Question about 1995 Ford Aspire

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Axle and hub repair

How to remove the locknut?...
is it asymmetrical?

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Its pretty easy to do, you will need a 1/2 inch drive 19 or 21 mm socket, I got a set made for impact tools ( strong ) for 10 bucks at big lots, a torque wrench capable of reading 75 ft./ lbs, These can be pricey, ask around and see if anyone can lend you one, if that has no luck then buy one at sears. You will also need a jack, jackstands, rubber gloves degreaserm brake dust remover, a parts washer is a good idea, rags, bearing grease(synthetic is best), new bearings, new cotter pins, new dust seals and a flat level firm surface to work on. First step, get all the stuff I just mentioned, and stuff Im gonna mention later in this rambling post, before you do anything. It makes the end result much safer easier and more reliable than new. at the flat spot, park the vehicle in gear, key removed from ignition switch and placed outside vehicle all tools and parts removed from vehicle and emergency brake engaged. You should get a 1/2" drive breaker bar and 14 mm socket and loosen the lug nuts, make sure the hub is cool when you do this. After both sides are done release the emergency brake and jack the vehicle up at the axle beam, then put the jackstands underneath the outer body lip. remove the wheels and tires and place off to the side or use for a seat, remember to put something on the tire before you sit on it, I know some of yall are trying to do this in your rocawear shirt either to ******** your ex or be crazy because of summer madness. Next, youll need a large slotted adjustable plier big enough to pry off the 2 1'2 inch dust cap in the center of the hub. Clean off any excess grease and you will see a large cotter pin. Pry each arm of the cotter pin down with a pair of needlenose pliers so the pin is straight.pull the cotter pin out with the needlenose pliers or a pair of wire cutters. Test fit the 1/2 inch 19 or 21 mm socket to find which one fits snugly. to unscrew the drivers side you must turn the nut counterclockwise. It has a left hand thread. sad. oh well. once the nut is removed brake drum and bearings should slide right off. If not a wack on the drum should loosen the rust holding them in place. take a small point punch, place the brake drum on a hard flat surface and hammer out the bearing races from the opposite side of the race being removed. use a long flathead screwdriver and stick it underneath the rubber part of the dust seal and wack it out with a hammer. After the dust seal is removed, If you want to make it a little easier heat up the drums in an oven to about 250 degrees for 25 minutes, make sure the drums are completely clean of any grease, solvents or water before placing in the oven, and make sure you cant use the oven for cooking food ever again, if you need to bake stuff again use the stovetop burners, just be careful use strong heat proof gloves, and potholders, once the drum is heated to temperature place on a hard flat surface and pour cold water on the bearing race still in the drum, then hammer it out with one wack on the punch. clean the spindle and inspect the brake shoes, wheel cylinder,strut, spring, strut boot, strut mount, torsion bar inside the axle beam If you need parts, check out festivamotorsport.com or your local auto parts store. replace any suspect parts by the way tein makes a great adjustable suspension kit for 900 bucks it takes the aspire to race car level, but there are options for any budget, I like to keep mine in the 100 dollar range, but thats me. install new races into the drum by lubing up with motor oil or assembly lube. Use a socket that fits on top of the race, and hammer around the socket lightly in a circle. again an oven helps, you can heat up the drums and expand them slightly to make installing the races easier. grab your gloves and the lube, its bearing packing time, get a big glob of grease and get your palms all covered thick in grease, then grab the bearing and rub it swifly lengthwise across your palm to pack the entire bearing with grease. this requires a while, you want both whole bearings packed in thick with grease. place the inner(backside of drum) bearing in place, then install the grease seal flat side out, use a socket the same thickness as the inside of the bearing race and lightly tap it in with the hammer. you want the dust seal to be evenly pressed into the drum, a millimeter or so below the lip of the seal bore.make sure a bit of grease is rubbed on the lip of the seal and slide the drum onto the spindle . install the spindle nut, look up the correct torque for this, then torque it. turn the drum and check torque agian , make sure the drum turns freely with no grinding feel while turning, it shoud freewheel with little drag but stil not have any side to side movement. install the wheels, install the lugnuts, snug the lugnuts, lower the vehicle, set the e brake, torque the lugnuts to spec and drive away happy. and confident that you can do a motor swap. peace!

Posted on May 17, 2008

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Diagram of front hub and axle 1994 Ford explorer 4 wheel drive.


