Turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise until all the timing marks align. This sets piston #1 at Top Dead Center compression. Once set in this position, the motor position must not be disturbed during repairs.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the upper radiator shroud.
Loosen the power steering pump and remove the belt.
Remove the air conditioner compressor belt tensioner and remove the belt.
Loosen the alternator and remove the drive belt.
Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the center bolt holding the crankshaft pulleys. The bolt will be tight.
Remove the smaller pulley bolt and remove the power steering pulley and the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft.
Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.
Confirm that all the timing marks align and that the engine is at Top Dead Center compression on cylinder #1.
Loosen and remove the timing belt adjuster.
Use chalk or a crayon to mark the direction of rotation on the timing belt. Carefully remove the timing belt from the pulleys.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
Remove the water pump mounting bolts and remove the alternator bracket.
The water pump bolts are of different lengths and must be re-installed in the correct position. Label or diagram each at the time of removal.
Carefully remove the pump from the engine block and separate the pump from the water pipe.
Check the pump thoroughly for damage or cracks. Turn the shaft, checking for binding or noise. If the pump was leaking coolant through the vent hole, the internal seal has failed and the pump must be replaced.
Now remove all the old pieces of gasket and clean things up real well.
Make sure to use new O'rings and gaskets.
Install the water pump retaining bolts in their correct holes and tighten each finger-tight.
Tighten the bolts in two steps to their final torque.
Bolt heads marked 4 tighten to 10 foot lbs.
Those marked with a 7 tighten to 18 foot pounds.
Install the water pipe, making sure the O-ring stays in position.
Connect the lower radiator hose to the water pump. Use a new hose clamp if necessary.
Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket, the oil pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket in that order. Make certain there is no slack between the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump or between the oil pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket.
Loosen the tensioner mounting bolts. Allow the tensioner to move against the belt under its spring tension; do not force or push on the tensioner.
Turn the crankshaft in its normal clockwise direction until the camshaft pulley has moved 2 teeth from the timing mark.
Carefully observe the belt and the way it fits on each sprocket. It may have lifted from the camshaft sprocket, particularly in the 10 O'clock position. If this is the case, *gently* push on the tensioner with your fingers - counterclockwise or downward - to take up the slack. Do not push on the tensioner any more than needed to seat the belt on the sprocket.
Tighten the lower bolt on the tensioner first, then the pivot or upper bolt. The order is important; if done incorrectly, the belt will not be under the correct tension.
Install the lower timing belt cover and then the upper cover. Tighten the bolts to 8 foot lbs.
Install the crankshaft pulley and the power steering pulley. Tighten the small pulley bolt to 19 foot lbs.
Tighten the crankshaft center bolt to 88 foot lbs.
Install the pulley and fan assembly onto the water pump. Tighten the nuts to 8 foot lbs.
Install the alternator drive belt and adjust it to the proper tension.
Install the compressor drive belt. Install the belt tensioner and adjust the belt tension.
Install the power steering pump drive belt and adjust it to the proper tension.
Install the upper radiator shroud.
Double check the draincock, closing it if necessary, and refill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start engine and inspect for leaks.
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The choke is there to cut off the air supply and pull in more fuel when it is cold. You have to repair the choke or put a manual choke on it. the warmer the engine gets , the more the choke opens up.
The carburator needs to be retuned under a load to correct the problem. Take the truck back to the place were the carburator was worked on, and have them to check the carburator out for correct adjustments. Hope this will help you !!
It could be a fuse? Have a look in the fuse box, your owners manual will detail where it is. Take a look at the top of each fuse to see if the thin piece of metal is burned out.
Hello Dave, I own a 1988 Ram 50 5-Standard and will go off my own experiences to answer this question. I use a synthetic 80W transmission fluid. If you know what is/was already in there; my recommendation is not to change the grade of oil in the transmission unless it is necessary because of driving conditions or vechicle requirements (i.e. towing/hauling/efficiency). Anyway the Ram 50 Manual 4 & 5 Speed transmissions take a range of fluid grades from 70W-90W. You can use this in both conventional and synthetic oils.
For the power steering, universal power steering fluid works the best, and I honestly don't know the exact amount to put in Ram 50, but may I suggest you purchase ~20oz. Fill it half with half the bottle, then check the dipstick, then put in half of that half-bottle (a quarter of the bottle in), check, and repeat until you get it to the appropriate level.
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