Question about 1996 Chevrolet Corsica

1 Answer

Air conditioner we cannot figure our how to put in the r134 into the air conditioner

Posted by on

  • doodles4386 Jun 29, 2008

    I have a V6 1996 Chevy Corsica and my husband was trying to put freon in but we aren't sure where to put it in at. We haven't ever owned a Chevy before and the owner's manual isn't helping.

  • Kenneth Pruett May 11, 2010

    Did you buy a kit or just the r134?

    You will need a kit that will come with a gauge and hoses.

    It should have a small connector used for charging on the low pressure side as you don't want to attach to the hi pressure side.

    The kit should have instructions on how to know how much to put in.

    Was the system totally out and not cooling at all or just doesn't get as cold as you would like?

    If it is totally out, you may be wasting money on r134, because if the seals are bad, then the added r134 will leak out.

    If it is just low, then I suggest using one of the r134 cans that has the oil in it to lubricate the whole AC system.



1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.

  • Chevrolet Master
  • 1,224 Answers

air conditioner - bb36a7a.jpg you will need these with guages

how too link ^^^^^

E36 (1993+) A/C Condenser Replacement & System Recharging Procedure

It is illegal to vent R-134a in to the atmosphere. If your car has residual R-134a in the system, you must take the car in to have it professionally evacuated. Legalities aside, R-134a is toxic! Wear gloves and eye protection when dealing with this stuff. Note, this procedure is for R-134a cars only! This means 93+ E36s. I am not responsible for anything. Below is an account of how I did it and it may not work for you …

Ok, disclaimers aside – this job is easy. I mean really easy. Just be careful. There are a lot of steps though …

I bought my ’93 E36 with a busted condenser as diagnosed by a dealer. Didn’t care at the time, Sandy Hago has great weather (especially where I live) . Anyway, I saw a condenser on ebay and decided to pick it up. A couple months later, I was ready …

If your system has pressure in it, get it evacuated professionally. There are many shops that will do this and even tell you where your leak is (they use a die and a black light). My car had no pressure in it, so this step didn’t apply to me.

1. A/C condenser (used, oem doesn’t really matter that much). Expect to pay less than $150. Dealer price is $450+
2. A/C receiver/dryer (oem). Ebay has ‘em for about $45. Dealer price is $125+.
3. Gaskets. Refer to the following picture for which ones. Caution! The ETK is wrong (at least for my car) on this. The dealer was also wrong. Overbuy if you must. About $40 (I know, what a rip). I ended up getting 4 #6s and 4 8s.
4. Manifold Gauge set for R-134a. Should have a blue gauge and hose (low pressure), red gauge and hose (hi pressure) and yellow hose (refrigerant supply/vacuum). About $75-$100.
5. Vacuum pump (oil based preferred). Don’t know where to get one. Maybe it can be rented. I borrowed one from a friend. They run for $250 I hear.
6. 3 cans (12oz) of R-134a and 1 can (8.5oz) of refrigerant oil. Available at any parts store. Total cost = $40.
7. Usual set of tools – Philips screwdrivers, hex sockets, ratchet.
8. six pack. I hate American beer, Rolling Rock is an exception though.
Total (if you buy everything) = $(150+45+40+100+250+40+10) = ~ $640.
Total (if you know someone with a pump and manifold (or rent)) = $(150+45+40+40+10)= ~ $290
Total (if you’re lucky like me ) = $(85+$40+$25+$30+10) = $190 (ebay – condenser/receiver-dryer, friend had the pump and manifold, gaskets – I know the parts guy at the dealership, kragen sale on R-134a and oil)
Total (dealership) = $1000+ !!!

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Christophe Thompson
    Christophe Thompson Jun 01, 2008

