Question about 2000 Ford Expedition

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Driver side window will not go up & clicks in the fuse panel

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  • Expert
  • 58 Answers

More than likely have a stuck window motror, try banging on the door while you push up on the switch might free it

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Power window blows fuse

Problem fixed as follows:
Purchase a package of five 30 amp ALC type fuses. Replace blown fuse #8 (30 amp). Perform the following test to determine if the problem is isolated to the driver-side front window.
-One at a time, (i.e. only push one window switch button at a time) operate each of the other three windows (passenger side and rear driver side), to determine if the problem is occuring only on the driver side window. If any of them blows the fuse, replace it with a spare and proceed to test the next window. Repeat for each of the three windows. The process described below may also resolve the issue on the other windows if any of them blew the fuse during this test.
-Now, operate the switch for the driver side window. It is expected to work for a brief period (<1sec), but may very quickly blow fuse #8. Replace fuse #8 with one of the new 30 amp ALC fuses.
Remove the door panel, by sliding the speaker forward and removing the three white clips on the bottom of the panel. Also, pry out the screw clip in the panel well, just to the rear of the switch assembly, and remove the plastic bracket that holds in the switch assembly. The panel can now be lifted off.
To access the window mechanism, remove the tape over the oval cutouts near the top. Also, temporarily pull back the white plastic cover over the bottom of the door. Disconnect the white electrical connector near the center of the door (has only a red and black wire for the regulator motor). Using a small battery (motorcycle battery) and jumper leads test the mechanism's operation by connecting the battery directly to the motor wires. Use insulated test clips on the male connector and be careful not to short the clips together. The window mechanism should operate, and by interchanging the jumper wires (reversing battery power polarity), you can make the window go both up and down. Only do this for brief periods of time, as the motor circuit is now uprotected, i.e. there is no fuse in this test circuit. If the movement of the glass seems strained over part of the travel path, apply WD-40 lubricant to the metal rotating pivot point. Also apply silicone spray to the rail guides for the sides of the glass (with the window in the up position) and to the metal horizontal tracks and plastic wheels near the top of the mechanism. Also, spray some silicone lubricant along the bottom of the window on the outside, just above the rubber stripping, and operate the window a couple of times. An up and down test should now result in very smooth and even window movement. Reconnect the motor power wire to its mating connector, replace the tape and white plastic cover, and then replace the door panel. The mechanism should work smoothly, and the fuse should not blow. Total cost: $3.03 for fuses and a little WD-40 and silicone spray which you probably keep on hand.

Posted on May 18, 2009

leehumphreys
  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: window stop working

the clicking u can hear is the relay for the window clicking, so i would say thats working, but u can also check with a multi meter, could also be the motor for the window, check all your fuses as it could be that also if its blown a fuse there is ur answer. and clean the window switch.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

  • 490 Answers

SOURCE: passenger side window will not go back up

No.The drivers master power switch is probably bad.YOu will have to perform a test on the three other switches on the master. Check for power and ground when you push each putton.If the master switch fails the test you need a new master switch.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: DRIVER SIDE WINDOW IS OFF TRACK AND WON'T CLOSE.

the door handle has screws in it the rest is just push in plugs so you just pul lthe outside of the doorpanel away from the door and it should just pop off but dont force it cus if you have missed some screws it will break the panal

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

  • 1619 Answers

SOURCE: MBZ 1984 300D Driver side front window & passenger rear

Nope 1 fuse controls all the windows. Either its the switch or the window regulators themselves or due to the age the wiring.

Posted on May 04, 2010

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1 Answer

Power lock and power windows dont work can`t find fuse


Number 21 is for the door lock fuse and relay, its a 10 amp fuse.
Number 7 is for the body control module, its a 10 amp fuse.

The fuse panel is under back seat.If all fuses checked out ok,then its faulty drivers door module called as DDM.

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For all types of power window problem and power windows not working,i suggest you to go through the help links given below.Click the link to go through its procedure to troubleshoot the problem :------

driver side power window problem?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/driver-side-window-problem-on-mercury.html

-----------

Driver side power window wont go up?
http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/10/driver-side-power-window-wont-go-up-on.html


---------

Power window problem
http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/pontiac-grand-am-power-window-not.html
------------

rear door or window will not open ?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/rear-door-or-window-will-not-open-on.html
--------------
How to remove door panel, door window motor and regulator ?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-remove-door-panel-door-window.html

--------

Power windows not working after car wash?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/power-windows-not-working-after-car.html
---------power locks, power window and power mirror not working?
http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/power-locks-power-window-and-power.html

All power windows not working?
http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/all-power-windows-not-working-on-2003.html
------------
How to remove window motor and regulator on Volkswagen Car?
http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-remove-window-motor-and.html