Here you go.
Notes:
  • To prevent damage to the spindle during removal, remove adjusting nut locking key from spindle keyway under adjusting nut prior to nut removal.
  • A slight movement of the nut will loosen the locking key so that a magnet can be used for removal.
  • During the front wheel bearing adjustment procedure, align the closest two holes in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot.
  • Advance the nut to the next hole if required. To ensure proper wheel retention, install adjusting nut locking key in alignment with spindle keyway and insert into locknut holes.
  • The double humped portion must be completely seated and flush with the locknut assembly.
  1. Raise and support front of vehicle.
  2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove lug nut stud retainer washers, then the locking hub assembly.
  4. Remove snap ring from end of spindle shaft.
  5. Remove axle shaft spacer, needle thrust bearing and bearing spacer.
  6. Remove cam assembly, thrust washer and needle thrust bearing from wheel bearing adjusting nut.
  7. Remove the adjusting nut lock key, then the nut.
  8. Remove the rotor and replace the bearings, races and seal as necessary.
  9. Torque nut to 35 ft lb while rotating hub and rotor assembly.
  10. Back off adjusting nut 1/4 turn, then torque nut to 16 inch lbs.
  11. Align nearest hole in adjusting nut with center of spindle keyway slot. If necessary, advance nut to the next hole.
  12. Install locknut needle bearing, thrust washer and cam assembly.
  13. Install bearing thrust washer, needle thrust bearing, axle shaft spacer and snap ring.
  14. Install locking hub assembly and retainer washers, then the wheel and tire assembly.
  15. Ensure wheel endplay on spindle is 0.000-0.003 inch.

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Feb 13, 2012 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

1 Answer

I've changed rotors before but never on a 4 wheel drive. Could you tell me how to on a 1989 ford ranger?


Brake Rotor (Disc) - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts.
  2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and support on jackstands.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire.
  4. Remove the brake caliper assembly as described earlier in this section, but do not disconnect the brake hose.
  5. Suspend the caliper assembly by a piece of wire. Do not allow it to hang by the brake hose.
  6. Follow the procedure given under wheel bearing removal in Suspension and Steering for models with manual and automatic locking hubs (lines down).
New rotor assemblies come protected with an anti-rust coating which should be removed with denatured alcohol or degreaser. New hubs must be packed with EP wheel bearing grease.
  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.


Front Wheel Bearings - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figure 1 )


zjlimited_533.gif

Fig. 1: Inspect the bearings for abnormal wear and/or damage



With Manual Locking Hubs
(see Figures 2 through 17)

  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the retainer washers from the lug nut studs and remove the manual locking hub assembly from the spindle.
  4. Remove the snapring and spacer from the end of the spindle shaft.
  5. Remove the outer wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
  6. Remove the locknut washer from the spindle.
  7. Remove the inner wheel bearing locknut from the spindle using 4 prong spindle nut spanner wrench, T86T-1197-A or equivalent. Make sure the tabs on the tool engage the slots in the locknut.
  8. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. Remove the hub and rotor from the spindle.
  9. Using seal removal tool 1175-AC or equivalent remove and discard the grease seal. Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub.
  10. Clean the inner and outer bearing assemblies in solvent. Inspect the bearings and the cones for wear and damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
  11. If the cups are worn or damaged, remove them with front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C and tool T77F-1102-A or equivalent.
  12. Wipe the old grease from the spindle. Check the spindle for excessive wear or damage. Replace defective parts, as required.
zjlimited_534.gif

Fig. 2: Before beginning the wheel bearing removal, and after the outer hub is removed, wipe off any excess grease

zjlimited_535.gif

Fig. 3: After the grease is wiped off, remove the axle shaft snapring ...

zjlimited_536.gif

Fig. 4: ... then pull the splined spacer from the axle shaft end

zjlimited_537.gif

Fig. 5: Use a 4 pronged socket to loosen the outer wheel bearing locknut ...

zjlimited_538.gif

Fig. 6: ... then remove the outer locknut

zjlimited_539.gif

Fig. 7: Remove the lockwasher from behind the outer locknut ...

zjlimited_540.gif

Fig. 8: ... then loosen and remove the inner locknut-note the lockwasher engagement pin (arrow)

zjlimited_541.gif

Fig. 9: While pushing inwards on the rotor/hub assembly, remove the outer wheel bearing ...

zjlimited_542.gif

Fig. 10: ... then pull the rotor/hub assembly from the spindle, taking care not to scratch the bearing cups in the hub

zjlimited_543.gif

Fig. 11: Pry out the grease seal on the back of the rotor/hub assembly ...