    1. Check for existing pressure
    a. Lift the hood and hang the manifold on the hood latch (roughly eye level).
    b. Make sure that all valves (hi, low and ref/vac) are closed.
    c. Plug the low side (blue) in to the low side port. The ports are of different sizes, so you really can’t go wrong here.
    d. If you see pressure (not vacuum), take it to a shop to get it evacuated.
    e. If you see vacuum, you may not have a leak (or a very slow one). End here and just either recharge with refrigerant or add some stop-leak type additive.
    2. Do a leak test (only if you have zero vacuum)
    a. With the set up in step 1, connect the high side as well.
    b. Plug in your vacuum and turn it on based on pump instructions.
    c. Open the ref/vac valve and the low side and high side valves.
    d. You should see a vacuum starting to form (the needle on the gauge will go below zero).
    e. Let it run for 5mins, and then shut off the blue valve, the red valve, the ref/vac valve and the pump.
    f. Come back after 5mins and check if you’ve lost any vacuum. If you have, you need to find the leak. Take it to a shop. The steps below are only if your leak is in the condenser unit.
    3. Raise the front end of the car up on ramps. You need to do this because the condenser comes out from the bottom of the car. Chock the rear wheels and use your handbrake. Safety disclaimer applies here.
    4. Remove the bumper
    a. Using a flat head screwdriver with tape on the ends, carefully remove the trim pieces as indicated. The longer of the two trim pieces that wraps around the side of the bumper is first pried from the front and then “pulled” forward. It’ll come out easily. If you’re putting too much force, get a beer and try again … ‘cause you’re about to bust something.
    b. Go under the car and remove 8 screws (mine were hex 8mm) from under the left and right brake ducts. Maybe you’re missing some, I don’t care – just think and remove.
    c. Remove the brake ducts from the bumper.
    d. Remove the fogs. Don’t just pull the connector! Once that bumper comes off and you set it down, the last thing you want is some neighbor kid coming and kicking your bumper around just to scratch/damage your $100 fogs! Ask me how I know!
    e. Remove one screw on each side in the front wheel well (left and right side). Look at the picture.
    f. Remove the four hex nuts (13mm) in the front under the trim pieces you removed earlier. The bumper is about to come off!
    g. Slide off the bumper carefully. The splash guards in the front wheel wells may need to be tortured a bit (you’ll know what I mean). Once you’re done, you should have something like this.
    5. Remove the plastic shroud covering your radiator. Four screws (hex 8mm I think) and two plastic push expander thingys. 6. Remove the two screws holding your condenser in. Different years may have different procedures here. Just pick up a Bentley.
    7. Remove the fours hex screws (8mm) holding the auxiliary fan. Don’t let it fall to the ground! Remove the wiring harness and set this thing aside.
    8. Remove the plastic shroud behind the auxiliary fan. A bit tricky here. There are two hex screws you should be able to see through the kidney grills. Use an extension to get to these ones.
    9. Remove the splash guard (4 philips screws for me) under the auxiliary fan.
    10. Remove the plastic shroud.

  • Christophe Thompson
    Christophe Thompson Jun 01, 2008

    11. Remove the A/C lines to the left of the condenser. These are allen screws. They may be a bit tight. Once you unscrew them, plug the lines with something to prevent anything from getting in.
    12. Maneuver things a bit and pull the condenser out of the car from underneath. Make sure your new condenser/used/oem one has the same mounting points (visually you’ll see this). My 93 condenser looked quite different from the one I picked up from ebay but the mounting points were the same – so I didn’t care.
    13. Put new gaskets on the pipes leading to the condenser. Use gasket #8 for the pipe leading to the receiver/dryer and gasket #6 for the pipe leading to the compressor.
    14. Remove the AC lines at the firewall where you plug in your manifold. Replace both gaskets with gasket #6 (For my car, the ETK indicates to use gasket #7. This was WRONG. Even the dealer didn’t have this right). Re-attach the AC lines.
    15. Remove the AC lines at the compressor. Replace them with gasket #6 for the line leading from the firewall to the compressor and gasket #8 for the line from the compressor to the condenser. 16. Put in your new condenser. Installation was the opposite of removal. Re-attach the AC lines.
    17. Replace the Receiver/Dryer
    a. Whenever you replace any AC component, you must replace the receiver dryer since it has been exposed to air. Do this last as you want to minimize it’s exposure to air.
    b. The Receiver/Dryer is located behind the right headlight. There are two 8mm hex bolts holding it in.
    c. Remove the AC lines first and replace the gaskets with gasket #8 (for both).
    d. Remove the old receiver/dryer and replace with the new one. Re-attach.
    e. Open the plugs on the new receiver/dryer and quickly re-attach the AC lines.
    18. I replaced all my gaskets in the engine bay. I did not go thru the trouble of opening up the dash and removing the expansion valve or the evap. Do whatever you want. You need 4 gasket #6s and 4 gasket #8s.
    19. Re-install/Re-attach everything back. Installation is the opposite of removal.
    20. Re-test leak: repeat step 2. If you’ve done everything correctly, you shouldn’t lose vacuum at all. Congratulations!

