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Re: stop lamp and cyclops light
If by the "cyclops light" you mean the third brake light, I went to auto zone and purchased 6 ea. part number 858352 instrument panel connectors and added number 194 bulbs to them. All you have to do is pull (gently) on the cover and it will come off. It snaps in place. Twist the bulbs 1/4 turn ccw to remove, insert new assembly and voila, you're in business. The other brake lights are behind the carpet in the trunk. Be sure to remove the correct bulb or you will replace the turn/marker lamp and still have a brake light out. Good Luck.
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Who put the front brakes an wheel hub bearing on the vehicle ? A qualified repair shop ? A friend ? The front brakes an wheel hub would have nothing to do with the brake lights . An the brake light switch is an input to the BCM - body control module .
When the driver presses the brake pedal, the switch contacts open and battery positive voltage is interrupted to the BCM. The BCM then supplies voltage to both the turn/stop lamp supply voltage circuit and trailer rear turn/stop lamp supply voltage circuits. The BCM also supplies voltage to the CHMSL though a dedicated circuit.
I suggest you take it back to who did the front brakes , or a quailfied repair shop .
DTC B3445 00: Stop Lamp Circuit - DO you know what a DTC is ? diagnostic trouble code !
Diagnostic Fault Information
Short to Ground
Short to Voltage
Stop Lamp Supply Voltage
Stop Lamps Inoperative
Stop Lamps Always On
Disconnect the stop lamps and test the individual stop lamp assemblies for internal shorts between all terminals.
? If a short between terminals is found, replace the stop lamp socket or circuit board as applicable.
Test the stop lamp supply voltage circuit for a short to ground.
? If all circuits/connections test normal, replace the BCM.
It is either the switch at the pedal assembly or possibly the rear lighting module....without a wiring diagram in front of me...hard to say....but would go with the switch first due to ease of replacement and cost....then have the light module diagnosed if it does not solve the issue.
and you say 2 fail L/R and center works? is that true. or a typo.... ? if never seen any car wiring go to center then left then right in a daisy chain. most go left , then both seperate path to center and right. in USA, we have LHD cars, not right. side. drive. and RHD cars are wired, backwards. i refuse to do world wide Cobalt market look ups. no country state and all lights is different world wide as are color codes.
ok try on light at a time, put in, take out,move it 3 times. works?
I bet all 3 are dead for brakes. if true. its the brake lamp switch malfing. or cut wires ,due to trailer hitch goons. (hackers)
try to toggle the hazard (emergency lamp switch on top of the steering collumn) on and off rapidly several times.the switch cuts the brake lights out for the 4ways to flash. if the 3rd brake-light still works the fuse is good.if the 4ways work and you cant get the brake lights to work then the multifunction lever has to be replaced which has the hazard switch on it. this is a vary common problem but the steering wheel has to be removed along with some other components behind the wheel which require special tools and knowledge. usually you can get the brake-lights working again by working the button for the 4ways rapidly until the brake lights start working again. good luck.
If the high level brake lamp works and the other 2 lamps have good bulbs, then there is a power loss, most propably with the installation. You should go to an auto electrician to see where the break is.
If someone has recently done any work on the electrics, you should recheck. It is not a seperate fusable power supply system or brake switch for the high level brake lamp, it will take its power from the fused system that the other 2 have.
Hope this helps