Question about 2003 Ford Taurus
On my 2000 ford taurus the starting system white/pink line went to the transmission range sensor or(neutral saftey switch), It was the switch that was intermittantly shorting the starting circuit.
Posted on Oct 05, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm curious, does this vehicle have an alarm/remote starter? If so I expect the installer didn't wire it correctly ... it was an all too frequent issue, with inexperienced installers we had .... I would first suspect any add-on device first (if any) ... In answer to your question ... I know it does have a relay (Starter solenoid is a relay and built onto the starter) As far as it being a relay or the IGN switch ... I'm skeptical.
Posted on May 05, 2009
A fuse that is consistently blowing is telling you that there is a short in that system. Don't attempt to bridge it or use a larger amp fuse or you will have a major problem. You will need to start tracing wiring to destinations to find the short. If while moving harnesses around problem ceases to exist, look at nearby items where you are working and try to locate what was grounding. Sometimes people will stop if short disappears, leaving open the possibility of it happening again.
If you are not comfortable working with wiring, then leave it to professionals who do this every day. It's not really difficult but requires patience and a good bit of knowledge to do this right!
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
make sure of two things one is any wires touching at the starter to ground or melted and or is the starter drawing too much amperage causing the fuse to blow.starter may have a dead short in it.
Posted on Aug 16, 2009
Testimonial: "Excellant suggestion. One of the wires was exposed due to rubbing against the brake lines hence the 40 amp. fuse was blowing. This was finally fixed."
There may be several issues causing you problem. One is that you have a bad connection either on the battery or on the starter or even a bad battery cable. I would suggest removing the battery cables, If it's side post a 5/16 wrench or socket. If it's a top post then it's likely to be 7/16 or 10mm. Using a terminal brush clean both the negative and positive terminals. But before reconnecting them, inspect the cables from the battery to their respective connection points. (The starter and the block) Make sure they do not have any broken insulation or dark discolorations in the insulation which represents excessive heat and a weak spot in the cable. Also check and clean the connecting points. Using a socket to remove the ground cable, once removed use a stiff wire brush to clean the surface of the block, then reconnect to the block. Then move to the starter, Using a 5/16 remove the solenoid wires and a 1/2 or 9/16 to remove the battery cable from the starter. Again use a wire brush to clean both surfaces and check the cable ends (eyelets) for a good connection. then reinstall the cables.
I am not sure how they tested your starter, however I have seen several auto parts stores use a diagnostic load machine that checks the starting system without the removal of the starter. If this was the test performed this is not an accurate test for a starter. The Starter will need to be removed, taking the positive cable loose from the battery, then remove the battery cable from the starter with a 1/2 or 9/16 generally socket and a 5/16 generally for the solenoid wire. Once the wires are removed you will have two 9/16(generally) bolts that can be removed with a socket and ratchet. Once the bolts are removed the starter will already be wanting to come out. Remove the starter and take it in to a reputable Auto parts store and ask them to perform a load test. This load test will give you the exact amp draw of the starter and solenoid and then they can tell you if it exceeds the manufactures spec.
Posted on Aug 11, 2010
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