Question about 1992 Honda Accord

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Can the motor came lose for the transmission and be removed from the top.

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Not Easily that I can think of. Usually the Transmission is dropped down in these vehicles. If you put it up on Jack stands, you'll need to elevate the vehicle from a center point so you can place the stands under the jack points to hold it up. You can usually disconnect the Drivers side Drive shaft and separate the engine and Transmission and lower the transmission done through the opening. It is possible to lift the engine and Transmission together through the top and then Separate them but that is a lot more work then doing it the other way. You can get a loaner Transmission jack from some Auto Zone locations which will make lowering and raising the transmission a lot easier.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

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How To Remove A Manual Transmission From A 1986-92 VW Jetta/Golf


Disconnect and remove the battery. Remove the axleshaft nuts on the spindle and remove the 6 splined bolts holding the axleshaft to the transmission yoke. Jack the car up 1-2 feet. You'll need to support the motor with a jack or jack stand. Drain the transmission, there is a 17mm allen plug at the bottom of the housing. The filler plug is on the right end of the transmission, (17mm allen plug also) to the right of the throw out bearing housing plug, that says VW on it. Remove the axleshafts. Unplug the back up switch. Remove the starter, that will also disconnect the motor/transmission mount. Disconnect the clutch cable and shifter linkage attached to the transmission. Remove the speedometer cable. Unbolt the rear transmission mount (17mm bolt going vertically down, a real long extension will help to get to that one) and bracket going to the end of the transmission at the top, 2, 17mm bolts with nuts. Remove the bracket. Remove the lower inspection sheild, 3, 11mm bolts. From the underneath side, on the other side of the motor where the transmission joins the motor, there is a 19mm bolt holding the transmission to the block, remove that, and also remove the small inspection plate above there, 2, 10mm bolts. Unbolt the two top bellhousing bolts, and it's ready to remove, pull the transmission away from the motor 2-4 inches to clear the input shaft from the clutch disc, you'll have to kind of turn and twist the transmission to get the transmission to clear the sub frame. Also moving the engine up or down will also help. The transmission weighs about 70 pounds.

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Transmission will not come lose from motor, all bolts and the starter have been removed


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How do u remove a 1991 honda accord engine


Get some boxes, bags and a sharpie marker to put things in and label them if this is your first time. Disconnect and remove battery and metal battery tray, unplug ALL wires and lines that connect to engine including AC lines that are in the way and the throttle cable and cruise control cable. Keep the plug wires hooked to your distributor so you don't lose your firing order. Drain radiator and remove it. Remove the top hose and use the long lower hose to push over the outlet where the top hose was to contain what is left in the radiator. Automatic cars will require disconnection of the transmission cooler lines from the bottom of the radiator. Open gas cap before disconnecting fuel line on intake to relieve pressure. Remove front wheels and separate bottom ball joints from lower control arms on each side, separate both outer tie rod ends from knuckle. Drain transmission fluid, pop out both axles from transmission. They can hang. Disconnect shifting linkage. Disconnect exhaust down pipe (or) disconnect tailpipe at the end of braided hose just before the catalytic converter. Mainly, get it to where the motor is just sitting there in the cradle with nothing holding it but motor mounts. Hook a chain to the pick bracket on the head near the power steering pump and to the one on the transmission. Feel free to remove the 17mm bolts in each mount as well as any brackets for these mounts that obstruct your ability to pull it up out. I have found that pulling it out on an angle with the transmission being lower helps your mood! The 4 motor mount locations are as follows: Front Center - Left - Right - Rear Center. If you are replacing this 90-91 engine with a 92-93 you will need to reuse your AC compressor and it's bracket, the down pipe and the header and the wiring harness on the engine.

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1 Answer

Is it hard to replce a Tranny in a 1986 VW Golf, also can this be done on the ground? I am a ase Treachnican , but never worked on VW . Chris


Yes, shouldn't be a problem. Remove the battery. Jack the car up 1-2 feet. You'll need to support the motor. Drain the transmission, there is a 17mm allen plug at the bottom of the housing. The filler plug is on the right end of the transmission, (17mm allen plug also) to the right of the throw out bearing housing plug, says VW on it. Remove the axleshafts. Unplug the back up switch. Remove the starter, that will also disconnect the motor/transmission mount. Disconnect the clutch cable and shifter linkage attached to the transmission. Remove the speedometer cable. Unbolt the rear transmission mount (17mm bolt going vertically down, a real long extension will help to get to that one) and bracket going to the end of the transmission at the top, 2, 17mm bolts with nuts. Remove the bracket. Remove the lower inspection sheild, 3, 11mm bolts. From the underneath side, on the other side of the motor where the transmission joins the motor, there is a 19mm bolt holding the transmission to the block, remove that, and also remove the small inpsection plate above there, 2, 10mm bolts. Unbolt the two top bellhousing bolts, and it's ready to remove, pull the transmission away from the motor 2-4 inches to clear the imput shaft from the clutch disc, you'll have to kind of turn and twist the transmission to get the transmission to clear the sub frame. Also moving the engine up or down will also help. The transmission weighs about 70 pounds.

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2 Answers

Can't pull out 97' Cadillac engine from the top


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CHANGING THE FLUID


2000 Chev Malibu 3.1 L checking the transmission oil level is a must since there is no dipstick to check the oil level with. The MOTOR oil is hot to change the oil in the motor. Driving the car up on ramps alters the level a bit as does the trans fluid at 200 degrees instead of the recommended 100 degrees. Let the car idle while you slide cardboard, newspaper, a flex socket wrench with a deep 7/16 inch six point socket. Set both the Park at the transmission gear selector and the parking brake, and put blocks behind and in front of the rear tires before you climb underneath the car. Cars roll off of jacks, ramps and whatever enables mechanics to get underneath. Before changing the motor oil while the engine is at a slow idle, using a six point 7/16 wrench turn the plug on the passenger side of the transmission counter clockwise looking down at the top of the bolt/inspection plug. If oil runs out put the plug right back in. If not add about four ounces at a time.
To add fluid, remove the red add fluid cap is on top of the chain/side cover which is underneath the exhaust crossover in front of the air valve. I used a turkey baster with the bulb removed and used a funnel into the baster which I placed into the add fluid hole after removing the red add fluid cap. While it is a better to have one person adding fluid while the other is underneath yelling stop when the fluid starts to run out of the inspection hole, I added 4 oz at a time and may have a slightly overfilled transmission. Although the car is not level, if you have fluid at normal operation temperature, the expansion of the fluid will compensate for the overfill due to the rear of the car being lower than the front.
After removing the motor oil and filter, spray some engine degreaser on the side of the motor and transmission to remove dirt and to make finding future leaks and pinpoint their location.
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The exhaust crossover pipe is several hundred degrees even at idle. A bright flashlight is helpful to find leaks when lying on the ground underneath the car and oil pans.

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