Question about Hyundai Excel

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My Getz 1.5 CRDi with 170 000 km timing belt broke and caused damage to the engine. The garage replaced valves, guides, rods, lifters, camshaft and whatever was needed. Since then the engine does not want to run smoothly. Compression test show big diffirence in the cylinder readings and after opening the engine again and replaced items this is still the same but only on some other cylindres. When started it runs smooth for 20 min and theirafter unevenly, It seems to loose tourque after a while. We are just fedup and dont know what to do. can enyone with similar experience please help.

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Without taking out the engine and going through all the tolerances,
i would,bearing in mind the engine has to get hot before you loose power,check the valve/cam clearances,(the obvious first choice).then check the compresions again.the only other thing that comes to mind is valve seats are not ground in.

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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Does this car take a valve lash adjustment and what are the settings


Your car has hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters just means that it uses engine oil to control the valve clearances using a bucket and shim arrangement.
Here's a generic image of what a hydraulic lifter can look like:25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-0.jpg

If the car makes a tapping sound at start up, this points to a problem in the camshaft area - including the hydraulic lifers/shims. Valve clearances are controlled by the lifters and shims. It could also be a worn camshaft - the lobes can become rounded.

Usually, there is no adjustment possible with most hydraulic lifters. Replacement (usually) means you have to remove the camshaft, though I am by no means certain about your particular model.

If you have the tools and ability, remove the rocker cover and have a look at things.

25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-1.jpg The image above shows a camshaft - the lobe is worn and rounded. When this happens valve clearance is excessive and may lead to a tapping noise. Engine efficiency is also affected.

The image below shows hydraulic lifters (example only..).
The lifter on the left has a 'dished' surface - wear caused by the camshaft or the lifter not being able to 'turn' in its bore.
25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-3.jpg The usual cause of this is (a) short trips where the engine hasn't had a chance to warm up properly and pump oil to the camshaft area (b) poor oil/infrequent oil changes (c) stuck lifter.

Before you spend money on parts or repairs, first try adding some oil flush to the engine to clear out carbon and 'sticky' deposits.


25949035-hsh3lir2aljnaf1jzrgt1uh1-5-10.jpg
... follow the instructions on the bottle...
Then change your engine oil and add something like a 'valve train additive' - this will try and quieten the tapping noise.
The (Ebay) link below will give you an idea of what additives are available (and so will your local car accessory shop).

Try the cheapest and easiest first. If that doesn't work .. unless you are confident that you can inspect, diagnose and replace parts .. give a mobile mechanic a call. Those guys are usually quite good.

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Hi. I can give you a simple, but time consuming test to do to check your intermittent compression problem. New hydraulic lifters cause a lot of problems until its settled. Remove the camshafts and the hydraulic lifters. Take each hydraulic lifter and put it in a vice(becarefull not to damage them) and squeeze out all the oil in the lifters. Then put them back and replace camshaft and allign timing marks. Check compression ratio. What happens sometimes is that the oil pressure is too high(stuck oil pressure release valve or cold thick oil) and this causes the oil pressure to put so much pressure on the hydraulic lifters, that it slightly forces the valve open. That will cause your low compression as well as backfire through the intake.

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2 Answers

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The pistons, valves and cylinder walls typically take a beating when the timing belt breaks. If yours didn't, I'm amazed.

But you can TRY this:
For most OHV engines with a timing belt there is usually a hole in the camshaft sprocket that can align with a hole in the head. If there are two camshafts, each sprocket typically has the same arrangement. Look closely, if there is no hole, there will be a mark of some kind to indicate #1 Top Dead Center.
Make certain that the crankshaft and the camshaft(s) are all at #1 TDC, if there are holes in the sprocket(s), push an appropriately sized drill bit through the hole, into the corresponding hole in the head to hold the camshaft timing, then replace the belt, making certain that any idler pulleys or tension adjuster pulleys are out of the way. After you've put the new belt on, Put the idler pulleys and tension adjusters back into their appropriate place then remove whatever you used to hold the pulleys in place.
Most of the time a valve will "kiss" a piston when the timing belt breaks. That causes immediate and fatal damage to the engine requiring (at minimum) a complete engine rebuild. Sometimes valve seats, pistons, cylinder walls and other components are destroyed when the piston and valve collide.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Timing Belt Manual


WARNING Timing belt maintenance is extremely important! The A4 and Passat model utilize an interference-type, non-free-wheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also time-consuming and expensive) engine damage. The recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is at least every 6 years or 60,000-90,000 miles (96,000-144,000 km), depending on vehicle usage and engine type.
NOTE If removed and reinstalled, the timing belt must be installed in the same rotational direction as removed.

VW Passat & Audi A4 1990-2000 Repair Guide
Timing Belt - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

WARNING Do NOT turn the engine or camshaft with the timing belt removed. The pistons will contact the valves and cause internal engine damage.


2.0L (9A, ABA) Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the accessory drive belts, crankshaft pulley and the timing belt cover(s).
  2. Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft to TDC of No. 1 piston. The mark on the camshaft sprocket should be aligned with the mark on the inner timing belt cover or the edge of the cylinder head.
  3. With the distributor cap removed, the rotor should be pointing toward the No. 1 mark on the rim of the distributor housing. On 8 valve engines, the notch on the crankshaft pulley should align with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket.
  4. Loosen the locknut on the tensioner pulley and turn the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the timing belt.
  5. Slide the timing belt from the sprockets
6f72092.jpg

Fig. Adjusting the belt tension on a 2.0L 8 valve

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Fig. Remove the timing belt cover


3736abf.jpg

Fig. Align the timing marks


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Fig. Locate the tensioner


6b4ae08.jpg

Fig. Loosen the tensioner bolt


2b51324.jpg

Fig. Mark the belts direction of rotation


To install:
  1. Check the alignment of the timing marks. On 16-valve engines, the mark on the tooth should align with the mark on the rear belt cover.
  2. Install the new timing belt and tension the belt so it can be twisted 90° at the middle of it's longest section, between the camshaft and intermediate sprockets.
  3. Recheck the alignment of the timing marks and, if correct, turn the engine 2 full revolutions to return to TDC of No. 1 piston. Recheck belt tension and timing marks. Readjust as required. Torque the tensioner nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
  4. Install the belt cover and accessory drive belts.
  5. If the belt is too tight, there will be a growling noise that rises and falls with engine speed.

continue...

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