-------------Complete Diagnosis & Testing Power Windows?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/diagnosis-testing-power-windows.html

------------

How to replace power window motor in car?
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-power-window-motor-in.html
----------
HOW TO REPLACE A POWER WINDOW SWITCH
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-replace-power-window-switch.html
------------
How to Replace a Window Motor
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-replace-window-motor.html
----------
HOW TO REPLACE A WINDOW REGULATOR WITH MOTOR
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-replace-window-regulator-with.html
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HOW TO REPLACE WINDOW RUN CHANNEL SEALS
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-replace-window-run-channel-seals.html
-------
HOW TO REPLACE A WINDOW REGULATOR
http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/07/how-to-replace-window-regulator.html


-----------This will help.Thanks.

Jan 22, 2012 | 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer

Tip

Power windows are not working


Power windows pretty much come standard on all new vehicles, and they are usually pretty durable, but sometimes they will fail. The window will go down but not back up, or all you hear is a clicking or grinding noise noise when you press the control switch. Or when you press the Power window switch, you get nothing. These are two separate problems, and knowing the difference is the first step in diagnosing any power window or power window switch problem. If you press the power window switch and all you hear is a grinding or clicking noise, or the window acts like it wants to move, then stops and makes noises, then chances are you have a mechanical failure and will probably need to replace the power window regulator or motor. If you press the motor and hear nothing or the window does nothing, then you may have a Blown fuse or an open or short in the wiring circuit that supplies the power window circuitCheck the fuse first. Refer to your owner’s manual for the location of the fuse panel (usually located under the dash on the driver side, on the driver’s side kick panel, or on a side panel in the center console. Locate the numbered fuse that corresponds to the power window circuit, then pull out the fuse to see if the wire inside has burned through or is broken.If the fuse has blown, there is either a short or an overload in the power window circuit. Try replacing the blown fuse with a new one (make sure it has the SAME amp rating as the original, not lower, not higher). Then turn the ignition key on and try to lower one of the power windows.If the new fuse blows immediately, there is a short in the wiring that will have to be found and fixed. DO NOT try to install a higher amp fuse or bypass the fuse for the power window circuit, as this is your only protection against a dangerous overload that could start an electrical fire!If the windows work, it may have been a temporarily overload that caused the fuse to blow. Trying to lower a window that is frozen shut in the wintertime can do this and/or break the window mechanism inside the door.If the fuse is okay, there may be a break in the wiring that routes power to the power window motors and switches. You’ll probably need to look up a wiring harness diagram for your vehicle to identify and trace the wires in the circuit.For more information on diagnosing Power window problems, please go here for step by step instructions on finding out why your power windows will not go up or down.

on Sep 13, 2010 | Acura Integra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Power windows: passenger window does not go up or down, checked the fuses under the steering wheel column on the driver side and the passenger side. switched the fuses from the side that doesn't work...


Switching Fuses proved nothing

Don't have a volt meter ?

Did you check out any of the window switches ?

If not the switch, then door panel comes off & you
test the motor

Aug 09, 2011 | 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

None of my electric windows work. Checked the fuse. Could it be a relay?


There is no relay, and there is no fuse for the power window circuit, there is a 30 amp circuit breaker in the fuse panel under the dash and the circuit breaker should be marked WDO on the fuse panel.

First check to see if there is power from the 30 amp circuit breaker to the master window switch on the driver door, and if power is getting through the master window switch.

If there is power to and through the master window switch (use a test light or a power probe would the best tool for the job), then there is most likely a broken wire inside of the weather boot that is between the door and the body of the vehicle, and the wires run in from the door through the inside of the weather boot and then through a hole on the body of the vehicle that is located behind the driver side kick panel, and the wires should be inspected from the wire connector behind the driver side kick panel out to the master window switch on the driver door for any broken wires. If you do find any broken wires be certain that they are soldered back together and do not use wire connectors to repair the wire(s) unless you want to repair the system again in about a month or two.

Here are two wiring diagrams (if the vehicle has rear vent windows then use the upper diagram) of a typical GM power window circuit for that year to help assist you, and let me know if you require any further assistance.


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Aug 06, 2010 | 1983 Oldsmobile Delta 88

2 Answers

MBZ 1984 300D Driver side front window & passenger rear


Nope 1 fuse controls all the windows. Either its the switch or the window regulators themselves or due to the age the wiring.

May 03, 2010 | 1984 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz 300 Class

1 Answer

Window stop working


the clicking u can hear is the relay for the window clicking, so i would say thats working, but u can also check with a multi meter, could also be the motor for the window, check all your fuses as it could be that also if its blown a fuse there is ur answer. and clean the window switch.

