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Diagram for 2003 dodge 1 ton dually 4x4 front axle

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: i need a diagram on front hub and brake assembly

8–Stud Rotor

  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel.
  3. Remove the hub extension.
  4. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
  5. Remove the axle nut cotter pin. Remove the axle nut.
  6. Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire from under the hood. Remove the sensor wire from the frame and steering knuckle, if equipped.
  7. Back off the hub/bearing mounting bolts 1/4 inch each. Then tap the bolts with a hammer to loosen the hub/bearing mounting bolts.
  8. Remove the bolts and remove the hub/bearing assembly.

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: belt diagram 2004 5.7 liter engine dodge ram 1500 1/2 ton 4x4

click on this link, and scroll down to 5.7L

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800ba71e

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: remove front axle from differential on 2003 dodge ram

That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Replacing front drive axle universal joints.

Please explain step by step how to replace the front U Joints Front Axle!

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 chevy 3500 dually 4X4 front axle not working

On the full size, the front actuator is electric, not vacuum.

When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.

Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.

I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.

GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.

If I were you, I would buy a new heated actuator. They are available at most auto parts stores, and are about $90. They are also on eBay for about $55 plus shipping. These are very easy to change - just thread out the old one, and thread in a new one.

Good luck, That actuator is usually the problem 90% of time.

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

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8–Stud Rotor
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel.
  3. Remove the hub extension.
  4. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
  5. Remove the axle nut cotter pin. Remove the axle nut.
  6. Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire from under the hood. Remove the sensor wire from the frame and steering knuckle, if equipped.
  7. Back off the hub/bearing mounting bolts 1/4 inch each. Then tap the bolts with a hammer to loosen the hub/bearing mounting bolts.
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