An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: engine gasket problem
VW admitted that there was a problem with the gaskets, and would pay for part of the replacement cost. This program seems to have expired, however. One thing that seems to help is a yearly coolant change, something that every water-cooled Vanagon owner should have done.
This is a very Real problem, But its can be avoided. Turns out that the coolant that we use here in the U.S. was different then in Europe. The bus would be shipped here with factory euro coolant from the factory. We drive the bus for a few yrs and change the coolant. ( now U.S. cooant) then, the phosphates in the U.S. coolant eats and pits the aluminum heads and there ya go. To avoid problems with your water cooled vanagon. All you need to do is make sure you use Phosphate free Antifreeze. Like Dexcool. There are lots of phosphate free ones out now. Hope this helps :)
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
this is from a boiling engine
It is because the coolant is subject to excessive heat probably from head gasket or cracked head, inoperative cooling fans, blocked radiator cores or flaked fins on the radiator core. The initial problem may be from a coolant leak that dropped the coolant level.to a dangerous level.
I think that you should go to an accredited specialist shop that works on your make vehicle as I think that you may be led up the garden path if you stay with that shop. White smoke can be lean mixture or water but I would suggest a compression test done to check for a head gasket/ cracked head problem before I would consider an engine . I would also run the fault codes to check for EGR valve problems as these are subject to failure around your mileage.
The oil light is the oil pressure warning light. When it flickers, it means the oil pressure is trying to build up, but can't maintain good pressure. It may be critically low which can cause engine damage. Have a mechanic hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge to get the true oil pressure. If it's good, replace the oil pressure sender unit on the engine block. If it's too low, it may be a problem in the oil pickup tube and screen in the crankcase, clogged oil passages in the engine, a worn oil pump, oil too thick from wrong weight oil, worn crankshaft bearings, a failed pickup tube gasket or oil pump gasket. It would require some investigation to find the problem. But get the true oil pressure reading first, then you'll know if it's a problem or not. Is it the engine or the starter dragging? For your sake, you should hope it is the starter. Good luck, Cliff.
I can't speak to a possible design fault in that particular engine, but if what you say is true then you might find your best solution at AutoRX.com they market an industrial strength (their words) crack sealer that appears to deliver some pretty impressive results courtesy of a video and customer comments This may be the solution you are looking for.
Honestly, I've never heard of such a thing. If the gaskets are replaced and the engine is cleaned out and the fluids are changed, there shouldnt be any long term problems. If theres no damage now, there wont be any after its fixed. I would highly recommend getting a second opinion before you commit to anything. A small piece of advise though, if you decide to replace the intake gaskets, you may want to go ahead and replace the head gaskets as well. It's not much extra work to do it once the intake is off, and you wont have to worry about a head gasket letting go after everything else is done.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR until this problem is fixed! You could destroy the engine.
Many GM V6 engines of 1995-1999 had defective Upper Intake Manifold (UIM) gaskets (this is especially true for 3800 V6 engines). The antifreeze/coolant (especially orange DEX-Cool) will deteriorate the gasket material over time. If there are abnormal exhaust noises accompanying the leak, and/or the oil appears cloudy (check this immediately), you may have a blown head gasket or Lower Intake Manifold (LIM) gasket. Start with the UIM gasket.
The repair is detailed in the Haynes manual for that car ($17 at NAPA and Carquest), and (DIY) will take 5-8 hours plus a new gasket and RTV sealant (parts should be under $40 for all). A shop will charge $250-350 for this job.