  • Christophe Thompson
    Christophe Thompson Jun 01, 2008

    Re-charging procedure:
    1. Make sure there’s enough oil in the vacuum pump.
    2. Turn on the pump, open the red and blue and yellow valves.
    3. Run the pump for at least 30mins! I ran mine for an hour. This will get rid of air of course and any other moisture in the system.
    4. Wear gloves and eye protection.
    5. Wear gloves and eye protection.
    6. Wear gloves and eye protection!
    7. Shut off all valves and then the pump (this may differ depending upon the pump instructions – just follow those). You should read about 30Hg of vacuum.
    8. Connect the can of oil (8.5 oz) to the ref. line on the manifold. Hold it upside-down and open the low valve and the ref. line valve and the valve on the can itself. NEVER charge from the high side.
    9. The system pressure should increase and your can of oil will empty out (almost empty out). Shake it a little bit to “help” it.
    10. Close all valves and remove the oil can from the ref. line.
    11. Turn on the car, turn on the A/C and put the blower on its lowest setting. Let the car idle for 5mins so that pressures equalize thru the entire system.
    12. Turn your blower on hi. Connect a can of refrigerant to the ref. line on the manifold and open its valve. Open the yellow and blue (low side) valves on the manifold. NEVER charge from the high side!
    13. The system pressure will rise and the can will empty out. It will also get very cold!
    14. Check your vents, the air should be getting colder. Good job!
    15. Once the can is empty (shake it if you must), shut all valves and repeat step 12 with the next can. My car used about 7oz of oil and 2.5 cans of ref.
    16. Once done, shut all valves. Turn off the car. Carefully remove the lines. The red line (high side) will have some pressure in it. Keep those goggles and gloves on!
    17. Take the car for a spin, you’re done!

  • Christophe Thompson
    Christophe Thompson Jun 01, 2008

    sorry had to put in a parted comment i hope this helped you



1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

My 1986 300e air conditioner works great, then cuts off. I start he car and it works great and ice cold. Then goes warm. Is it freon?

First your ac comp has a clutch. second r 12 and r134 are NOT compatible if you just "add a pound of r134" you will kill your entire ac system. The O rings, dryer and pressure switches are not interchangeable nether are the lubricants and you WILL burn up your ac comp. Just a word or caution. It is probably the ac speed sensor to detect slip.

Jul 21, 2012 | 1986 Mercedes-Benz 300

1 Answer

We bought this van and it had been sitting for a year. everything checked out ok but the air conditioner will not put out cold air. does the van sitting that long affect the performance of the air...

The coolant used in ACs has very small molecules and no system remains tight enough to prevent loss. You probably only need to recharge it if it has not been opened. You can buy a kit with pressure gauge, coolant, connection hoses and instructions for <$25 US in auto parts stores. Make sure though that your system uses R134 coolant (especially if it is older) otherwise you may need a conversion kit to install first.

Apr 10, 2011 | Ford Freestar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My air conditioner has stopped working. The fan

it shold be under the hood on the fuse box, but the problem could be the low pressure switch you can get a ship gage from the auto parts and see if is low on freon the car take R134 and you can buy it in put it in your selfit shoul run for 20 or 25 dollars,

Jul 30, 2010 | 2004 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Why did the can of R134 freeze when I charged the air conditioner on my 97 Chevy Cavalier? The low side line to my air conditioner (where i hooked up the can of r134) froze as well and my air conditioner...

History?was it working before? you cant just hook up a hose and put it in. First find out why compressor wont run, If it needs compressor, it needs a drier and orifice tube, put on a vaccuum pump for 1 hr then recharged with the correct amount of r134. You need someone who knows a/c to look at it.

Jul 22, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Hello i am trying to put frion for my air

There are 2 plastic caps in the pipeline connected to the air conditioner pump. One has a "L" on it (low side) and the other has a "H" on it (high side). Hope that helps. P.S. we no longer use freon, now we use R134.

Jul 09, 2010 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

2 Answers

Ac not cold replaced compressor

first the a/c system need to be put into a vacuum before you add r134. how much r134 does you system need? too much or too little will both get you warm air. does the compressor come on? air in the system will get you warm air too.

good luck

Jun 25, 2009 | 1990 Chevrolet Suburban

3 Answers

AC is not working

Sounds like the A/C system just needs to be recharged. When was the last time you had this done? Just take it in to your mechanic and he can do it for you and if that's not it for some reason, then he will be able to find the problem but most likely you need more freon added.


May 26, 2009 | 1995 Acura Integra Coupe

1 Answer

Air conditioner not cool

Look at the Low Pressure Side port connector to determine if the system is compatible with R134 refrigerant. If you see quick connect valves, it is R134 compatible and you can continue with the recharge. If you see screw on valves, the system takes R12. Mixing the two may cause serious damage to the system. Let me know if you have any further questions.


Apr 26, 2009 | 2005 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

Air conditioner

You might be losing A/C R134. You can buy a test kit and new R134 at a parts and the tster will tell you how much R134 you have in your system and you can recharge it at the same time if you need it --Good Luck

Jul 19, 2008 | 1993 Honda Civic 4 Door

1 Answer

2001 nissan centra air conditioner

You may have a leak. At higher rpm's a/c compressor works better, that at idle, because it turns alot faster. Your level of R134 may be low in a/c system. Have garage check, how much R134 a you have in there.

Jun 22, 2008 | 2001 Nissan Sentra

Not finding what you are looking for?
1996 Chevrolet Corsica Logo

477 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Chevrolet Experts


Level 3 Expert

77932 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22306 Answers

Ronny Bennett Sr.
Ronny Bennett Sr.

Level 3 Expert

6927 Answers

Are you a Chevrolet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides