Question about 1997 Ford Escort

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Why dont i have spark on 2 cylinders

I have no spark on cylinders 2 and 3 but i have spark on cylinders 1 and 4? although she doesnt run real bad on the 2 that have spark.

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  • silent boy Jul 06, 2008

    Experiencing the same problem with primary and secondary malfunction on the ignition coil and have since replaced the coil but still have the same problem. Please help

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  • Master
  • 579 Answers

Bad coil pack? Do they all come from one coil with 4 taps? Get new coil

Posted on May 16, 2008

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1 Answer

Misfiring cylinder 3 on axiom 2004, replaced coil and plug, need info. On cleaning injectors.


how do you know that, (you never said)
P0303 DTC errors? that?
303 means.
#3 cylinders combustion energy is weak, to a tech it means the piston velocity was week, slow to accelerate, it was.
that can be.
1: spark bad (for gas/petrol engines)
2: injection bad.
3: this cylinder compression bad.

it is NOT just a spark issue, not at all.
it can even be air leaks (vacuum ) near #3 but that cause.
injection rates to seem wrong when ok. lean.
see?

id be all over compression tests.
after all cant burn fuel with weak compression.
it may burn but 303 will keep going.
then spark, cant burn fuel with bad spark
and last is fueling. (air and fuel mix)
in that order, is how it happens in real world.
but we take short cuts, sure, and new spark plugs are prudent fast and only $2 each.

Jul 24, 2016 | Isuzu Axiom Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Fiat Palio 1.2 firing order


didnt change them 1 by one, you bad boy.

id get the real engine name and google that or buy the FSM book.
at FIAT.

1.2 F.I.R.E engine.
comes in 2 favors
  • 8v SMPI VVT (2007 - current)
  • 16v SMPI (1998 - 2009)
most non boxer engines, are 1,3,4,2 (but this is pcm job not you )
google shows
IT'S WASTED SPARK SYSTEM !
google hit #1
It's cast into the cylinder head. Look across from the passenger side of the car- you'll see 2314 just above the coils.

sounds like this engine is with a COIL pack, You never said.
and with a twin pack , all 4 bangers are wasted spark.
so 2nd 3 fire on one coil (in series) and 1and 4 fire in tandom.
but the PCM sets order. not you,
it only needs to have to pack wired right.
and is clearly marked on most better made coil packs
did you look first.?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
one more google poster , no FSM. shows
coil towards the front of the car is cylinder 2 and 3
coil towards the back of the car cylinder 1 and 4
as shown below

make sure you have the plugs to the coils the right way round thou i

4 ----[o]4
1 ----------------[o]1
2 ------------[o]2
3 --------[o]3

-----------------------------------------------------------------
me.....
when the PCM fires coil 1/4 , it better be wired to 1 and4 or
it will not run. (ir shakes like a wet dog)
simple as can be.

yes, the front cylinder is #1
now where is front. you say?, that be, on the crank pulley end.
not the clutch.side.

if still confused a drawing is easy to make.
1sparkfront, to 1 coil
2 spark to coil 2
3 spark to coil 3
4 spark to coil 4. rear cylinder is 4.
1,2,3,4 front to rear.

Jul 15, 2014 | 2008 Fiat Palio 1.2

1 Answer

Cylinder


It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one cylinder misfiring, it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. You dont mention which cylinder, so I will pick one - #2. Let's start with Spark. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If cylinder #3 misfires, then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the misfire didn't move - still on Cylinder #2, then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the cylinder #2 is still misfiring, get a new distributor and rotor cap - one of those is your problem.
Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, that injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.
When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another symptom would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random misfires or a no-start/no-run symptom.
And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.
Here is a chart of pictures of various spark plug conditions. It can help diagnose all kinds of troubles in engines. Good luck!
edc57e39-c387-44d7-a59f-d5affdb7d7d0.jpg

Apr 22, 2014 | 1980 Mercedes-Benz 280 SLC

1 Answer

Not getting fuel


which engine?
my guess, is it really dont start.
so the assumption is not getting fuel.???
got spark? (3 or 4 cylinders , 1.0 or 1.3L)?
compression at spec? 150 min, warm. or hot?
if test fuel works or runs for 3seconds , proving engine is ok but no fueling?
that and only that means not getting fuel.

the fuel pump on many cars does not turn on , until you crank the engine.
The ECU decides this, (software inside) and varies.
some run for 3 seconds key on. others, not. depends on country and year, and engine sizes, (only year was stated)

EFI rules to use:
ECU does not inject if spark is bad. BY DESIGN.
nor at wide open throttle ,cranking (bad TPS?)
all ECU operater the pump, when cranking and running.
so check the fuel pressure with a real gauge, cranking.
only that works.

Apr 22, 2014 | 1994 Geo Metro

1 Answer

F6a efi wont start


there is the list , and correct order that always works.
1: fuses. good?
2: 12vdc to all EFI parts (battery charged? at 12.6vdc? rested)
use a voltmeter, no guessing... and the VM dont lie.
3: good compression, on all cylinders. 150psi w.o.t
if all are real low the cam belt/chain slipped. (generic post)
4: good spark, the ECU cuts fuel ifs spark is gone, so spark
on gas engines, is #4. i check timing to see if cam slipped.
5: good fueling. (too much or too little, it will not start)
i check for flooding with spark plug tip checks, soaking wet is flooding.
dry is lost fuel, try test fuel check now, (spray fuel)
if flooded do the super secret unflood test in the operators guide.
SS-= cranking with wide open throttle.

i bet its running now.

skipping 60k mile tune up's will cause no starts
as will bad fuel.

Feb 26, 2014 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 fiesta 1 2 misfire on cylnder 2


It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one misfire code (P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire), it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. Let's start with Spark. I'm going to assume you have a code reader. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Clear the code. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If a code appears with P0303 (the last digit refers to cylinder number), then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the code reappeared with P0302 (Cylinder #2 again), then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Clear the code. Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the P0302 code comes back, swap the coil. See where this is going?

Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Clear code. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, ithat injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.

When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another code would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random (Code P0300) misfires.

And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.

Now, clear that code and get started! Good luck!

Feb 17, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2000 Saturn sc2 has a misfire


It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have only one misfire code (example: P0302 - Cylinder #2 Misfire), it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. You didnt mention which cylinder has the misfire, so let's assume it is on Cylinder #2. Start with Spark. I'm going to assume you have a code reader. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Clear the code. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If a code appears with P0303 (the last digit refers to cylinder number), then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the code reappeared with P0302 (Cylinder #2 again), then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Clear the code. Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the P0302 code comes back, swap the coil. See where this is going?

Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Clear code. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, ithat injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.

When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another code would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random (Code P0300) misfires.

And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.

Now, clear that code and get started! Good luck!

Feb 10, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

WHEN TURNING KEY IT WONT START LIKE A DEAD BATTERY JUMP IT, BUT STILL WONT START.


if it doesnt even click over straight nothing at all ....
battery is no go at all
1.if it starts off a jump.....
altinater could be bad...take positive battery terminal off battery while car is on ...if it stays running its good if car dies altinaters bad.
2.if its good replace battery with brand new one....
3.if the cars battery is brand new and car acts like it wants to start real bad but wont...
if you have gas in the vehicle and it sounds like it dont ... your ecm is bad electronic control module or ICM ignition control module.....its the brain the spark


Jan 14, 2010 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

2 Answers

My jeep doesnt have spark all the time it stalls while driving and dont want to start but if u keep trying it eventually it will start


common problem you have a bad crank sensor, replace sensor you should be all set after that.good luck.

Oct 16, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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