Question about 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 jeep cherokee laredo
My 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee had the same problem. Over heated when standing still. Took it to dealer and they could not find any problem with cooling fan. After doing my own investigation I found out that the electric cooling fan would begin to seize up after about 1hr. of operating. (gets hot)
The dealer would look at fan and see that it was running and think its ok. The problem is, it wasn't running fast enough.
I have a relay on the right side of front fender and jumped the fan to stay on with motor off. (must know what your doing). After about 1hr. fan started slowing way down. Returned it to dealer told them what the problem was. They were not smart enough to jump the relay so they put a couple hundred miles on it even though i told them it works OK when moving. Make sure you tell dealer to use the relay to jump.
Replace cooling fan motor. Works great
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
oil pressure problem should be checked independently of other problems...Use a good accurate mechanical gauge to check. If pressure is good (no less than 15psi at idle hot (I prefer to see at least 20) check dash grounding, block ground and if OK, change sending unit. Dash and body ground can influence operation of shift and body control modules so indirectly your problem may or may not be related, depending upon what you find while testing. And it could turn out to be a defective module! They are expensive and just plugging new ones in may work, but then again, it might not. I might be totally incorrect on this...that's the value of actually being there instead of doing this by "remote control".
If you read the numerous posts pertaining to all vehicles, you will see that you are not alone with electrical problems...As long as the engineers who design this stuff, keep using "modules" to replace ordinary simple and reliable systems, we will continue to have these problems. Do some testing and I'm sure you will find a solution! (I'm still waiting for someone to make a program for a PC that will give a complete readout of every system in a vehicle, including exact faults instead of general system "suggestions")
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
if you have an original working fob and your owner's manual,it will explain procedure,otherwise will have to go to dealer to be programmed
Posted on May 17, 2009
There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.
You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.
There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.
Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.
Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.
You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attatched to the resistor by two clips.
Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.
Re-install everything in the opposite order.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
your transmission is in "limp home" mode, the problem is one of the sensors on your transmission. you need to have an obdII scanner connected to read the codes stored in your vehicles computer. this will tell you which sensor has failed
Posted on Nov 25, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks, will get that checked out"
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