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I am sorry to tell that the gearbox need to have some major repair. It is also not advisable to continue driving as the gearbox can breakdown completely leaving you stranded. At least one the cluster drive gears in the gearbox is damaged (gear tooth stripped off) that will result in that only some of the gears being able to be selected. The broken off tooth are still in the gearbox and due to the oil movement in the gearbox it can be "washed up " in between to engaged gears destroying those as well. This will happen up to the point where there are no gear selection at all.
If the clutch is a problem you will have difficulty selecting 1st only as the gears would be spinning from the engine revs.. I would say that the front input shaft (clutch shaft) bearing is failing allowing miss alignment of the synchros and not allowing proper engagement of the gears synchro rings. It means removal and repair to the gear box so the clutch can be inspected while the box is out.
i started hearing a clinching noise in my nissan tiida 2006 transmission...
it was stopping when engine becomes warm.
i changed the oil, but the noise is still there.
as if something's lose in the gearbox...
NEED HELP PLEASE....
A gearbox will not "knock" in the usual sense, that is said of an engine running on petrol which is a lower octane than it needs. The sound is more of a light rattle or pinging.
If your manual gearbox has had the wrong oil in it for only a week or 2 and has not been thrashed, it is unlikely it has been damaged at all. Just drain and refill with the right grade.
If an auto gearbox, using the wrong oil can cause damage, as it may be far too thick. Drain and refill 2-3 times with the correct grade, running the engine until warm, but not driving around, in between. Then go for a drive without thrashing the car, and see if you can notice anything abnormal.
If you can, take it to an auto trans shop for advice. Then
there is no need to blead air from the gearbox or transfer, or diff's
first the transfer and gearbox are together but use their own oils and are changed seperatly
remove the drain plug to drain, refit then refill through the filler flug, the correct level is thesame as the filler so when starts draining from the filler hole its full. car needs to be level/flat ground when doing this.
if its auto there will be a tube for checking the level, at the back of the engine under the bonnet. auto trans oil does need the engine running to check for correct level.
remove drain plug with the engine off, refill approx same amount of oil in to the dipstick tube, then start the engine, select each gear for a couple of secconds then back to neutral, check level with engine still running. adjust level if needed.
my suzuki baleno 2001 mod manual has a problem with the gear box. i can go 1st,2nd and 5thgear but can not get in to 3rd and 4th gear...what do you think it could be? thanks my email is: firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi there. Although the Dealer has changed the oil, did they do a 'Stall Test' whilst the gearbox was cold and again when at normal running temperture? If not, that's what they must do firstly. This will identify whether you have a slipping clutch/s. The Honda autobox also includes what is known as accumulators - these control how each clutch is engaged during acceleration. For example, if you are accelerating slighly/smoothly, you want each gear to be engaged gently and smoothly, whereas, when accelerating hard, you need the gear engaged quickly and hard to aviod clutch slippage. Thus, the fact that you are experiencing a hard engagement might mean that an accumulator/s is seized. If that's the case, it will mean that the autobox will need stripping, cleaning and be checked for worn components. Hope this helps, Scottech.