Question about 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Normally, the fan will not spin at the same RPM as the engine. This is
the purpose of the fan clutch. On the fan clutch sits a little thermal
spring that engages the clutch to spin the fan at the same rpm as the
motor when the motor gets hotter than normal.
Being able to hold onto the fan while the motor is running, is normal (not recommended, but normal).
You can test the clutch by heating it and then trying to spin the fan while the motor is off. If it is still easy to spin, you could have a bad fan clutch, or you didn't heat it enough. It is kind of a crappy way to test.
You not having cooling issues leads me to guess that your clutch is alright. But I don't know what type of climate you live it, nor do I know in what condition your clutch is.
They can actually be difficult to replace. Easy theory, but actually doing the job may be harder than you think. They are threaded onto the water pump pulley (just one big threaded stud). To remove you need to either be really crafty, or you need a wrench designed to hold the pulley in place while you loosen the clutch and fan assembly. No, the pulley drive belt is not enough to keep the pulley from turning (it will either slip or you will turn the crank of the motor).
Usually they are on there pretty tight! When I replaced my water pump on my truck, I could not remove the fand and clutch from the water pump while in the truck (I had to remove my radiator shroud and remove it all in one piece) then I had to weld the old water pump impeller to the casting to keep it from spinning then broke it loose with a 2ft breaker bar! Seriously.
Once you get the old one off, remove the fan and bolt it to your new clutch unit. Then thread it on the water pump.
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
take out the door padding
unscrew the glass from the panel
take the glass support kit out
remove the motor and replace it.
NOTE : MAKE SURE THE WIRE DOESNT TRIP OFF THE PULLY.
Posted on Mar 03, 2010
Alternative Method - Radiator Removal
Fig. 14: Use a piece of wire or another suitable device to support the condenser before removal of the radiator
Fig. 15: Remove the front bolt on the suspension support arm
Fig. 16: Loosen the rear suspension support arm bolt and swing the arm down out of the way
Fig. 17: Remove the wire harness retaining clips from the radiator support bar
Fig. 18: Remove the retaining clips on the radiator support bar for the splash shield
Fig. 19: Remove the four bolts on each side (only three shown in the photo) for the radiator support bar and . . .
Fig. 20: . . . remove the support bar.
Fig. 21: Carefully lower the radiator out the bottom of the engine compartment
NOTE: When adding coolant, it is very important to use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL® , which is an orange colored, silicate free coolant. If silicated coolant is used on these vehicles, premature engine, heater core and/or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner, at 30,000 miles (50,000km) or 24 months.
Posted on Aug 13, 2010
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