zjlimited_544.gif

Fig. 12: ... then remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts for wear or damage





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Jul 29, 2011 | 1989 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Remove rear brake drums


Light Duty Models
  1. Raise the vehicle so that the wheel to be worked on is clear of the floor and install jackstands under the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel. Remove the three retaining nuts and remove the brake drum. It may be necessary to back off the brake shoe adjustment in order to remove the brake drum. This is because the drum might be grooved or worn from being in service for an extended period of time.
  3. Before installing a new brake drum, be sure to remove any protective coating with brake cleaner or a suitable fast-drying degreaser.
  4. Install the brake drum in the reverse order of removal and adjust the brakes.

Heavy Duty
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheel. Loosen the rear brake shoe adjustment.
  3. Remove the rear axle retaining bolts and lockwashers, axle shaft, and gasket.
  4. Remove the wheel bearing locknut, lockwasher, and adjusting nut.
  5. Remove the hub and drum assembly from the axle.
  6. Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut. Remove the brake drum from the hub.

To install:

  1. Place the drum on the hub and attach it to the hub with the attaching nuts and bolts.
  2. Place the hub and drum assembly on the axle and start the adjusting nut.
  3. Adjust the wheel bearing nut and install the wheel bearing lockwasher and locknut.
  4. Install the axle shaft with a new gasket and install the axle retaining bolts and lockwashers.
  5. Install the wheel and adjust the brake shoes. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
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May 08, 2011 | 1991 Ford F250

1 Answer

Need exploded view of 1995 dodge 2500 left front u-joint removal process. How does main bearing race come off?


FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50-80 ft. lbs. (68-108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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Nov 05, 2010 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

Right axel outer universal joint needs to be replaced? How do you replace it.



Removal & Installation


See Figure 1

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.



CAUTION Brake linings may contain asbestos. Asbestos is a known cancer-causing agent. When working on brakes, remember that the dust which accumulates on the brake parts and/or in the drum may contain asbestos. Always wear a protective face covering, such as a painter's mask, when working on the brakes. NEVER blow the dust from the brakes or drum! There are solvents made for the purpose of cleaning brake parts. Use them!

  1. Remove the wheels and brake assemblies.

Refer to Brakes for the proper procedures concerning brake removal.
  1. Remove the cotter pin, locknut and axle hub nut.
  2. Remove the hub-to-knuckle attaching bolts.
  3. Remove the hub and splash shield from the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the left axle shaft from the housing.

  1. If equipped with Command-Trac, disconnect the vacuum harness from the shift motor and remove the shift motor from the housing.

Remove the right axle shaft from the housing.


remove c clips from u joint remove caps install new u joint install clips

To install:

  1. Insert the left and right axle shafts into the axle tube.
  2. To install the right axle shaft (with Command-Trac) first be sure that the shift collar is in position on the intermediate shaft and that the axle shaft is fully engaged in the intermediate shaft end.
  3. If equipped with Command-Trac, install the shift motor, making sure that the fork engages with the collar. Tighten the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).
  4. On the left side, install the axle shaft in the housing.
  5. Partially fill the hub cavity of the knuckle with chassis lube and install the hub and splash shield.
  6. Tighten the hub bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Install the hub washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm). Install the locknut. Install a new cotter pin.
  8. Install the brake assemblies.
  9. Lower the vehicle.

Sep 13, 2010 | 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

How to change fornt drivers wheel bearing on grand vitara 2002 model 2.0 ltr 5 door and where can i get a repair manual for this model


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Front wheel
    • Brake caliper and rotor
    • Locking hub or hub drive flange, if equipped
    • Hub grease cap, if equipped
    • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
    • Wheel bearing lockwasher
    • Wheel bearing locknut and inner washer
    • Wheel hub and bearing assembly
    • Wheel hub oil seal
    • Wheel bearing oil seal
    • Snapring
  3. Press the wheel bearing and race out of the hub. To install:
  4. Press the wheel bearing and race into the hub so that the race is fully seated in the hub bore.
  5. Install or connect the following:
    • Snapring
    • Wheel bearing oil seal
    • Wheel hub oil seal
    • Wheel hub and bearing assembly
    • Wheel bearing locknut and inner washer. Tighten the nut to 157 ft. lbs. (216 Nm).
    • Wheel bearing lockwasher. Tighten the retaining screws to 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm).
    • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
    • Hub grease cap, if equipped
    • Locking hub or hub drive flange, if equipped
    • Brake caliper and rotor
    • Front wheel
prev.gif next.gif --- Go to your local auto parts store or library to get a copy of the repair manual for this model.

