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Re: car stoped moving
There is the chance of yes and there is that chance of no
the axle if seized in the pumpkin i call it yes the car wont move
axles are balanced so that the car runs smooth if car stopped moving then the axle siezed up
if the nut came off you put a new nut on with one of those fast clips i forgot what there called but there is a little hole drilled on axle to keep nut from moving and it looks like a bobby pin can slide in there but thats not what the certain pin is called
you can move the car a little bit without nut in slow idle 2 miles per hour you dont want to stress axle any further than whats been stressed
not stable to drive until replacement nut is put in its place
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remove axle nut, remove lower ball joint nut, pop drive shaft loose with punch or wood dowel , pop lower ball join from knuckle pull up push axle out of knuckle , pull back knuckle and tie in place pop out axle with big screwdriver or pry bar ,remove seal replace.
remove the right front wheel. remove the axle nut. remove the ball joint bolt and nut. remove the ball joint from the knuckle. drive the axle out of the hub. remove the 2 carrier bearing nuts. pull the axle out. make sure you torque all bolts and nuts.
Jack it up and block it in place so it doesn't move (put the blocks under the K-frame mount) Tip... loos-ten the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground so the wheel doesn't move. Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the axle retaining nut. With a dead blow hammer or a piece of wood held against the axle end, hit the end of the axle to push it out of the hole. you won't be able to remove it completely just yet. remove the lower ball joint nut and separate the joint from the spindle. Now you should be able to swing the whole works out of the way and pull the axle out of the bearing. From the back side you should be able to see the bolts that hold the bearing in place. Don't forget to clean and grease everything while you have it apart. I hope this will steer you in the right direction. If you need exploded diagrams of the parts, your local parts store should have that all on their computers.
first jack up side you will be working on and place jjackstand under the frame, next remove the wheel,to make it easier remove the caliper and tie away, dont remove the brake hose!, then remove the rotor it slides off you may need to tap backside with a hammer, next is to remove the bolt and nut from the lower balljoint, then use balljiont tool to saperate the lower control arm from spindle, you may need a pry bar to pull down on control arm to completly separte move spindle to side and let arm up, next remove the axle (cv) nut on the front, then use pry bar to pop out of trany, install new axle hold straight and slide into tray as far as you can then with nut on the axle a little tap to axle in to trany the rest of the way you will feel it go in and lock and then reverse direction to put back together, hope this helps.
Specifically for 2003 Tiburon V6 6 speed, but may work for you as well. -Loosen tire lugs -Remove center caps with screw driver or similar tool (careful not to scratch caps) -loosen axle nut
-Jack the car up and place on jack stands -Chalk rear wheels -finish removing tire lug nuts and tire -remove cotter pin and finish removing axle nut -remove brake pads -remove caliper and brake assembly -remove rotor (possible PITA), use extreme caution hammering a stuck rotor!
IMPORTANT STEP: *remove 2 bolts from strut mount assembly. This will allow you enough clearance to "cleanly" pull axle out with minimal force/hammering. No axle puller tool necessary and no messing with the lower ball joint.
-Now gently tap the axle out of the hub assembly -pull the rest of the axle out of the hub assembly by hand or pry with long screw driver or pickle fork. Again, since you removed the 2 strut assembly bolts, your hub assembly should have dropped down and away from the axle quit a bit to allow you enough clearance to remove axle from hub assembly
**Follow next steps for DRIVER SIDE ONLY** -Next, place a fluid pan to catch any leaking trans fluid before removing axle from transmission side. -Using a long screwdriver or pickle fork, pry the axle away from the transmission -Remove entire axle and replace with new one -Installation is reverse of removal steps. (not difficult, just line up the splines and everything should "pop" in place
this is quite a simple task. you need to remove the wheel, the axle nut (outside end of axle, center of rotor), and the lower ball joint. when the ball joint is seperated, you can swing the whole steering assembly to the side. tap on the end of the axle, being careful not to damage the threads, and pull out of the steering knuckle assembly. to remove the axle from the transmission, you should be able to pull it out. if it is stubborn, use a prybar to pry it out. installation is reverse of disassembly. when reassembling, you need to torque the axle nut properly. sorry! but i do not have that spec on hand, it does sometimes come in the new axle box. they are aproximately 170 ft lbs. hope this is helpful, and good luck!
Jack up driver's side wheel,remove wheel,remove brake caliper,remove
rotor,remove large hub retaining nut,move hub out of the way,sometimes
need to remove upper control arm bushing,remove CV axle assembly
Removing the rear-mounted alternator on early 1990s Civics and CRX can
be frustrating. After removing the upper adjusting bracket bolt and the
lower pivot bolt, the alternator can *almost* come out the top and
almost fits behind the intake manifold.
The only easy exit path is out the left wheel well. Side access
requires removing the wheel and unfastening three of the plastic
retainers holding the upper end of the splash guard. But even this
doesn't provide quite enough room. You need to tuck the alternator back
under the intake, unbolt the lower alternator bracket (two bolts, 14mm
socket) before the alternator can be removed.