Jun 01, 2009 | 2003 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

2003 F250 Power Windows won't work


check fuses 35 & 41 (10 amp, red).
it also shows an accesory delay relay in the fuse panel.
And fuse 601? 30 amp.

make sure you don't have lock-out on driver switch panel activated.

Power Window System
Features and Operation
NOTE: The accessory delay feature will allow power window operation up to 10 minutes after the ignition is off or until a door is opened.
If equipped with power windows, the window control switch (14529):
  • will operate the power windows only when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ACC position.
  • is located on each front door trim panel, and Crew Cab and Excursion rear door trim panel.
  • may be used to raise or lower the driver side, passenger side and rear windows from the LF control on the driver side, or the passenger window from the passenger switch.
  • includes a one-touch down (OTD) feature for the driver door window.
  • can partially lower the driver side window when the LF window control switch is depressed half way (first detent).
  • will completely lower the driver side window when the LF window control switch is fully depressed and then released (second detent).
Power Window System — Modes of Operation
There are two modes of operation for the power window system.
Manual Mode
When the LH window control switch is pressed to the first down position, the window will move down until one of the following conditions are met:
  • The LH window control switch is no longer in the first down position.
  • The LH window control switch is pushed to the OTD position, causing the windows to enter auto mode.
Auto Mode
Auto mode provides the OTD feature. The OTD feature is activated when the LH window control switch, for the LH window, is pressed to the second down position.
Auto mode will be terminated when any of the following conditions are met:
  • The LH window control switch is pushed to the UP position.
  • The LH window control switch is released (OFF position) and then moved to the DOWN position (first detent) or OTD position (second detent).
  • Note: Delayed accessory feature must be active.
The OTD feature is controlled by the window control switch.

---------------------------------------------------------
Condition Possible Sources Action
  • All power windows are inoperative
  • Fuse(s).
  • Circuitry.
  • LF window control switch.
  • Accessory delay relay.

May 23, 2009 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

1 Answer

ELECTRIC SEATS &PASSENGER SIDE WINDOWS DONT WORK


2003 surbarban driver seat and passenger windows have common fuse/breaker under hood in fuse panel. 50 Amp fuse upper left of box, marked mped this is a big fuse not the little ones.

May 20, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Suburban 1500

1 Answer

Power window blows fuse


Problem fixed as follows:
Purchase a package of five 30 amp ALC type fuses. Replace blown fuse #8 (30 amp). Perform the following test to determine if the problem is isolated to the driver-side front window.
-One at a time, (i.e. only push one window switch button at a time) operate each of the other three windows (passenger side and rear driver side), to determine if the problem is occuring only on the driver side window. If any of them blows the fuse, replace it with a spare and proceed to test the next window. Repeat for each of the three windows. The process described below may also resolve the issue on the other windows if any of them blew the fuse during this test.
-Now, operate the switch for the driver side window. It is expected to work for a brief period (<1sec), but may very quickly blow fuse #8. Replace fuse #8 with one of the new 30 amp ALC fuses.
Remove the door panel, by sliding the speaker forward and removing the three white clips on the bottom of the panel. Also, pry out the screw clip in the panel well, just to the rear of the switch assembly, and remove the plastic bracket that holds in the switch assembly. The panel can now be lifted off.
To access the window mechanism, remove the tape over the oval cutouts near the top. Also, temporarily pull back the white plastic cover over the bottom of the door. Disconnect the white electrical connector near the center of the door (has only a red and black wire for the regulator motor). Using a small battery (motorcycle battery) and jumper leads test the mechanism's operation by connecting the battery directly to the motor wires. Use insulated test clips on the male connector and be careful not to short the clips together. The window mechanism should operate, and by interchanging the jumper wires (reversing battery power polarity), you can make the window go both up and down. Only do this for brief periods of time, as the motor circuit is now uprotected, i.e. there is no fuse in this test circuit. If the movement of the glass seems strained over part of the travel path, apply WD-40 lubricant to the metal rotating pivot point. Also apply silicone spray to the rail guides for the sides of the glass (with the window in the up position) and to the metal horizontal tracks and plastic wheels near the top of the mechanism. Also, spray some silicone lubricant along the bottom of the window on the outside, just above the rubber stripping, and operate the window a couple of times. An up and down test should now result in very smooth and even window movement. Reconnect the motor power wire to its mating connector, replace the tape and white plastic cover, and then replace the door panel. The mechanism should work smoothly, and the fuse should not blow. Total cost: $3.03 for fuses and a little WD-40 and silicone spray which you probably keep on hand.

May 17, 2009 | 1994 Volvo 940

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