Aug 26, 2010 | 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

2 Answers

Hi,I am a Diesal mec.for Peterbilt in Utah,I have 1998 dodge ram 1500 I found that I have the right front axle u-joint going bad I have the parts.I have heard some bad things of how hard it is to get the...


FRONT DRIVE AXLE Hubs and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Models 44, 60, 70 and 80 with Manual or Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
  2. Refer to Manual or Automatic Free Running Hub Removal and Installation and remove the hub assemblies. Fig. 1: Remove the outer locknut on the Model 60/70 front drive axle 88477g63.gif

  3. Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, using a hub nut wrench.
  4. Remove the lock ring from the bearing adjusting nut. This can be done with your finger tips or a screwdriver. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front hub retaining hardware 88471109.gif

  5. Using a hub nut wrench remove the bearing adjusting nut.
  6. Remove the caliper and suspend it out of the way (see the brake section).
  7. Slide the hub and disc assembly off the spindle. The outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed, so be prepared to catch it. To install:
  8. Carefully position the hub and disc assembly on the spindle.
  9. Install the outer bearing cone and roller, and the adjusting nut. NOTE: The adjusting nut has a small dowel on one side. This dowel faces outward to engage the locking ring.
  10. Using a hub nut wrench tighten the bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), while rotating the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.
  11. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 90°.
  12. Install the lock ring by turning the nut to the nearest hole and inserting the dowel pin. NOTE: The dowel pin must seat in a lock ring hole for proper bearing adjustment and wheel retention.
  13. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 50–80 ft. lbs. (68–108 Nm). Final end-play of the wheel on the spindle should be 0.001-0.010 in. (0.025-0.25mm).
  14. Assemble the hub parts.
  15. Install the caliper.
  16. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
Model 44 With Full-Time 4-Wheel Drive
  1. Remove the wheel cover.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle shaft nut. Fig. 3: Remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the Model 44 front axle 88477g64.gif

  3. Raise the support the front end on jackstands.
  4. Remove the wheels. Fig. 4: Exploded view of the Model 44 wheel bearing adjusting nut, retaining washer and locknut in their correct relationship 88477g65.gif

  5. Unbolt the caliper and support it out of the way. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINE!
  6. Remove the inboard brake pad.
  7. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer.
  8. Through the hole provided in the rotor, remove the six retainer bolts.
  9. Position pull C-4358, or equivalent, over the wheel lugs and install the lug nuts. Tighten the main screw of the puller to remove the hub, bearings, retainer and outer seal as an assembly.
  10. Insert a prybar through the U-joint and wedge the shaft inward as far as it will go. Make sure that it is wedged securely and can't be moved.
  11. Install the hub, rotor and bearing assembly and tighten the retainer bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) in a crisscross pattern.
  12. Install the brake adapter. Tighten the bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
  13. Remove the prybar form the U-joint.
  14. Install the axle shaft nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then continue tightening it to align the cotter pin holes. Install the cotter pin.
  15. Using the lube fitting, fill the knuckle with NLGI, Grade 2, multi-purpose EP grease until the grease is seen flowing through the inner seal. Fig. 5: Lubrication fitting location on the rotor top hat 88477g69.gif

  16. Install the inner brake pad and caliper (see Section 9).
  17. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
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Aug 18, 2010 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

1 Answer

Front brake rotor removal


Your rotors have an integrated hub with serviceable bearing.

Remove the six bolts around the center of the hub and pry off the grease cover.

behind it you will find a locking wheel with two philips screws holding it in position. Remove the screws and unscrew the locking wheel.

Behind is a large axle locknut that requires a special tool to remove. It has two small holes to grip with. Unscrew it and you will be able to remove the outer bearing, then slide the rotor off the spindle/axle.

From there you can unbolt the rotor disc from the hub backside, or replace the whole unit. Replacing the whole unit will require installing new bearings/races, however.

Either method will require repacking the bearings and loading the bearings with the special locknut tool.

May 11, 2009 | 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport

1 Answer

ROTOR REPLACEMENT ON IFS


You need a 54 millimeter socket to remove the 2 wheel bearing locknuts, which are visible after you remove the lockin/lockout hub assembly.

Aug 22, 2008 | 1986 Toyota 4Runner

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