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My truck starts ok.but after it runs for awhile it starts to spit and spudder.It acts like it might not be getting enough gas.when i pull off the road and leave the truck running it idols ok.just when i try to give it gas it doesn't want to go any where.I have tryed stp treatments thinking it might have water in my tank,but this does no help, it will still act up after awhile of running it.Can you help me?
I have a small suggestion, there is a possibility that it may not be a fuel problem at all, what about plugs and wires? when is the last time they were checked or changed
I just incountered the same problem, the fix for me atleast was the ground wire from the motor to the frame it was broken for some odd reason replaced it and all is fine now :)
When was the last time your changed your gas line filter? This is the cheapest to fix first. Also, if it runs ok while cold but when the engine warms up it acts up, it sounds like your ignition coil. They are easy to change out and not very expensive. They tend to go all of a sudden. Hope this helps ya.
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It sounds like your car isn't getting the proper amount of gas. You say your mechanic changed the fuel pump and the regulator. Id have him run a diagnostic tool on it to see if it throws any other codes. Its getting fire. Try changing the FUEL FILTER. it maybe clogged. maybe the pressure regulator is not giving it enough pressure to push the gas into the engine or maybe the fuel pump is only working at times. Does it run good and then start to spit and spudder then die? if so its not getting gas some how. Idk if you can adjust the pressure regulator or not. i mostly work on old school cars.
It sounds like the air bypass valve is not closing after warmup and this sounds like a temperature related problem. Air bypass is used much like the old choke on carburated cars for cold starts.
You may have a bad coil pack. They are located on top of the spark plugs. If a coil pack is bad then if will miss as well as you could loose gas milage and performance.
A good pump and a bad one look identical; problem with the bad one is that after running for a while, it gets hat, begins to bind and then stops. Once cooled down, it will repeat the process. Even when pressure testing, it may "seem" fine but not be., 'till it gets bad enough to show up during testing. Your crank position sensor can act the same way, so can an ignition coil. (internal expansion during heating shows internal shorting.) When in "no start" check for spark. This should separate fuel problem from ignition related stuff. Then, go from there. Do real testing...guessing and replacing parts can cost you a fortune.
This is caused by some sort of fuel restriction within the fuel filter or, it could be a weak or failing pump as well.
I recommend changing the fuel filter and replacing the fuel pump. You can also benefit from replacing the spark plugs and wires. this will improve the performance of this vehicle.
If the engine light is illuminated, it is best to get the codes by running a diagnostic scan soon on the ecm.
Have you tried the ignition module, coil pack, or engine roration sensor. All three are in the rear of the engine and low. Pretty difficult to get to so plan on some time to get them out. just follow the ignition wires to the coil and do the rest by feel. Have Fun
where is my gas filter
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