wiper operation.

Rear Wiper Motor
- Removal & Installation
  1. Remove the rear pivot arm.
  2. Remove the rear wiper motor shaft nut cover
  3. Remove the rear wiper motor shaft nut.
  4. Open the lift gate window.
  5. Remove the rear wiper motor cover trim panel.
  6. Disconnect the electrical connector.
  7. Remove the 2 rear window wiper motor nuts
  8. Remove the rear window wiper motor.

    79be491.jpg
    Fig. Rear wiper motor view-2008 model shown, other years similar

To install:
  1. Install rear wiper motor and tighten mounting nuts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  2. Reconnect the electrical connector.
  3. Install wiper motor cover trim panel.
  4. Install rear wiper pivot arm tighten nut to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
  5. Install shaft nut cover.
  6. Check wiper operation.

Good luck (remember rated this post).

Feb 25, 2010 | 2004 Ford Escape

2 Answers

Drivers wiper won't move. passenger wiper does. 2002 toyota corol


You don't have 2 motors; only 1. ...well, 1 front, 1 back, if equipped. From the wiper motor, the wiper linkage attaches to both wiper arms. If one side is working, then that indicates that your motor is working, and the linkage to at least 1 wiper arm is working.

What's left? The linkage to the other arm, and the connection of the arm to the pivot shaft assembly. Let's find out:

1. Remove the inoperative wiper arm. You will expose the shaft that the wiper arm attaches to. It will have a head on it that looks like a small peanut butter cup, with shallow ridges or splines all the way around it. This can be formed on the end of the shaft, or it can be a separate piece that is removable. If you don't see it, it may have come off with the wiper arm, so look for it to be still embedded in the wiper arm hole. Once you find it, how do those splines look? Are they stripped? If so, they may be rotating within the arm instead of rotating the arm itself.

2. Run the wipers again. Is the shaft rotating? If it is, then the arm and/or splines were the problem, and you need to replace withever component had the stripped splines, whether the arm or that p-nut butter cup splined part. (Or both, if you want to be extra safe and not have to mess with it again for a while.) If you're lucky, it'll be a separate piece that you can replace easily. If not, it'll be formed as part of the wiper linkage, and you'll have to replace the whole linkage. If it's just the arm that's stripped, replace the arm. Easy.

3. If the shaft does NOT rotate with the arm removed, then the linkage is broken, usually at the connection where the wiper shaft connects to the long arm that hooks both wiper shafts together. The bushings are often plastic, and they wear out. If it's plastic, you can get a replacement at the dealer, which will be nice, new plastic to last however long this one did. But if the linkage is metal all the way along, you'll have to do more work than with the easily replaceable plastic connection.

For those who who have neither wiper working and were hoping this would cover it, you're in luck. If neither wiper is working, here's how to test the system:

1. Turn the key to ON.
2. Turn on the wipers.
3. Listen for the sound of the wiper motor. LIsten in the cab, but also in the engine compartment as well. If you hear it but have no wiper movement, your motor is fine and the linkage is the issue.
3b. If you do not hear any motor sounds in the cab or the engine comartment, it's either the motor or the switch (I assume you've checked the fuse already).
4. Check the wiper motor: Does it have a connector for the wires, or just one wire. If it has one wire, remove that wire and check it for voltage with a multi-meter or test-light. If you have a connector, you'll need to know what wire is which. Maybe. Most of the time, the motor is grounded thru the body, so if you remove the bolts and move the motor away from the body, you can check for voltage between the motor and body.
5. If you have no voltage, then it's the switch or wiring, or possibly the resistor, if equipped. If you DO have voltage at the motor, but no motor movement, the motor is bad and must be replaced.

Jun 13, 2009 | 2002 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

I need step by step instructions to replace front struts.


1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck !

Mar 14, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Front axle how to remove half shaft


Hi.. The step to remove the front Axles of you Vitara.
Raise and support Vehicle . Remove front wheel,
Drain Diff,fluid,
Remove Locking Hub if is equipaded,
Remove Circle clip from axle shaft
On right side of Vehicle, Remove the Stabilizer Little ball joint nut. Remove castle nut Front Tie rod end,
Remove mounting bolts from brake calipper,
Remove Calipper from steering knuckle and wire a side.
Remove Stud Nut from steering knuckle,
Support Lower suspension arm with a jack,
Remove lower strut bracket bolt ,
Lower jack and disconnect Knuckle from lower suspension crontrol arm,
Pull Outler joint from Hub.
Use Large screwdriver or Prybar To pry Right inner joint from differential, The axle will go out making a little froce with the prybar,
To remove the left side,
Remove mounting bolt from inner joint flange,
Pull out axle from hub.

To reinstall just reverse the prosses.

I hope this help on your job...
Thank you for use fixya....


Aug 18, 2008 | 1999 Suzuki Vitara

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